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My clutch is perfectly smooth to the floor in the mornings and seems to be rougher as the day heats up. I live in the DFW area and the mornings are in the 80s, the clutch is perfect. If I drive it in the hot afternoons ( in the 100s ), it feels a bit rough. I've had my LT headers on for about a year. I've changed the fluid to Brembo 5.1 The clutch seems to be working, no slips. Is there something else that heat can be affecting? Anything else it could be?
My clutch is perfectly smooth to the floor in the mornings and seems to be rougher as the day heats up. I live in the DFW area and the mornings are in the 80s, the clutch is perfect. If I drive it in the hot afternoons ( in the 100s ), it feels a bit rough. I've had my LT headers on for about a year. I've changed the fluid to Brembo 5.1 The clutch seems to be working, no slips. Is there something else that heat can be affecting? Anything else it could be?
Exhaust heat might affect the clutch fluid line that runs between the slave and clutch master cylinder. Make sure the clutch line is insulated and away from the header as much as possible.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; Jul 8, 2018 at 01:30 PM.
Could the damage already be done? If the bearing is bad and I have to replace it, I imagine with 70K miles on the car it would be a good idea to replace the clutch at the same time, correct?
Could the damage already be done? If the bearing is bad and I have to replace it, I imagine with 70K miles on the car it would be a good idea to replace the clutch at the same time, correct?
It could be ok, but with the complexity and cost of getting in there, it would be prudent to replace the clutch, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts (they are a one-time use), pressure plate bolts (although many builders will reuse these), slave cylinder (that comes with a new throwout bearing), get a metal throwout bearing retainer (quartermaster makes a quality, affordable piece) as well as a clutch remote bleeder (Katech seems to have the best) and to resurface the flywheel.
obviously new fluid as well.
One could argue that at this point a new master master cylinder would be a good idea as they are known to fail as well. I did all of the above excepting the master and wish that I would have.
And be very aware of the making the connection between the new slave and the master. There is a cool quick-connect like fitting but many (most? All?) have issues getting them to actually fully seat because the new fitting on the slave is distorted. You have to push them together extremely hard if you can get it at all.
After tryng for a good 20 minutes (with the motor out so I had good access) I gave up and just swapped the fitting off of my old slave’s line. (I made a little post/thread about it)
I had the same issue getting the old master with the new slave. Once I had a new slave and new master, it went together no issues. Not sure why but just a heads up you may have to swap the end off the old slave to the new one in order to get it back together.
Thanks all. This repair is a bit over my skill level and I don't have a lift so I'll be getting it done. I'll make sure all these issues are addressed. After I get a new clutch, master and slave cylinder, I shouldn't have anymore heat problems, is that correct?