When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello, just signed up to the forum but im sure ill be a regular soon. I own a company called Vaydor Bodykits, I make a kit that turns a G35 Infiniti into an exotic lookin thing. My next design will be on a C6 chassis so I have been buyin up a few donor cars for builds and am learning the problems associated with them. I was introduced to the " column lock" problem on an 05 already and now I need assistance on an 07. I bought an 07 out of auction in Texas with no key. I have a really good key guy/programmer friend but the problem is that the FOB reader is not reading the new FOB. There is no power to the FOB reader. Does anyone here know what fuse or relay or source powers the Fob reader??? Cant seem to find info in a web search. Thanks in advance and nice to meet everyone. Thanks, matt
Hello, just signed up to the forum but im sure ill be a regular soon. I own a company called Vaydor Bodykits, I make a kit that turns a G35 Infiniti into an exotic lookin thing. My next design will be on a C6 chassis so I have been buyin up a few donor cars for builds and am learning the problems associated with them. I was introduced to the " column lock" problem on an 05 already and now I need assistance on an 07. I bought an 07 out of auction in Texas with no key. I have a really good key guy/programmer friend but the problem is that the FOB reader is not reading the new FOB. There is no power to the FOB reader. Does anyone here know what fuse or relay or source powers the Fob reader??? Cant seem to find info in a web search. Thanks in advance and nice to meet everyone. Thanks, matt
You're best bet is to buy a service manual, since this is just the first of many questions you'll have and quite often the answers you'd get here have only limited accuracy. I'd suggest a 2008 manual, which is about the mid-point of the C6 volume. You'll still find information that's not exactly correct for an '08, but generally speaking, it'll cover most aspects of the C6 production run for the info you'd need to know.
BTW, your question is not real clear. I can only assume you bought a FOB that is blank (never been used) and you have no physical key that fits the key cylinder in the back. I'm guessing the car is a manual and a window was left down or broken to allow entry for shipping purposes and you have confirmed the car's battery is sufficient to operate other items. Look in either the '05 or '07 owners manuals for the procedure to initialize a new FOB. You might find it here using RCDLR or lost FOB as a search term. If you have no owners manual, go to https://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...07corvette.pdf
You're best bet is to buy a service manual, since this is just the first of many questions you'll have and quite often the answers you'd get here have only limited accuracy. I'd suggest a 2008 manual, which is about the mid-point of the C6 volume. You'll still find information that's not exactly correct for an '08, but generally speaking, it'll cover most aspects of the C6 production run for the info you'd need to know.
BTW, your question is not real clear. I can only assume you bought a FOB that is blank (never been used) and you have no physical key that fits the key cylinder in the back. I'm guessing the car is a manual and a window was left down or broken to allow entry for shipping purposes and you have confirmed the car's battery is sufficient to operate other items. Look in either the '05 or '07 owners manuals for the procedure to initialize a new FOB. You might find it here using RCDLR or lost FOB as a search term. If you have no owners manual, go to https://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...07corvette.pdf
Best of luck to you in your new venture.
Thanks, yes the battery is fully charged. yes the drivers window is broken but a key was first cut for the hatch lock. I understand that is the correct process. My lock guy is very knowledgeable also has the correct computer scanner to tell him the problem was in the FOB reader. I unplugged the reader and tested the wires.....no power...so im tryin to find out what powers it so I can replace it. like a fuse, relay or what. Thanks for your help.
You're best bet is to buy a service manual, since this is just the first of many questions you'll have and quite often the answers you'd get here have only limited accuracy. I'd suggest a 2008 manual, which is about the mid-point of the C6 volume. You'll still find information that's not exactly correct for an '08, but generally speaking, it'll cover most aspects of the C6 production run for the info you'd need to know.
BTW, your question is not real clear. I can only assume you bought a FOB that is blank (never been used) and you have no physical key that fits the key cylinder in the back. I'm guessing the car is a manual and a window was left down or broken to allow entry for shipping purposes and you have confirmed the car's battery is sufficient to operate other items. Look in either the '05 or '07 owners manuals for the procedure to initialize a new FOB. You might find it here using RCDLR or lost FOB as a search term. If you have no owners manual, go to https://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...07corvette.pdf
Best of luck to you in your new venture.
To clarify, a new key was cut for the hatch and a new FOB was in the process of being programed but the car will not recognize the new FOB. Everything led us to the actual FOB reader in the glove box not working.
Hello, just signed up to the forum but im sure ill be a regular soon. I own a company called Vaydor Bodykits, I make a kit that turns a G35 Infiniti into an exotic lookin thing.
I first saw this kit about a year ago...I have to admit it looks really nice. Interested to see what you do with the C6 platform (and the added HP that comes with it).
I first saw this kit about a year ago...I have to admit it looks really nice. Interested to see what you do with the C6 platform (and the added HP that comes with it).
This is the current situation with some bad photoshop. Go easy on the hate guys
To clarify, a new key was cut for the hatch and a new FOB was in the process of being programed but the car will not recognize the new FOB. Everything led us to the actual FOB reader in the glove box not working.
You are confusing the issue or are confusing yourself by referring to the backup keyless antenna in the glove box as a reader. Although there is a slot that you can put a fob in, it's primary function is to be used when the fob battery is dead or missing. Which brings up another thought that a fob with the battery inserted upside down won't communicate either, so double check that.
The actual order of events to start the engine with a properly working validated fob in the passenger compartment is: A6 trans in park and brake pedal depressed, then press the start button. The RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) will send a low frequency challenge to the fob. If the fobs replies with a valid response and the security requirement is met, then the engine will start. However, a properly functioning and correctly initialized fob, should be able to unlock doors or the hatch in the active mode by pressing the appropriate button on the fob. The chances of having a problem with the new fob or the initialization process is far greater than a problem with the RCDLR.
You can check fuse 11 (15A) in the underhood fuse box if you think that'd help, but unless this was a flood car (hopefully not) there's no reason for it to have failed.
I hope your fob guy understands he has to do the long process to initialize the fob as a primary source.
You are confusing the issue or are confusing yourself by referring to the backup keyless antenna in the glove box as a reader. Although there is a slot that you can put a fob in, it's primary function is to be used when the fob battery is dead or missing. Which brings up another thought that a fob with the battery inserted upside down won't communicate either, so double check that.
The actual order of events to start the engine with a properly working validated fob in the passenger compartment is: A6 trans in park and brake pedal depressed, then press the start button. The RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) will send a low frequency challenge to the fob. If the fobs replies with a valid response and the security requirement is met, then the engine will start. However, a properly functioning and correctly initialized fob, should be able to unlock doors or the hatch in the active mode by pressing the appropriate button on the fob. The chances of having a problem with the new fob or the initialization process is far greater than a problem with the RCDLR.
You can check fuse 11 (15A) in the underhood fuse box if you think that'd help, but unless this was a flood car (hopefully not) there's no reason for it to have failed.
I hope your fob guy understands he has to do the long process to initialize the fob as a primary source.
Yes we understand there is a half an hour process broken up into 10 min sections to program the FOB. The slot it the glove box is the last step in the process. usually at the end of the cycle you insert the FOB into the slot.....the car reads it...then you can start it. The problem is the slot.....it has a little reader dohicky inside it that has a 2 wire plug...…..its getting no power....it needs power to work....Thanks, matt
You are confusing the issue or are confusing yourself by referring to the backup keyless antenna in the glove box as a reader. Although there is a slot that you can put a fob in, it's primary function is to be used when the fob battery is dead or missing. Which brings up another thought that a fob with the battery inserted upside down won't communicate either, so double check that.
The actual order of events to start the engine with a properly working validated fob in the passenger compartment is: A6 trans in park and brake pedal depressed, then press the start button. The RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) will send a low frequency challenge to the fob. If the fobs replies with a valid response and the security requirement is met, then the engine will start. However, a properly functioning and correctly initialized fob, should be able to unlock doors or the hatch in the active mode by pressing the appropriate button on the fob. The chances of having a problem with the new fob or the initialization process is far greater than a problem with the RCDLR.
You can check fuse 11 (15A) in the underhood fuse box if you think that'd help, but unless this was a flood car (hopefully not) there's no reason for it to have failed.
I hope your fob guy understands he has to do the long process to initialize the fob as a primary source.
We have also tried 2 different NEW FOBS and changed batteries in them to make sure. The car was scanned and it told us the glove box reader isn't doing its job.
I guess my '08 service manual info doesn't work for your '07, since there is no wiring schematic or info showing anything called a glove box reader. Sorry.
I guess my '08 service manual info doesn't work for your '07, since there is no wiring schematic or info showing anything called a glove box reader. Sorry.
Ill take a pic of it tomorro and post it. you can tell me what it is then.
May be a long shot, but I believe the maximum fobs that can be programmed is (4) fobs...so maybe the car is maxed out, and can't/wont accept your new fobs (without wiping some out).
Would help to know your location, since the rear Key cylinder above the rear licenses can not be used to put the car into Fob relearn mode on a export C6.
The module that the car uses for the Fob is the RCDLR.
So on a Export car, you need to use SPS to program a New fob into the RCDLR.
Hence you start with a Tech II and go to Fob relearn, but at some point in export fob relearn with the tech II, the tech II will tell you to connect it to the computer that is running Tis2000 so it can use TIS2000 SPS to learn the new fob into the RCDLR on a export C6. If you have TDS with a MDI, use tech2 win to start with, or you can just use SPS directly isntead.
Also to note, the Fobs come in USA models (315MHz) and export models (416Mhz). Some export cars still use the 315mhz fob, while some use the 416mhz fob instead. To figure out what one your car needs if a export model, go into BCM set up, and check to see that the BCM is set country wise, and make sure that the RCDLR is firmware flashed for that country as well.
If you replace the RCDLR, then will need to use SPS to marry it to the car next. Hence BCM, ECM, RCDLR and a few other modules have to be using the Same GM seciurity code number so the will communicate together. So any swaps of these modules from another car, or new units, will require SPS to remarry the modules so they are all using the same GM secuirty code number. In most causes, you need to do a SPS firmware flash, which will marry the module to the rest via the firmware vin # programming.
As for the fuse for RCDLR, it in the passenger foot well as the SDM fuse on the BCM, and the ground from the RCDLR goes to slice block SP208 first, then the ground wire out of SP208 to the chassis ground.
Also to note, you have two relays on the back of the BCM, and if the Run crank relay is bad, your not going to get any power out of the BCM as well.
Look wise I like it, but don't see any venting for the brake ducts in the rear for the rear brakes unless the are part of the side skirts lower rear ducts, and guessing that the back wing is fixed, isntead of active to be used for braking as well.
Really, has the body been air tunnel tested for function, or is this kit more of a form over functioning instead?
I guess my '08 service manual info doesn't work for your '07, since there is no wiring schematic or info showing anything called a glove box reader. Sorry.
Look wise I like it, but don't see any venting for the brake ducts in the rear for the rear brakes unless the are part of the side skirts lower rear ducts, and guessing that the back wing is fixed, isntead of active to be used for braking as well.
Really, has the body been air tunnel tested for function, or is this kit more of a form over functioning instead?
Yes the rocker is a rear brake duck. Wind tunnel tested????/ haha... negative... how many bodykits are wind tunnel tested? You realize its a kit car right, its not meant to be a new supercar. That is the misconception about my first kit, its just something that looks cool some will love it some will hate it. But this is not a conversation about the kit its a convo about the reader. Thanks for your feedback.
One more thing guys.....We know how to program the FOB, we know what FOB to use, my key guy has done a LARGE number of this exact model and year car. The problem again is that the reader is getting no power ( the reader/sensor is probly fine). I just need to know what powers it so I can track it down and fix it.
Would help to know your location, since the rear Key cylinder above the rear licenses can not be used to put the car into Fob relearn mode on a export C6.
The module that the car uses for the Fob is the RCDLR.
So on a Export car, you need to use SPS to program a New fob into the RCDLR.
Hence you start with a Tech II and go to Fob relearn, but at some point in export fob relearn with the tech II, the tech II will tell you to connect it to the computer that is running Tis2000 so it can use TIS2000 SPS to learn the new fob into the RCDLR on a export C6. If you have TDS with a MDI, use tech2 win to start with, or you can just use SPS directly isntead.
Also to note, the Fobs come in USA models (315MHz) and export models (416Mhz). Some export cars still use the 315mhz fob, while some use the 416mhz fob instead. To figure out what one your car needs if a export model, go into BCM set up, and check to see that the BCM is set country wise, and make sure that the RCDLR is firmware flashed for that country as well.
If you replace the RCDLR, then will need to use SPS to marry it to the car next. Hence BCM, ECM, RCDLR and a few other modules have to be using the Same GM seciurity code number so the will communicate together. So any swaps of these modules from another car, or new units, will require SPS to remarry the modules so they are all using the same GM secuirty code number. In most causes, you need to do a SPS firmware flash, which will marry the module to the rest via the firmware vin # programming.
As for the fuse for RCDLR, it in the passenger foot well as the SDM fuse on the BCM, and the ground from the RCDLR goes to slice block SP208 first, then the ground wire out of SP208 to the chassis ground.
Also to note, you have two relays on the back of the BCM, and if the Run crank relay is bad, your not going to get any power out of the BCM as well.
That is the RCDLR antenna (one for the glove box slot is the back up antenna, and it wired directly off the RCDLR in the dash above the radio on the OG/OG-BK wires.
So could be a problem with the connectors/wires from the RCDLR to that antenna, or could be a problem in the RCDLR instead/it not getting any power.
Again, power to the RCDLR from the BCM, and the ground wire from the RCDLR goes to SP208, then the ground wire out of the SP208 goes to the chassis ground on that side of the car.
So a quick check of the RCDLR connector to make sure it getting power, and the ground wire is going to ground would be the first check.
Wind tunnel tested????/ haha... negative... how many bodykits are wind tunnel tested? You realize its a kit car right, its not meant to be a new supercar. That is the misconception about my first kit, its just something that looks cool some will love it some will hate it.
Only ask, since your kitting a C6 chassis/drive line that can do 200MPH, so one would think that you would want to wind tunnel and road course test the car at top speeds to make sure it not going to have any handling or other problems when pushed to such speeds.
Hence it not like like you pimping a 4 cylinder gm Fiero, where your lucky if you can get it to 120 mph down a hill and with a tail wind behind it as well.
Key fob reader
