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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 10:00 AM
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Default Spark plugs

Hi everyone
im looking for a spark plug recommendation

Let me start out by saying, yes! I’ve used the search button and found tons of posts on spark plugs. But that being said.... I haven’t found an answer

My car is 07 base supercharged, full exhaust, cam, , forged flat top pistons,meth injection, fuel system etc. should be knocking on the door of 700whp.

Fired it up on the base “drive ability” tune from my tuner and have been fighting my service charging system light ever sinc. Voltage at idle is all over the place. Don’t matter if it’s hot or cold from 11.8 to 14.3

battery is brand new, replaced the alternator checked the wires and terminals at the starter everything clean, tight, terminals are solid also.
I installed the Br7ef plugs. (Brand new and gapped then to .030) I’m thinking that this is my problem. After reading the other posts and even seeing GMs service bulletin about aftermarket plugs I want to try changing them...... But what do I change them to? In most of the other posts everyone says NGK-tr6 but people have issues with those as well
I would like to try the stock ls9 plugs 41-104 but I’m thinking that is going to be to hot of a plug for 700wheel
i would love to just tell the tuner to turn off the code but My voltage is low, interior lights will dim so I know I got to fix it.
does anyone have any suggestions or experience on what plugs I can use
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 10:11 AM
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Oh and one other thing, I’m not sure if this will effect what heat range spark plugs I need. This car is driven on the street only, mainly cruising with a pull or 2. It will never be put on a circuit track. I may go to a test n tune night at the drag strip once or twice.
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 11:04 AM
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As you have figured out, the oem spark plugs are resitor type, and have a high resitance to both them, and the spark plug wires to prevent RF noise feed back through the coils to the ECM, which the ECM controlling the output voltage of the alternator. The worse the ECM RF noise, the lower the alternator voltage out put will be.

As for checking alternator output voltage, use the rear terminal of it under the rubber boot as the positive source for the meter, and the body of the alternator as your negative source. The voltage out put of the alternator with the motor cold and A/C off so the radiator fan is not running, and driving lights off, should be 14.7 volts.

Now lets touch on after market parts on the car, and even if the voltage is 14.7 volts to start with, if you a dual fan set up , and even drawing more power for other items like HP fuel pumps, this could be putting a strain on the OEM alternator that it can not keep up instead. Also may be using an under drive HB, this is spinning the alternator slower at idle, and going to cause problems as well.
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 11:16 AM
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On my 2008 S/C LS3, I have been using NGK TR7IX #3690 gapped at .032 for years with no issues. They are two steps colder than stock LS3 and I replace them once a year.

Last edited by Mike's LS3; Sep 1, 2018 at 11:21 AM.
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Judge387
Hi everyone
im looking for a spark plug recommendation

Let me start out by saying, yes! I’ve used the search button and found tons of posts on spark plugs. But that being said.... I haven’t found an answer

My car is 07 base supercharged, full exhaust, cam, , forged flat top pistons,meth injection, fuel system etc. should be knocking on the door of 700whp.

Fired it up on the base “drive ability” tune from my tuner and have been fighting my service charging system light ever sinc. Voltage at idle is all over the place. Don’t matter if it’s hot or cold from 11.8 to 14.3

battery is brand new, replaced the alternator checked the wires and terminals at the starter everything clean, tight, terminals are solid also.
I installed the Br7ef plugs. (Brand new and gapped then to .030) I’m thinking that this is my problem. After reading the other posts and even seeing GMs service bulletin about aftermarket plugs I want to try changing them...... But what do I change them to? In most of the other posts everyone says NGK-tr6 but people have issues with those as well
I would like to try the stock ls9 plugs 41-104 but I’m thinking that is going to be to hot of a plug for 700wheel
i would love to just tell the tuner to turn off the code but My voltage is low, interior lights will dim so I know I got to fix it.
does anyone have any suggestions or experience on what plugs I can use
the stock LS9-ZR1 iridium plugs with stock .032 gap will be perfect.been running in mine for past 3 years with never an issue at same power level as you.make sure number 1 plug wire is not resting on alternator wire.Correction-checked a couple plugs a few days ago and gap was at .028 and not what I had told shop to install at. At .028 the plugs were a nice light tan color and I will leave them like that

Last edited by irok; Sep 7, 2018 at 09:40 AM.
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 05:38 PM
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Use the AC Delco 41-110 plugs if you want to find something that works with no issues. If you want to keep chasing gremlins, install a set of NGK TR6's. Same heat range. Just a crap shoot whether they will work or not. They haven't worked for me. Yeah, they are cheap....
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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 10:10 PM
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Guys I appreciate the replies.
I ended up taking the alternator wire and standing it straight up. The service charging system warning is still on but the voltage fluctuation seemed to settle down quite a bit. I had it idling for about 40 minutes today with the headlights on blower on high and voltage was hanging out in the mid 13s it would bounce around a little but a lot better. When temp got around 200 and the fan really started working voltage dropped to the low 13s and would dip into the high 12s but then come back to low 13s

for now im going to leave it, until the tunner is done with it. From my understanding he should be able to adjust the idle charging characteristics. So we will see what happens. My appointment is set up for the end of the week I’ll keep you posted
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Judge387
Guys I appreciate the replies.
I ended up taking the alternator wire and standing it straight up. The service charging system warning is still on but the voltage fluctuation seemed to settle down quite a bit. I had it idling for about 40 minutes today with the headlights on blower on high and voltage was hanging out in the mid 13s it would bounce around a little but a lot better. When temp got around 200 and the fan really started working voltage dropped to the low 13s and would dip into the high 12s but then come back to low 13s

for now im going to leave it, until the tunner is done with it. From my understanding he should be able to adjust the idle charging characteristics. So we will see what happens. My appointment is set up for the end of the week I’ll keep you posted
change the plugs first so you don't have issues during your tune
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by old motorhead
Use the AC Delco 41-110 plugs if you want to find something that works with no issues. If you want to keep chasing gremlins, install a set of NGK TR6's. Same heat range. Just a crap shoot whether they will work or not. They haven't worked for me. Yeah, they are cheap....
Too hot of a plug with 700 HP! Whichever plug works for him, he needs to be two steps colder than stock. NGK IX7 are iridium and have a projected tip like the stock plugs, but two steps colder.

I agree with Irok, put in fresh plugs before tune to prevent KR and issues during the tune.

Last edited by Mike's LS3; Sep 2, 2018 at 12:53 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 01:00 PM
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Brisk Silver GR14S. Running them from 600 to 1000 rwhp. Expensive but no issues and last forever.
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike's LS3
Too hot of a plug with 700 HP! Whichever plug works for him, he needs to be two steps colder than stock. NGK IX7 are iridium and have a projected tip like the stock plugs, but two steps colder.

I agree with Irok, put in fresh plugs before tune to prevent KR and issues during the tune.
Is that where the whole problem comes from? The NGKs with the copper cores or what ever,switching back to an iridium plug should take care of it? I’m understanding that the problem is with RFI but I just don’t enderstand how/why. Do I need just to put an iridium plug back in? Or just a protruded tip plug back in? Or do I need to get away from NGK plugs all together? I’ll buy what ever but I don’t wanna just be randomly buying sets of spark plugs and not have them fix my issue you know.
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Judge387


Is that where the whole problem comes from? The NGKs with the copper cores or what ever,switching back to an iridium plug should take care of it? I’m understanding that the problem is with RFI but I just don’t enderstand how/why. Do I need just to put an iridium plug back in? Or just a protruded tip plug back in? Or do I need to get away from NGK plugs all together? I’ll buy what ever but I don’t wanna just be randomly buying sets of spark plugs and not have them fix my issue you know.
lots have had issues with NGK and their copper cores and some haven't.GM warrantied that very pricey ZR1 engine for 5 years with the factory iridium plug.use the cheapest plugs you can find if thats what you want.
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Judge387


Is that where the whole problem comes from? The NGKs with the copper cores or what ever,switching back to an iridium plug should take care of it? I’m understanding that the problem is with RFI but I just don’t enderstand how/why. Do I need just to put an iridium plug back in? Or just a protruded tip plug back in? Or do I need to get away from NGK plugs all together? I’ll buy what ever but I don’t wanna just be randomly buying sets of spark plugs and not have them fix my issue you know.
I have used both copper core and iridium NGK plugs with no issues. I use the oem ignition wires and always use resistor type plugs. Projected tips stay cleaner and iridium plugs tend to last longer. Why others have RFI issues is a mystery to me?

Last edited by Mike's LS3; Sep 3, 2018 at 12:53 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 03:19 PM
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I don’t know either, it’s really frustrating though. I just spent $70 on the IX7s and still have the damn charging system message on my dash. I really don’t know what else to do.
Im just bringing it to the tuner a day early and telling him to do what ever he wants, try and fix it, disable the damn code I really don’t care at this point lol
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