Please see other thread topic .

 

Probably just the type of oil causing the tapping noise....Switch the oil and see if it goes away. I have not seen an overfill for a short period cause any real major issues.

 

Is it an automatic or manual? (i.e. dry sump or wet sump)

How overfilled was overfilled?

Is this really the second oil change ever in 15k miles?

 

Horror story. Always change your own Oil.. I’ll never let a 20 y/o getting paid $8 hr with a cell phone in one hand change my Oil.

 

Sucks, dude.
Drove it 15 miles? Sounds like a bonzi run to a strip joint 7 miles away.
I think you're on the right track to get a expert opinion. Your local Chevy dealer sucks also.
Get a good shop or call Chevy help line to help with a dealer.

 

C6.. 15k total miles. manual transmission, dry-sump. And I believe it was the second oil change.

 

Will make this brief, and if they pulled the passenger side fuel rail cover, to pull the passenger side valve cover port cap to add oil into the motor there, then pretty much screwed your motor. Hence dry sump pan hold about 3 quarts of oil, the dry sump system takes about 10qts of oil in the pump/lines tank, and with even 4 quarts of oil in the sump pan poured through the passenger side vavle cover, at start up the bottom of the pistons will be slapping off the oil level way too high in the dry sump pan, to do all kinds of damage to the motor and pistons to start with.

Hence the only place the oil should have been added was to the oil tank on the passenger side of the fender edge (fuel rail cover should have never been pulled in the first place on a dry sump motor). Also the sump pan has two oil drain bolts that have to be removed to drain all the oil out of the pump and tank, as well as the quart and half oil that will collect in the bottom of the sump pan when the motor is shut off.

At this point, would get your insurance company involves, since the way I see this play out, a trip to a GM dealer to have them go through the motor to find that damage that the shop did by not doing the correct method of oil change on a dry sump motor, and them pull the motor apart to fix the damage is possible, or just replace the motor. Since the oil change shop that did the oil change is already trying to duck the problem they caused but not doing the oil change correctly in the first place, will be your insurance company that will go after them for damages, to pay the dealer to fix the now screwed motor. My guess if they can save the motor, looking about $6K, while if they cannot, then over $10K and diminished resale value claim on top of that.

As for a quick how to do a oil change on dry sump motor,

Both of these drain plugs have to be remove to get all 10qts of oil out of the motor, pump and tank as well as pull the filter


As for putting back in oil after the oil pump and drain plugs have been installed, start with 8qts of oil into the tank only,


Now in the car, pin the gas pedal to the floor so the motor will not start, and hit the starter button to crank the motor for about 5 seconds so the pump start to push oil through the lines to prime the oil system. Do this twice to make sure that the lines have been primed. Now start the motor, let is start to warm out, and them finish putting the last of oil in the tank until the oil dipstick in the tank comes up to full.



So bottom line, before you allow anyone to do a oil change on a Dry sump motor, you have them talk you through the oil change, so you know they are doing it correctly from the start. Also, watch them do the change, and if the pull the fuel rail cover at any time, shut them down on the spot. Hence manager may be able to talk you through it correctly, but flunky on the line may only now how to change the oil in a wet sump motor and distroy the motor with too much oil in the dry sump pan on start up by trying to add oil into the passenger valve cover isntead.


To add, the passenger vavle cover cap for the dry sump motor vavle cover has two locking tabs on the cap since its not a oil fill port, to lock the cap to the cover so it can not be easily removed in the first place. so If it was removed, both locking tabs where broken off (now in the valve tray), and they will need to be removed now as well.

 

Dano summed it up well. Way too many horror stories of dry sump oil changes gone bad. Any updates op?

 

Had the oil changed yesterday. Mobile one 5 30 synthetic. And a mobile one high flow high-performance oil filter. Problem solved after about 15 miles of driving.

 

I’m assuming it didn’t tap prior to the oil change? These engines are known to have noisy valve train. Mine sounds like a sewing machine too but I have a cam and headers which amplify the tapping.

If it runs without smoking that’s a good sign.

 

Try the old-timers trick. Get a long metal something (rod, screwdriver, etc) Place one end on the area you want to listen to and the other end on the bone in front of your ear canal.

 

I’m inclined to agree with Dano on this one. Unfortunately it’s not all that uncommon bringing dry sump cars to these quickie lube places. If that’s the case I just hope they stand up for the major screwup.

 

Again, motor is frag'd by the piston slapping off/in the oil in the dry sump pan that was too high by the oil change completed incorrectly.
Granted that the oil pump will pull the engine oil down in the dry sump pan in time, the damage to the pistons, piston connecting rods (and cylinders in some cases) is already done before the oil level is pulled back down to safe levels.

So get your insurance company on the phone to bring them up to speed before you take the car to a GM dealer to asses the damage, GM dealer to correct the problems if they can with motor pull down, or just replace the motor if the damage is bad enough, then your insurance company to pay the bill to the GM dealer (less your deductible), and let your insurance company deal with the oil change shop's insurance company directly to recover cost damages.

Simply put, the oil change shop knows they screwed the motor up, but are going to duck you any way then can, isntead of ponying up the $10K damage cost they did to the motor/that is going to cost for a GM dealer to correct the problem. This may change with the insurance companies getting involved (since your insurance company will be going after their insurance company), but even then, it's still a "free for all" that you don't want/need to have any part in.