C6 Z06 clutch issues
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
C6 Z06 clutch issues
Having some weird clutch issues with the Z06 I recently bought. When putting the car into gear with the clutch pushed to the floor the car will not shift into gear. With the clutch released 1/4-1/2” the car goes into any gear with ease. When engaged in gear it is very difficult to get the car out of gear with the clutch fully depressed but again moves with ease when the clutch is 1/4-1/2” from the floor. Not to mention once I’m in gear the clutch seems to slip in all gears above 1/2 throttle. Any thoughts? I assume I need a clutch due to slip but the weird not engaging with clutch fully depressed has me stumped. 07 with 35k miles.
Anyone experience something similar or have any ideas?
Thanks
Anyone experience something similar or have any ideas?
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 381
Likes: 58
From: Pittsburgh PA
Sounds like a worn / dead clutch and throwout bearing. I think that's what causes the inability to shift / notchy shifting. You'll want to make sure your clutch fluid is clean as well, i'm sure with a new setup you will give the whole system a once over and be good.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 175
Likes: 32
From: Virginia Beach
Monster LT1-S, new GM Slave with Monster Billet Bearing support, remote bleeder and new GM updated Master Cylinder. Should be around $1300 in parts. Got all mine from Tick Performance. Mine had same issue as yours
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Now that I've come to terms the fact that I need a new clutch... I've been considering pulling the motor instead of going through removing the rear cradle, torque tube, etc etc. Maybe a few more things to disconnect but I much rather not be on my back pulling out the driveline. Can anyone speak to both methods?
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 175
Likes: 32
From: Virginia Beach
You can have rear cradle and torque tube out in under a few hours if you've never done it. Much easier. Youll have to disconnect brake lines in rear and bleed after but it's much easier than yanking the motor.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 392
From: Atlanta - - - - - Save the manuals
IMHO, If you are going to do it yourself it is far easier to drop the rear cradle having done it twice myself. However, you will have to lower the front cradle (about an inch) to get at the top bolts of the bell housing.
No matter how you decide to do it, be sure to replace everything (ie. flywheel, clutch disc, slave (w/ bleeder), pressure plate, bolts, etc.)
No matter how you decide to do it, be sure to replace everything (ie. flywheel, clutch disc, slave (w/ bleeder), pressure plate, bolts, etc.)
Last edited by Dutch08; Jun 11, 2020 at 04:09 PM.
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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Problem, would dare to guess that either tick master was installed and not adjusted correctly (over throwing the TB) to start with.
Since the clutch is slipping, then time to pull the drive line to replace the entire clutch system to start with, and if a Tick (tilton) master cylinder is in play, it needs to be adjusted correctly so it not over throwing the TB bearing forward with a full pedal push.
Hence tilton master cyclinder is wider ID than stock OEM cylinder, so will push more fluid with same amount of pedal push. So when adjusting the tilton master cylinder at the pedal, you have to add in some free pedal play at the top of stroke on the pedal adjustment, so at bottom of stroke/pedal to the floor, it not over driving the TB too far forward against the pressure plate finger springs(to bend them).
Since the clutch is slipping, then time to pull the drive line to replace the entire clutch system to start with, and if a Tick (tilton) master cylinder is in play, it needs to be adjusted correctly so it not over throwing the TB bearing forward with a full pedal push.
Hence tilton master cyclinder is wider ID than stock OEM cylinder, so will push more fluid with same amount of pedal push. So when adjusting the tilton master cylinder at the pedal, you have to add in some free pedal play at the top of stroke on the pedal adjustment, so at bottom of stroke/pedal to the floor, it not over driving the TB too far forward against the pressure plate finger springs(to bend them).
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 42
From: California
Any updates on what you found on disassembly?
Did you make any changes immediately prior to having these issues?
My guess is that Dano hit the nail on the head, looking forward to what you found though
Did you make any changes immediately prior to having these issues?
My guess is that Dano hit the nail on the head, looking forward to what you found though