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C6 NPP header choice?

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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 12:33 PM
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Default C6 NPP header choice?

Hello all, new owner of a z51 packaged ls3 m/t vert. I am looking at longtube headers for the car without getting rid of the NPP system. What options do i have as far as max hp? I would like to retain cats please advice...goal is a 500+whp setup with bolt ons and a cam setup for now.


Also i plan on installing myself.

thank you
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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 04:21 PM
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ARH, Kooks, LG, TxSpeed, etc, etc. Use their headers and mid pipes (either catted or not) and they will connect to your NPP mufflers. It's a bolt together proposition. There was a change between '08 and '09. As long as you account for that, it should go together just fine.
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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by old motorhead
ARH, Kooks, LG, TxSpeed, etc, etc. Use their headers and mid pipes (either catted or not) and they will connect to your NPP mufflers. It's a bolt together proposition. There was a change between '08 and '09. As long as you account for that, it should go together just fine.

thank you! As far as o2 sensors go, how many do we have in the ls3 setup? Also will i get a cel?
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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by HKLS3Vette
thank you! As far as o2 sensors go, how many do we have in the ls3 setup? Also will i get a cel?
There are 4 O2 sensors. You will need a tune to delete the rear O2 sensors after the LT header install or you will get the dreaded CEL eventually.
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Old Jan 11, 2019 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by HKLS3Vette
Hello all, new owner of a z51 packaged ls3 m/t vert. I am looking at longtube headers for the car without getting rid of the NPP system. What options do i have as far as max hp? I would like to retain cats please advice...goal is a 500+whp setup with bolt ons and a cam setup for now.


Also i plan on installing myself.

thank you

i have a set of JBA LT ceramic coated headers and X.pipe on my C6 Z. You dont need to worry about losing the NPP functionality unless you remove the vacuum hose attached to the rear of the manifold. As far as cats go??? Hmmmm there may be an X-pipe mounted cat setup put there but retaining stock cats? not so much w long tubes just FYI. I know everyone LOVES kooks but ill tell you what after running my car for more than an hour, turning her off, i wait around 40 seconds i repeat 40 seconds and I am able to touch the headers without getting burned. Dont get what i am saying wrong. Its still hot but not hot enough to leave sking on the header.



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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 11:07 AM
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I had ceramic coated Hinson Headers with an H pipe and high flow cats. Easy install to my bi mode retrofit.
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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 11:40 AM
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500 whp is going to be tough N/A, assuming you want to keep it civilized enough for street duty. You don't mention the year of the car (guessing '08 or '09), the State you live in, or who's dyno you'll be using, since that'll make a difference.
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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by HKLS3Vette
Hello all, new owner of a z51 packaged ls3 m/t vert. I am looking at longtube headers for the car without getting rid of the NPP system. What options do i have as far as max hp? I would like to retain cats please advice...goal is a 500+whp setup with bolt ons and a cam setup for now.


Also i plan on installing myself.

thank you
None of the header/x-pipe systems on the market will affect your NPP functionality, since you will retain the stock over-axle pipes and mufflers. As stated already, you will simply need to make sure that you obtain the right x-pipe for your cars model year and engine, since there was a change to the tailpipe/muffler system connection point in 2009, and the Z cars have 3” tailpipes/mufflers vs. 2.5” on the LS3 cars.
By far the easiest header install I ever did was when I installed 2” Kooks on my car a few months back. I didn’t even have to remove the starter or raise the engine, and the 2-piece X-pipe made it easier to install and align the whole system, which I did by myself. The Kooks even come with fancy Stage-8 locking bolts for the flange and collectors. I didn’t even have to use the O2 sensor extensions, because I’ve deleted the rear O2 sensors. Kooks locates their upstream O2 sensors on the top of the collector, so the factory wires reach without any extension. The only minor complaint that I have with the Kooks is that the collector rests against the trans cooler lines on my car, which is an A6 car, but I’ve just wrapped the lines with insulation and I didn’t see any trans temperature increase. But since your car is a M6, you don’t have to worry about that. The ARHs, may make a little more power, according to some folks, but they also cost significantly more than the kooks. If you’re doing the install yourself, I would highly recommend the Kooks.
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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
500 whp is going to be tough N/A, assuming you want to keep it civilized enough for street duty. You don't mention the year of the car (guessing '08 or '09), the State you live in, or who's dyno you'll be using, since that'll make a difference.
I agree with HOXXOH. It Can be done and have by many others. IMO If you want 500rwhp or more you will have to do something with the heads whether you get the stockers ported or go with aftermarket heads. I have a 11 GS, 6spd manual, ARH (gutted cats), TSP CNC Ported Stock heads, BTR stage 3 ls3 cam, AFE CAI, Ported TB, B&B fusion exhaust. I made only 503rwhp on a dynocom dyno great tune it drives good to me. Just depends on how well the mods work together.
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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jaybee924
I agree with HOXXOH. It Can be done and have by many others. IMO If you want 500rwhp or more you will have to do something with the heads whether you get the stockers ported or go with aftermarket heads. I have a 11 GS, 6spd manual, ARH (gutted cats), TSP CNC Ported Stock heads, BTR stage 3 ls3 cam, AFE CAI, Ported TB, B&B fusion exhaust. I made only 503rwhp on a dynocom dyno great tune it drives good to me. Just depends on how well the mods work together.
Sounds like a nice combo you have there. “Only” 503whp is still impressive, lol. I agree that to get past 500whp you need ported or aftermarket heads and a pretty healthy cam.
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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by CI GS


Sounds like a nice combo you have there. “Only” 503whp is still impressive, lol. I agree that to get past 500whp you need ported or aftermarket heads and a pretty healthy cam.
Sorry didn't mean the 503 weak it runs very strong. An end up getting 470 rwtq. But the statement about the American Racing Headers costing more is not accurate. But you just have to find either ARH and KooKs on sale. Right now a vendor RDP have a code md12d https://www.rdpstore.com/
I priced catted setups for both ARH and Kooks with that code.
Kooks catted just over $1800
ARH catted just over $1600
Good luck with whatever you decide and have fun.
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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 05:56 PM
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I just installed a set of American Racing headers and catted X-pipe on my 2011 Grand Sport. I also have the NPP exhaust and everything bolted right up. The headers are coated in Swaintech White Lightning and this coating is very impressive. Much less valvetrain noise at idle than uncoated headers or even normal ceramic coated headers. Underhood temps seem even better than my C5 Z06 that had ARH's with silver cermic coating. Car sounds only slightly louder at idle and highway cruising but comes alive at WOT especially as the butterfly valves open up. I also have a custom Diablew tune. Not sure how much power I picked up but I would guess at least 20 to 30 RWHP.

It would be nice to get to 500 RWHP but I would need a significant cam upgrade but don't think the car would be as comfortable to drive. I might get my stock heads ported in the future by Advanced Induction and run a .040 Cometic head gasket for 11:1 compression and tighter quench. Maybe add a set of 1.8 ratio full roller rockers for good measure.
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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 12:23 PM
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If your looking for a great set of headers at a great price check out our TPS Motorsports 1-7/8" headers for only $999 shipped to your door. If your looking for other brands such as ARH, Kooks, or B&B we can give you a great deal also. PLUS we offer 0% financing for our headers for up to 1 year

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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
500 whp is going to be tough N/A, assuming you want to keep it civilized enough for street duty. You don't mention the year of the car (guessing '08 or '09), the State you live in, or who's dyno you'll be using, since that'll make a difference.
not sure what you mean by 500whp is hard? Its a ls3 6spd manual. Heads are untouched, possibly BTR stage3/4 cam with supporting mods/bolt ons/tune and underdrive pulley. Many members here have hit 510 plus whp so i know its a good number to target.
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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 01:02 PM
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Thanks for your response. My build is looking similar to your setup. If i go catless will i have any issues? Such as fumes etc?

Originally Posted by jaybee924
Sorry didn't mean the 503 weak it runs very strong. An end up getting 470 rwtq. But the statement about the American Racing Headers costing more is not accurate. But you just have to find either ARH and KooKs on sale. Right now a vendor RDP have a code md12d https://www.rdpstore.com/
I priced catted setups for both ARH and Kooks with that code.
Kooks catted just over $1800
ARH catted just over $1600
Good luck with whatever you decide and have fun.
Reply
Old Jan 17, 2019 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by HKLS3Vette
Thanks for your response. My build is looking similar to your setup. If i go catless will i have any issues? Such as fumes etc?
Originally Posted by HKLS3Vette
not sure what you mean by 500whp is hard? Its a ls3 6spd manual. Heads are untouched, possibly BTR stage3/4 cam with supporting mods/bolt ons/tune and underdrive pulley. Many members here have hit 510 plus whp so i know its a good number to target.
I'm sorry I missed a letter. I meant 500+ rwhp (at the rear wheels on a dyno), that in a manual car should be at 560 hp at the crank adding the 12% drivetrain loss but we will leave that at that cause I'm sure that's one we could go on forever about. Lol Catless is your preference I didn't want to go catless but a tuner jacked up the tune (it got very hot under there) and the car had issues and I had to make a call. From your question about smell/ issues. No issues. As far as smell when sitting still or at idle I may get a small whip of the smell but it's not over bearing to me. I also have the B&B Fusion exhaust if I feel like it's too bad I'll close the valves. It's more than one way to skin a cat. LoL But I will say no two cars or two tuners are the same. You can do the same exact setup you could make more or less. My new tuner said headers, CAI and BTR stage 3 ls3 cam he normally sees about 465rwhp on his dyno. Now that's not counting my 10%UD Pulley and the ported heads but I'm sure you see the picture now or where it's going. I've had the rpms low and it still drives pretty good. Just require a little more clutch and a little more gas. Hope that answer your questions.
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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by HKLS3Vette


not sure what you mean by 500whp is hard? Its a ls3 6spd manual. Heads are untouched, possibly BTR stage3/4 cam with supporting mods/bolt ons/tune and underdrive pulley. Many members here have hit 510 plus whp so i know its a good number to target.
I based that on the LS3 internal mod performance list, where only a couple M6 cars were able to have their best runs in the 10's that weren't cars owned by a tuner shop. If 500whp was easy, there'd be a whole lot of cars running 10's. In addition, a stage 4 cam is not exactly what I'd consider civilized for normal street duty and they don't work well with stock LS3 heads. A stage 3 is on the ragged edge without head work.
Of course, you can find a loose dyno and let the operator know what kind of number you want and he can accommodate your request, but it won't make your car any faster.
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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 11:15 PM
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There are many variables in the drag strip and running 10s. If it was so easy to launch and get the timing right many folks here would be running 10s. I had an auto DSM that broke into 10s after many attempts and running 12s and more seat time. It took many hours of practice to get my launches and timing correct in an awd auto car, and i doubt its any easier in a corvette.







Originally Posted by HOXXOH
I based that on the LS3 internal mod performance list, where only a couple M6 cars were able to have their best runs in the 10's that weren't cars owned by a tuner shop. If 500whp was easy, there'd be a whole lot of cars running 10's. In addition, a stage 4 cam is not exactly what I'd consider civilized for normal street duty and they don't work well with stock LS3 heads. A stage 3 is on the ragged edge without head work.
Of course, you can find a loose dyno and let the operator know what kind of number you want and he can accommodate your request, but it won't make your car any faster.


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Old Jan 18, 2019 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dj_or_dj



i have a set of JBA LT ceramic coated headers and X.pipe on my C6 Z. You dont need to worry about losing the NPP functionality unless you remove the vacuum hose attached to the rear of the manifold. As far as cats go??? Hmmmm there may be an X-pipe mounted cat setup put there but retaining stock cats? not so much w long tubes just FYI. I know everyone LOVES kooks but ill tell you what after running my car for more than an hour, turning her off, i wait around 40 seconds i repeat 40 seconds and I am able to touch the headers without getting burned. Dont get what i am saying wrong. Its still hot but not hot enough to leave sking on the header.



another vote for JBA Headers. excellent fit, no issues w/ground clearance and VERY affordable. Ceramic coated, w/catted X-pipe for under 1k. and yeah, touchable in a matter of minutes. under hood heat after shutdown not an issue. hope this helps...
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Old May 6, 2019 | 02:37 PM
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Hi....reaching out for opinions/info.......I have an NA 2011 G.S./ 6M/AR headers & x-pipe/NPP mufflers/intake shroud/MGW short shift/
Would an underdrive pulley be worthwhile ? Whose pulleys are good? Where can I find used/ take offs? thank you
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