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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 03:09 PM
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Default Start issue

I have a '13 GS Automatic with around 20,000 miles on it that's having a battery/start problem. I'm pretty sure I'm having a parasitic issue causing my battery to drain over a couple days or so. So I made sure to put the tender on. It's been on a couple weeks and I thought I'd go for a drive. I took the tender off. Drivers door opened normally, foot on brake, HERE'S THE WIERD PART, I push the start button, slow crank click click ( finger is off the button ) a couple seconds, slow crank click click, couple seconds slow crank click click. No start. Weird the engine try's to turn over without pushing the button. The battery is a new yellow top and it checks out okay.
I tried again and the engine slow cranked a few revolutions then started. I drove around 30 minutes or so and shut it down at home. I tried to start right away and back to very slow crank and no start.
Thanks for any feedback!
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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 05:40 PM
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Probably defective battery. Optimas are crap since company was sold some years back.
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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 05:48 PM
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Yeah, I returned a red top that was junk, but had to either get another or go to the yellow. Thought I'd try the yellow top since it's deep cycle. I'll try a different battery and see what happens.
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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 05:53 PM
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How old is battery? Original change it The new batterys no matter who you buy them from when they get to there due date give problems. A plate inside the battery at any time could fail so a load check with the battery out of your vehicle if fairly new will tell you if its the battery is terminated. Johnson controls a major battery maker moved to China a few years back and the industry is going back wards. Also when buying a battery look for the product date, if none you do not want it! I suggest carrying a battery pack in your car they are about $100.00 and can provide a simple jump start if you get stranded .
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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 06:00 PM
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I returned a new battery for the one I have now. Yes, I have one of those battery packs and are great. I actually used it and it got me started, so maybe the obvious is the battery. Hard to believe new 2 battery's are defective. Same manufacturer 1 red top Optima and the current yellow top.
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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 10:13 PM
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I’ve bought an new GMC Yukon Denali, had to take it out of the showroom straight to service to replace the battery. My daughter’s 2 year old Yukon Denali had the battery replaced so based on some of the analogies here all ac delco batteries are junk. I’ve had absolutely no problems with my Optima batteries.
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Old Jan 7, 2019 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by saplumr
I’ve bought an new GMC Yukon Denali, had to take it out of the showroom straight to service to replace the battery. My daughter’s 2 year old Yukon Denali had the battery replaced so based on some of the analogies here all ac delco batteries are junk. I’ve had absolutely no problems with my Optima batteries.
That gives me a little peace of mind as far as the battery. Regardless I'm going to take the Optima in tomorrow to be tested.
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 03:22 PM
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I have a 2005 manual and I had this problem. Turned out to be the dreaded column lock issue. The column lock relay triggered and stopped any voltage from getting to the starter. Accessory would work but the car would not crank. There is a TSB on the fix if that turns out to be the issue for you.
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 08:53 PM
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A deep cycle battery isn't for starting purposes. Those are designed to be slowly discharged over a longer period of time, like a house battery for a camper or boat. You need to stay with starting batteries which I guess is the red top if you stay with optima. GM also makes or carries an AGM starting battery, but there are others too. The AGM's are more expensive but you don't have to worry about acid/water levels in the battery and they don't leak. You can mount them on their side if you wanted (not recommended though).
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Old Aug 22, 2019 | 10:15 PM
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FWIW I had the same problem this summer in my '05. Turned out that the harmonic balancer was set (or had traveled) back toward the block, just enough that it caused the alternator to not be able to recharge the battery. Only took $4k, 1 dealer, 2 mechanic shops and finally 1 guru to diagnose.

Might be worth checking at least.

Dan
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