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So I've finally gotten the opportunity to dyno my car after 3 years. I was so excited but nervous at the same time. I took it to Nic D at Cordes performance racing in Tempe today. The ambient air temp I got when I dropped it off was reading 110* off the cars sensor and IATs were anywhere from 5 to 15 degrees higher than that, so I'm not sure how much that hurt with the correction factor but it's something to be said at least. Here's the setup
LS2 M6
BTR 4 235/242 .621"/.592" 111+3
PRC 2.5 Heads (243 castings)
Fast 102 ported by Bret Barber @ Racers Edge here in Tucson
NW102
4" Intake with LS3/7 MAF
ATI 10% UD
Vararam
SE Headers
FIC 60LB Injectors
Flex fuel
Other goodies to make things work
Kenne Bell BAP
Mighty mouse catch can
Katech Tensioner
Holley Fuel rails
PLX Gen 4 WB
Dashlogic
Enough talking. Heres the graph. Car made 481 on 91, and 493 on E65. I'm happy and disappointed simultaneously, being so short of 500. I think that perhaps with some cooler weather, and since we had clutch issues on the dyno that some minor tweaks can get us there. I know its rare to see on an LS2 so I'm extremely happy with the number for its first time on the dyno. Next plan for the car after a new clutch is going to be a wet kit with a standalone. Looking at perhaps a 200 shot.
The 1.05 correction factor is obviously based on the ambient conditions.
However, the correction factor has no effect on your tune. In other words your high IAT readings could be reducing timing by a few degrees which in return could effect the measured tq/hp measured on the dyno.
Perhaps the the following example will confuse or clarify, suppose you dyno running timing of 18 degrees and then on the very next run (minutes later) you change the timing to 24 degrees, more than likely you will see an increase in power while the correction factor stays the same.
So it is possible on a cooler day you may dyno a few horse higher even with the correction factor being lower than the 1.05
we are in tempe which is 18xx ft. DA here is typically 4k though, tucson where he is will hit 6k a lot barf!!!
OP thank you for using us to tune the car, I was super impressed to say the least
Thanks Joe. It won't be the last time my car is there. In fact, I found and fixed the vacuum leak that Nic was fighting with the whole time so I am going to rebook his next available and have him tidy everything up. We need to talk about that clutch job next.
Thanks Joe. It won't be the last time my car is there. In fact, I found and fixed the vacuum leak that Nic was fighting with the whole time so I am going to rebook his next available and have him tidy everything up. We need to talk about that clutch job next.
How do you have to BAP programmed to run? All times? Great numbers btw
Glad you asked! I made a thread about it but got zero replies. And I thought I had a pretty damn good idea..
So you can buy an NPP controller (my car didn't come with it, but you can skip that step if yours came with it.) on ebay for like $20-30. The controller wires into the vehicles CANBUS with one wire, which transmits all sorts of data. In the case of the NPP controller, it normally sends out a 12v+ to a vacuum solenoid to open or close your butterfly valves. Well if you just send that to a relay instead, and wire the BAP activation wires to said relay, your BAP will turn on under conditions that the factory NPP mufflers would normally open up. The controller will turn on the BAP when RPMs are over 3500 AND throttle position is over 50%. I didn't want to tap TPS or anything on the car yet, I'll save that for a nitrous controller.
If you want more info DM me or we can move the convo over to the thread I started on this topic.
WOW. That is awesome. Never would have even thought of that. I have a heads cam intake LS3 and want to go E85 but did not want to take on the task of replacing the stock fuel pump. Always wondered if there was a way to run the BAP on a naturally aspirated car and that sounds like a great idea!
WOW. That is awesome. Never would have even thought of that. I have a heads cam intake LS3 and want to go E85 but did not want to take on the task of replacing the stock fuel pump. Always wondered if there was a way to run the BAP on a naturally aspirated car and that sounds like a great idea!
The only other way that made sense to me was using a nitrous controller to activate it, but I didn’t like that. I don’t want to use a vacuum switch. I want to know the exact variables that trigger it and I’m happy with how it turned out. I don’t know what the limits of running the stock pump with a BAP are but Nic told me there was no indication of it running out of pump on E.
If those were 243's you had 65 cc chambers. Between HG and resurface you took about .022 off. 11.3 to one or so? I've got about the same set up. Trick flow fast as cast 220's. Mill .025 and .044 HG about .033? Total 11.5 to 1 ? Comp 231/239. .617/.624 113+4 and I did a 100mm maf that really makes it breath! Car is running going to the dump/tuner ASAP. I am also looking for 500 at the wheel, I hope been trying to get there for awhile
If those were 243's you had 65 cc chambers. Between HG and resurface you took about .022 off. 11.3 to one or so? I've got about the same set up. Trick flow fast as cast 220's. Mill .025 and .044 HG about .033? Total 11.5 to 1 ? Comp 231/239. .617/.624 113+4 and I did a 100mm maf that really makes it breath! Car is running going to the dump/tuner ASAP. I am also looking for 500 at the wheel, I hope been trying to get there for awhile
Maybe you can double check my math here. Stock chambers are 64.45 cc, I've been told by the machine shops that did the heads that anywhere from .010 to .012 has been removed in total, so I'm guessing just under 2ccs smaller. Everything else should be pretty straight forward. And yeah I switched over to just a custom 4 inch intake with a 4 inch maf housing. Didn't do a before/after pull but the combo definitely works with a NW102. You'll be in the ballpark, that's for sure.
Maybe you can double check my math here. Stock chambers are 64.45 cc, I've been told by the machine shops that did the heads that anywhere from .010 to .012 has been removed in total, so I'm guessing just under 2ccs smaller. Everything else should be pretty straight forward. And yeah I switched over to just a custom 4 inch intake with a 4 inch maf housing. Didn't do a before/after pull but the combo definitely works with a NW102. You'll be in the ballpark, that's for sure.
I was never any good with those calculators, BUT GM lists 243's as 65 cc chambers and stock HG's at .052 compressed and LS2 at 10.9-1 comp. it is widely used that .005 is 1 point in comp. Sooo you did .012 and you have HG at .012 that's .024{I'm being generous} so lets say .5 which would give you 11.4, stick out from the deck is more like .003, I did .025 off the heads and .008 HG which is .033? I figure I'm about 11.5-1
dyno results
And I thought I had a pretty damn good idea..
