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2 inch header guys.
What are you guys doing for a high torque starter?
Backstory: Heads, Cam, High compression and E85 build and 2" headers. Car starts fine when cold, and hot starts is fine if started immediately (within 5 min) of shutdown. But if the car sits for an extended amount of time but is still hot, it starts very slow and often starts in a limp low voltage mode. Where the cluster is dead and it has a ton of ABS/Stability lights on.
New starter, New battery, has no real issues with oil pressure or anything of that sorts, Connections seem to be fine/tight.
It's possible that the starter I have is very susceptible to heat soak. I'm looking to replace but I have heard that the MSD Red High Torque has clearance issues with 2" headers.
I have my starter heat wrapped and the wires that feed it also, have had no issues but then again I went over board on the heat wrap, I used stuff that is good up to 2200 degrees and have had no issues for 2 years. Often checking the starter connections every time I'm under the car.
Forgot to mention that my headers are also heat wrapped as well.
Last edited by GS Corvette; Feb 19, 2020 at 12:15 PM.
Check the lug on starter many times the plastic it toast resulting in a loose connection as the lug can move around by hand. Check Rock Auto they may have some new and improved starters for the car. The stock starter is pretty small and works pretty good as the one guy said you may have to do some insulating.
Last edited by double06; Feb 20, 2020 at 04:28 PM.
I had the exact same symptoms. It turned out being The crank position sensor. It was too close to the reluctor wheel . I replaced it and made a gasket to space it out some and problem went away.
If the factory starter is ok size wise must high torque starters are smaller diameter and shorter I’m running 13 to 1 on E with the Powermaster p# 9509 it clocks to any position needed, no problems with Kooks or ARH I’ve had both. A friend is using the MSD red hts with same 13 to 1 compression ls7 combo and he likes it by the way.
I was having slow starts with a perfectly good very low miles OE starter my tuner hate it he said get a starter then call me cause every time he changed something was thrown off by the extra fuel slow starts when calibrating starting and idle.
Either way another deficiency shows up starting a high compression high performance engine is the solenoid wire going to the push start switch, the connection itself becomes inadequate I found going to a heavy duty loop end takes care of the electrical issue see picture.
I made it removable but is best not to just remove whatever end is there now and using factory wire just change to heavy duty loop end.
If the factory starter is ok size wise must high torque starters are smaller diameter and shorter I’m running 13 to 1 on E with the Powermaster p# 9509 it clocks to any position needed, no problems with Kooks or ARH I’ve had both. A friend is using the MSD red hts with same 13 to 1 compression ls7 combo and he likes it by the way.
I was having slow starts with a perfectly good very low miles OE starter my tuner hate it he said get a starter then call me cause every time he changed something was thrown off by the extra fuel slow starts when calibrating starting and idle.
Either way another deficiency shows up starting a high compression high performance engine is the solenoid wire going to the push start switch, the connection itself becomes inadequate I found going to a heavy duty loop end takes care of the electrical issue see picture.
I made it removable but is best not to just remove whatever end is there now and using factory wire just change to heavy duty loop end.
That there is great info. I have been looking into the Powermaster 9509 for this exact reason.
Replace the cable going from the fuse box to the Positive starter lug with 1/0 Welding cable and heat wrap the cable with heat tape. OEM starter in good condition works just fine without heat blanket or header wrap.
2" Header Guys what Starter?
