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I've looked and looked and haven't seen anyone else do it this way. I'm thinking about cutting the ends off of the original battery cables and putting a compression fitting on the end of each and bolting the positive to the fuse box power supply stud and the negative to the engine. Then running the positive from the rear and connecting it to the fuse block stud and running a ground ti the rear subframe. Is there any reason this isn't a good idea?
Not following what you're saying but I did this and haven't had a problem for years. Hope this helps.
I cut the ends of my battery cables off. Took the grounds to the ground stud on the frame up front (there's one close to where battery is kinda below the tray) and ran a large ground cable from battery in rear to frame in rear. Then I took the positive cables and tied them into the new positive cable that came from new rear mounted battery (used a power distribution block that accepted 2 smaller cables and the new large one with set screws). Used 1/0 AWG for the new cables.
imo, to remove front weight best thing to do is go with an lithium battery. I am using one it only weighs 4lbs it's so small I tie wrapped it in place, lol
has more cranking power than a heavy optima battery and plenty reserve. My car can sit for weeks and fires right up
imo, to remove front weight best thing to do is go with an lithium battery. I am using one it only weighs 4lbs it's so small I tie wrapped it in place, lol
has more cranking power than a heavy optima battery and plenty reserve. My car can sit for weeks and fires right up
I'm moving mine to the rear to make room for heat exchanger tank. It won't hurt to have the extra weight back there for traction either.
Not following what you're saying but I did this and haven't had a problem for years. Hope this helps.
I cut the ends of my battery cables off. Took the grounds to the ground stud on the frame up front (there's one close to where battery is kinda below the tray) and ran a large ground cable from battery in rear to frame in rear. Then I took the positive cables and tied them into the new positive cable that came from new rear mounted battery (used a power distribution block that accepted 2 smaller cables and the new large one with set screws). Used 1/0 AWG for the new cables.
That's basically how I'm thinking of doing it. Only instead of a distribution block I'm going to mount both the old and new positive cable to the power block at the fuse block.
I've looked and looked and haven't seen anyone else do it this way. I'm thinking about cutting the ends off of the original battery cables and putting a compression fitting on the end of each and bolting the positive to the fuse box power supply stud and the negative to the engine. Then running the positive from the rear and connecting it to the fuse block stud and running a ground ti the rear subframe. Is there any reason this isn't a good idea?
No, if you are going to move the battery, then start with new cables all together instead.
Hence on positive side, larger gauge that factory, and instead of using the starter solenoid as the junction point for the battery/alternator/fuse box cable, use a tap/Weld block to connect these all together, with a tap off the tap block lead to the starter solenoid isntead. Also, since the battery will now be farther down line with voltage drop of the longer cables, need to up size the alternator cable (with fuse link) as well.
On the ground cable, again larger gauge than factory for gauge, and instead of just grounding the cable to the frame chassis, Hit the chassis ground point, a starter bolt point, and then to the engine ground point above the starter. Hence the big one here, is that the alternator is grounding to the motor, so we need cable all the way to the motor so the ground does not have problems long term in regards to charging the battery.
And if you don't believed me, just look up Z06 problems with weak starter's, or charging problems. Hence you could use the GS or Z06 battery cables for the needed new cables, but your just going to run into the same problems they have with voltage drop across the longer cables isntead.
No, if you are going to move the battery, then start with new cables all together instead.
Hence on positive side, larger gauge that factory, and instead of using the starter solenoid as the junction point for the battery/alternator/fuse box cable, use a tap/Weld block to connect these all together, with a tap off the tap block lead to the starter solenoid isntead. Also, since the battery will now be farther down line with voltage drop of the longer cables, need to up size the alternator cable (with fuse link) as well.
On the ground cable, again larger gauge than factory for gauge, and instead of just grounding the cable to the frame chassis, Hit the chassis ground point, a starter bolt point, and then to the engine ground point above the starter. Hence the big one here, is that the alternator is grounding to the motor, so we need cable all the way to the motor so the ground does not have problems long term in regards to charging the battery.
And if you don't believed me, just look up Z06 problems with weak starter's, or charging problems. Hence you could use the GS or Z06 battery cables for the needed new cables, but your just going to run into the same problems they have with voltage drop across the longer cables isntead.
I plan on running a large 1 gauge positive battery cable from the back of the car to the front. Then connecting it to the stud on the fuse block and using the existing cable from the fuse block to the starter. I'm also going to add a 1 gauge ground to the rear subframe.
imo, to remove front weight best thing to do is go with an lithium battery. I am using one it only weighs 4lbs it's so small I tie wrapped it in place, lol
has more cranking power than a heavy optima battery and plenty reserve. My car can sit for weeks and fires right up
Veneno what battery are you using? do you have a picture of your setup?
I plan on running a large 1 gauge positive battery cable from the back of the car to the front. Then connecting it to the stud on the fuse block and using the existing cable from the fuse block to the starter. I'm also going to add a 1 gauge ground to the rear subframe.
That should work. But it would be better if you either ran the batt + cable directly to the starter or at least changed the factory positive cable for a short HD cable and use either a covered marine junction block to connect the battery cable to the starter cable. Or, better yet, use something like a Mechman ANL fuse holder and a ~300amp ANL fuse to connect the two cables together. https://www.mechman.com/accessories/...l-fuse-holder/
I did mine differently, by running a 1 gauge wire forward through the right rocker tunnel and connected that to a Marine bulkhead connector and then ran a shorter cable to the starter and then a 1 gauge wire over to the alternator. I also installed a marine circuit breaker in the rear cubby next to the battery. I prefer to have some sort of breaker or fusible connector inline when running heavy gauge wiring forward through the rocker, in the event that the cable gets shorted in a crash or something.
Here are a few pics of my install:
Here’s where it’s located: easily accessible with the PC1200 Odyssey installed. Busman 150amp Marine circuit breaker. You can get one of these from just about any large marine retailer. Used two threaded rods with S/S fender washers underneath for the holddown. Put some toolbox drawer liner under the battery to help cushion it. Here’s the bulkhead connector mounted forward of the fuse box. NOTE: This isn’t the ideal one, as the two lugs aren’t connected, so I had to use a heavy cable loop to connect the two lugs. Odyssey mounted and connected. Moroso H/X reservoir mounted in place of the battery.
That should work. But it would be better if you either ran the batt + cable directly to the starter or at least changed the factory positive cable for a short HD cable and use either a covered marine junction block to connect the battery cable to the starter cable. Or, better yet, use something like a Mechman ANL fuse holder and a ~300amp ANL fuse to connect the two cables together. https://www.mechman.com/accessories/...l-fuse-holder/
I did mine differently, by running a 1 gauge wire forward through the right rocker tunnel and connected that to a Marine bulkhead connector and then ran a shorter cable to the starter and then a 1 gauge wire over to the alternator. I also installed a marine circuit breaker in the rear cubby next to the battery. I prefer to have some sort of breaker or fusible connector inline when running heavy gauge wiring forward through the rocker, in the event that the cable gets shorted in a crash or something.
Here are a few pics of my install:
Here’s where it’s located: easily accessible with the PC1200 Odyssey installed. Busman 150amp Marine circuit breaker. You can get one of these from just about any large marine retailer. Used two threaded rods with S/S fender washers underneath for the holddown. Put some toolbox drawer liner under the battery to help cushion it. Here’s the bulkhead connector mounted forward of the fuse box. NOTE: This isn’t the ideal one, as the two lugs aren’t connected, so I had to use a heavy cable loop to connect the two lugs. Odyssey mounted and connected. Moroso H/X reservoir mounted in place of the battery.
I've decided to go ahead and run the main battery cable straight to the starter. I like the idea of the circuit breaker you put in the cubby! You have a link for that?
Battery relocation?
