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That’s what I was figuring. Looking at exhaust and stuff now and a good intake. Get all that done and tune it. See where it’s at. Don’t get me wrong the car runs good. Just figure it should break loose the tires a little
TC button to the left of the shifter. Start the car, hold the TC button down for 5 seconds, and should get a DIC message that all nannies are off.
In this mode, using the gas pedal like an on/off switch will end up with the back tires breaking free from a dead stop, which will lead to rear wheel hop if you don't get back out off the pedal before the back end starts to hop, and will result in the rear diff case exploding into pieces.
TC button to the left of the shifter. Start the car, hold the TC button down for 5 seconds, and should get a DIC message that all nannies are off.
In this mode, using the gas pedal like an on/off switch will end up with the back tires breaking free from a dead stop, which will lead to rear wheel hop if you don't get back out off the pedal before the back end starts to hop, and will result in the rear diff case exploding into pieces.
Have done it and it just takes off. No spin or anything Not saying I want my car t break lose the tires and stuff. I am saying it doesn’t fee like it is getting all the power to the grind a little dead on the bottom end I guess
Have done it and it just takes off. No spin or anything Not saying I want my car t break lose the tires and stuff. I am saying it doesn’t fee like it is getting all the power to the grind a little dead on the bottom end I guess
Pull your Maf sensor and clean it with MAF sensor cleaner. When the Maf sensor gets dirty, it does not allow the engine to have the snap/grunt off bottom end is should have since the ECM does not see the correct air flow through the intake. Also, check the air filter, since it may time to replace it as well (will cause low RPM problem with even a clean Maf sensor reading correctly at low air flows).
Maybe this question has already been answered. If there is lag built into the car from the factory, should we then tune the transmission (only) for the rest responsiveness. It seems that a lot of the conversations are pointing to the transmissions as the bottleneck.
With that, is there a DIY, non-dyno method of tuning the transmission in a C6 Vette?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
2019 C6 of Year Winner (track prepared)
Originally Posted by gpruitt54
Maybe this question has already been answered. If there is lag built into the car from the factory, should we then tune the transmission (only) for the rest responsiveness. It seems that a lot of the conversations are pointing to the transmissions as the bottleneck.
With that, is there a DIY, non-dyno method of tuning the transmission in a C6 Vette?
Tuning the transmission will do absolutely nothing to make the car more responsive from a dead start. I explained the underlying cause in post #3 of this thread.
When you floor it the PCM expects to see a rush of incoming air and with it, engine knock. In something of a "preemptive strike" to protect the motor from getting hurt it pulls a ton of timing out which is why it feels like such a slug. The car will actually launch noticeably harder if you don't completely floor it.
The good news however is that it can be tuned out by a competent tuner.
Ok. And guessing it will tune the transmission not to shift so fast and early also. Thank you
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
2019 C6 of Year Winner (track prepared)
Originally Posted by southofHoustonVette
Ok. And guessing it will tune the transmission not to shift so fast and early also. Thank you
This is an example of what I'm talking about in a scan from my friend's 2010 C6 at the track. While the car is being staged the timing is 32 degrees (the white line on the graph) but the minute he floors it (shown by the green line), the timing drops by almost 20 degrees down to 12.5 which is a pretty sizeable decrease.
I've actually seen more extreme cases where the timing will actually go negative right when it's floored.
This is an example of what I'm talking about in a scan from my friend's 2010 C6 at the track. While the car is being staged the timing is 32 degrees (the white line on the graph) but the minute he floors it (shown by the green line), the timing drops by almost 20 degrees down to 12.5 which is a pretty sizeable decrease.
I've actually seen more extreme cases where the timing will actually go negative right when it's floored.
Gotcha. So easing into the throttle and gov By it more as it goes will be better then a full on na it from a dead stop
The OP has a 2010 base model with A6 trans .... I don't believe they had the Z51 option in 2010, so he has the 2.56 axle ratio.
Had his car been a 2010 GS with the A6, he would automatically get the 2.73 axle ratio ... part of the Z16 performance package that all 2010-2013 GS (A6) have.
The OP has a 2010 base model with A6 trans .... I don't believe they had the Z51 option in 2010, so he has the 2.56 axle ratio.
Had his car been a 2010 GS with the A6, he would automatically get the 2.73 axle ratio ... part of the Z16 performance package that all 2010-2013 GS (A6) have.
Subfloor is spot on, as he always is. He knows more about these cars than most GM trained techs, IMV. Pretty sure what you’re experiencing is the burst knock table pulling a shitload of timing when you nail the throttle to WOT. GM tunes the car like that from the factory to make sure that with the tall factory gearing and tight converter, it doesn’t knock on take off, especially with lower octane fuel.
My A6 GS was the same way with the factory tune - a real dog if you nailed it from a dead stop, even with the traction control disabled. Even after I added headers my car was like that, until I had a remote tune done. That woke it up nicely. After that, I added a converter and a Z06 3.42:1 diff, had it retuned, and then I couldn’t get it to hook for ****. If you want it to really spin tires, that’s the way to go. Even without changing the gearing, a good converter and a tune will turn your car into a instant tire fryer. As a first step, just get it retuned by a competent tuner - one who knows how to tune A6s. You will love your car after that.
Subfloor is spot on, as he always is. He knows more about these cars than most GM trained techs, IMV. Pretty sure what you’re experiencing is the burst knock table pulling a shitload of timing when you nail the throttle to WOT. GM tunes the car like that from the factory to make sure that with the tall factory gearing and tight converter, it doesn’t knock on take off, especially with lower octane fuel.
My A6 GS was the same way with the factory tune - a real dog if you nailed it from a dead stop, even with the traction control disabled. Even after I added headers my car was like that, until I had a remote tune done. That woke it up nicely. After that, I added a converter and a Z06 3.42:1 diff, had it retuned, and then I couldn’t get it to hook for ****. If you want it to really spin tires, that’s the way to go. Even without changing the gearing, a good converter and a tune will turn your car into a instant tire fryer. As a first step, just get it retuned by a competent tuner - one who knows how to tune A6s. You will love your car after that.
You mentioned a "remote tune". What is that? Are you referring to a tune done with one of those hand-held devices?
A good part of the launch is learning how to drive it, like Subfloor mentions. After the first 10 passes, totally bone stock including factory RF's and 60' times between 2.18 and 2.03, I finally managed a 1.99 and a 12.41 @ 117.
Learning to launch the A6 is just as important as learning to launch a M6. They both require good foot control.
Beware of "feel good" tunes. Hard, fast, and harsh shifts are not the answer to real performance. While chirping the tires sounds cool, it's not nearly as quick.
A higher stall converter will do more for your launch than anything under $1K.
A good part of the launch is learning how to drive it, like Subfloor mentions. After the first 10 passes, totally bone stock including factory RF's and 60' times between 2.18 and 2.03, I finally managed a 1.99 and a 12.41 @ 117.
Learning to launch the A6 is just as important as learning to launch a M6. They both require good foot control.
Beware of "feel good" tunes. Hard, fast, and harsh shifts are not the answer to real performance. While chirping the tires sounds cool, it's not nearly as quick.
A higher stall converter will do more for your launch than anything under $1K.
For sure. Thank you so much all for the information shared. I will be getting a tune and some exhaust work done in the next couple months
