Brake fluid change -- Turkey baster method ok ?


A couple of days ago, I removed the brake master cylinder cover to check the fluid ... From what I could see is that it is a grayish black color and filthy.
Instead of buying speed bleeders or one of those $75 'Motive' brand DIY pressure power bleeder units, I was just thinking of removing as much fluid as I could out of the reservoir with a turkey baster, then refilling with new fluid.
Motive 'Black Label' Power Bleeder Kit (GM) ... https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...er-bleeder-kit
Then, after refilling the master cylinder and driving it for maybe a week, going back and doing the same thing again ... I figured that if I did this maybe 4 or 5 times, I would get most of the filth out of the brake system and then have pretty much clean fluid in the system.
I understand that this is more or less the "Lazy Mans" approach to this, but to me, I am thinking that in the end, I would have much cleaner fluid in the system than the crap that's in there now.
Any comments or better ideas to my plan?
Thanks,
Ron



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EDIT: On the other hand, I doubt there is very much re-circulation of the fluid in the brake system.
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Last edited by Turbo6TA; Apr 2, 2020 at 02:45 PM.
Last edited by irok; Apr 2, 2020 at 07:40 PM.


I was just thinking the ol' turkey baster trick would be the easiest, as long as it's done maybe 4 times over a 1 month period
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


While I re-located the pump, I drained as much of the old fluid out of it as I could (even out of the lines) ... and then filled it with new fluid.
Well, I looked at that fluid too and found it to be black as night ... How the hell this fluid could go from clear to black this fast is way above my paygrade !
I would like to flush that system too, but I have a feeling it will just turn black shortly after.
Shakes head ! !

I would pull as much of the old fluid as you can out the master cylinder with the turkey tool, put some fresh one in and the start bleeding the brakes one by one, and keep topping up the master cylinder as you go along. Bleed each caliper until the fluid that comes out the bleeder at each wheel is nice and clean, then move on to the next. That’s my redneck advice, which as my friend Mitch would say, “is worth every penny you paid for it”.
And don’t worry about the dirty oil in the power steering reservoir. At some point the pump will probably start leaking and you’ll have to keep topping it up anyway!





You own a expensive high maintenance car, don't cut corners, and sucking it out of the Master cylinder doesn't accomplish anything, except the bowl has clean fluid when done.


It's a bitch to not only be retired, but to also have nowhere to go ... everything is closed around here except for the grocery stores and Walmart !
Now the Florida governor has issued a Stay at Home order effective midnight tonight.
Well, at least these crazy people around here have not started hoarding beer and whiskey !
.... Praise the Lord !It's a bitch to not only be retired, but to also have nowhere to go ... everything is closed around here except for the grocery stores and Walmart !
Now the Florida governor has issued a Stay at Home order effective midnight tonight.
Well, at least these crazy people around here have not started hoarding beer and whiskey !
.... Praise the Lord !You own a expensive high maintenance car, don't cut corners, and sucking it out of the Master cylinder doesn't accomplish anything, except the bowl has clean fluid when done.
I do agree that the only correct way to get rid of the old brake fluid is to bleed them from the calipers. I have a Mity-Vac and did mine last summer.
We aren't in a lock down where I live in Utah (yet), so I was able to get the car out briefly yesterday and try out the new custom tune with the E Force. Stay safe all!
Last edited by MissileDoc; Apr 3, 2020 at 11:00 AM.


Now I am thinking about selling the OEM Z06 "Spyder" wheels and tires I also had on my car. I just replaced them with a set of Forgestar F14 17" wheels with drag radials on the rear.
Need to find someone locally here in Florida to sell them to ... shipping both the wheels and tires together would cost too much.
Photo of the genuine GM "Spyder" wheels and the Hankook tires with 2,000 miles on them:

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New Forgestar F14 wheels and tires:
















