Recently upgraded from our C5 to a C6, the C5 street braking far exceeded braking on our C6. Both cars were purchased used, the C5 had 49,000 miles the C6 has 23,000 miles. No idea if any of the previous owners did any changes to the pads or brake system.

Okay that said, if we assume the C6 has original equipment pads, rotors, etc,. what would you suggest to improve the braking on the C6? I would classify it as a daily driver, it will not be tracked.

Not looking to spend BIG bucks for any high end equipment just looking to improve the braking without the dust. My 2018 Dodge Challenger GT has far better braking than the C6 with all OEM.

Thanks,

 

nothing wrong with your brakes, they're just different than what you're used to. Drive it a while and see what you think of it. I'll bet that it stops every time you put pressure on that brake pedal.

 

Start by changing the pads the previous owner may have put an inadequate ceramic pad on. Take a look at the Carbotech 1521 pad low dust performance street pad.

.The Carbotech Bobcat 1521™ is our high performance street compound that is our most successful compound. The Bobcat compound is known for its awesome release and modulation, along with unmatched rotor friendliness. Like our AX™ & XP™ line of compounds, Bobcat 1521™ is a Ceramic based friction material offering minimal rotor damage and non-corrosive dust. Bobcat 1521™ offers outstanding performance, even when cold, low dusting and low noise with an excellent initial bite. This compound’s virtually perfect linear torque production provides incredible braking force without ABS intervention. Bobcat 1521™ operating range starts out at ambient and goes up to 900°F. Bobcat 1521™ is suitable for ALL street cars, perfect for your tow vehicle, police cruiser. The Bobcat 1521™ compound has been found to last two-three times longer than OE pads you can purchase at a dealership or national retailer. That’s one of the beauties of Carbotech Ceramic brake compounds. Bobcat 1521™ is NOT recommended for any track use.

If interested I will be happy to help you out you can order online at http://ampdautosport.com/brake-pads/corvette/ use promo code z28 at check out for the forum discount or all me at 216-780-8825.

Part numbers
F:CT731 $148 Less 5%
R:CT732 $128 Less 5%

 

I like Hawk HSP pads, a little more pedal pressure, but better stopping, very low dust, very quiet, and very easy on the rotors.

 

Your C6 should be braking exactly the same or better than your C5. They share many brake components.

May want to take a look at your fluid to make sure it doesn't need replacement or you may have air in the lines. You will also want to look at the pads. Could be the cheapest ceramic pad available on there and isn't doing the job.

 

Starting point is power bleeding the brakes, including cycling the ABS pump to get the old fluid out, and replace with new fluid (should be done every 2 years).

As for brakes with fresh fluid, they are only going to be good as the grip of the tires on the car.
Hence should always be able to lock the brakes up to the point that the ABS kicks in always, and then a mater of the grip of the tires amount before you get into the ABS system as they no longer hold during braking.

Hence fresh fluid, and pads that have more bite, are only going to get you into the ABS system with less pedal pressure, if the tires are ***** to begin with.

 

Thanks all for your inputs.

We did just have the brake fluid flushed, little or no change before or after. I'm now suspecting the pads so after it's long winter's nap I'll change the pads.

This C6 does not stop anywhere near as good as our C5 did. The C5 could put you through the windshield when stopping versus the C6 where you need a lot of pressure on the brake pedal to stop. Guess we've setting our expectation that the 6 would stop as well or better than our 5. As I said earlier, our 2018 Challenger GT (base model w/all wheel drive) stops a hell of a lot better than the C6.

 

Just slap on some ZO6 brakes...and 5 point harnesses.

 

Year of vet would help, but guessing either the base ceramic pads, or someone swapped in a set of cheap ceramic pads isntead.

Also, if the old owner was one of those guys that rode the brakes for blocks to come to a stop, could be the rotor may need to be faced/light turning to clean up any hot spot areas in the rotor surfaces as well.

Myself, would pull the pads to get an idea of what they are to start with/if new pads where needed,
take a look at the rotors to see if maybe time to pull them for a light turning,
and then do a final check of the system to make sure all the air is out of the lines. Hence have someone pump up the brakes via the brake pedal and hold pressure on it, and one by one at the calipers, crack the bleeder valve open and close it before the brake pedal hits the fire wall. This will make sure that the last of the air bubbles that may have been clinging during the power bleed, are now bleed out.

At this point, you should be able to lock the brake up with moderate pressure to kick the ABS into play, and from there, just a mater of tire with more traction, to hold the road before they loose traction to kick the ABS system in.

Now Ir you do have cheap ceramic pads in play (weak initial bite, and very little feed back)/seem that you are having to use a lot of pedal pressure to get into the ABS system, then something like either the OEM HD, or the Carbotech Bobcat 1521™ pads would be the way to go for street driving. Hence these pads have way more initial bite and feed back than the cheap low dusting ceramic pads isntead (will put the base oem base pads, as well as the durst Golds in the latter category with not much initial bite or feed back).

I tend to favor the OEM HD pads since they have a higher temp working range (still bite very well stone cold as well), but the draw back is they are aggressive pads with dusting, and only last 30K instead. Also to point out, run very sticky summer performance tires on the car, and they get changed around every 4 years as the rubber harden on them and they start to feel greased even after they have been warmed up. So yes, I can seat beat bruise someone over in the passenger seat, since the car will come down this hard with such.

Hence even with ZR1 brakes on the car, if the tires are *****, the braking is going to be weak since it all boils back to how much grip the tires have to stop the car in the first place (you just get into the ABS system with less pedal pressure isntead).

So since it sounds like you are having to use more pedal pressure than normal not only to stop, but to get into the abs system, would suspect that the pads in play, are the problem to start with.

 

Soft pads will grab more than harder pads.

But it sounds like the pads may be glazed too. This can happen if they were not properly bedded when installed. You might be able to break the glaze on the pads with sand paper to rough up the pads, then sand paper the rotors to remove any old pad material and potentially any light hard spots. Ideally resurfacing them would be best if there is enough thickness (minimum is stamped on the side of the rotors). Then properly re-bed the pads. I would use aluminum oxide wet/dry sand paper, 120 grit and clean thoroughly before reassembly.

 

If your mopar stops faster than the C6 then you have a problem !
Even new Stock oem pads and stock rotors should out perform the heavy 4200lb mopar all day .

 

 

second that. flex hone the rotors before bedding new pads. a good way to compare braking performance is to bring the car up to certain speed (gps), stomp the pedal and see at what distance the abs brings the car to a stop.

 

x2
Get a good quality OEM type pad on there, deglaze/cut your rotors and bleed youll change your mind