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very nice calculator it confirms whats been said at 65mph engine turning 1660 rpm. anyone know why 4.56 ratio's aren't available? with 4.56 gears at 65mph engine turns 1860 rpm still low for cruising . Did some searching found something said these differential housings can't handle the torque of gears bigger than 4.10. anyone know anything about this? will give RPM call today
RKT56 in Frederick Maryland also specializes in rears/trans and his name is Rick 301 257 0930. I think maybe the 4.10 is the way to go it at least gets you most of the way there and still gives you use of 6th gear. That rear calculator thing was also a nice demonstration of things.
very nice calculator it confirms whats been said at 65mph engine turning 1660 rpm. anyone know why 4.56 ratio's aren't available? with 4.56 gears at 65mph engine turns 1860 rpm still low for cruising . Did some searching found something said these differential housings can't handle the torque of gears bigger than 4.10. anyone know anything about this? will give RPM call today
You do know that it's not a requirement to use 6th gear or even 5th, don't you? If you want nearly the same overall ratio like you had in your late '60's big block 4-speed with a 4.56 axle, then simply never use 4th. The overall ratio in 3rd is 4.45, in 4th is 3.42, in 5th is 2.53, and 6th is 1.71. It's a lot easier to use the shift lever to go from cruise to power than to be forced to use it constantly just to get up to your cruising speed. In 6th at 75 mph, your rpm is currently 1600, however leaving it in 4th changes it to 3200, if you prefer that starting point power range.
The above quoted calculator using 65 mph at 1660 rpm, either wasn't in 6th gear or used 22.5" tire diameter.
the bigger problem I feel is dead stop acceleration car dead from roll out. top end can use lower gear or down shift
That's certainly problematic, in this situation. My 4.10's were great, in this regard. Just a little too busy for my liking. But hey if you enjoy shifting, more power to you.
really not more shifting, speeds shifting at 3000 rpm normal driving gears 3.42 / 4.10 1- 26/22, 2- 39/33, 3-54/45, 4- 70/58, 5-95/79,
6-145/117
the upper gears are farther apart probably won't go that high in RPM'S but lower gears are close don't know if really feel difference unless pushing it check out this calculator really good https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx
like I said not much different although everyone that got them said they like them. maybe I should start with tune and CAI see if bottom end feels better. Guy's that got tunes how did you feel it helped low end?
It's def busier - especially with close ratio lower gears, like in the LS1...don't know if this would bother you, or not. 3.90's is an option as well..
like I said not much different although everyone that got them said they like them. maybe I should start with tune and CAI see if bottom end feels better. Guy's that got tunes how did you feel it helped low end?
Oops. I didn't realize you were still bone stock, because most people don't start thinking about gear changes until they've done several other performance mods and are wanting something more.
With nothing more than a CAI and a tune, I dropped an average of .15 seconds off my 60' time and .4 seconds off the 330' time. So yeah, go there first.
yes think cars under geared from factory doing CAI just to do before tune don't think will feel difference with stock motor . going with Vararam seems like everyone likes that one
So decided putting 4.10's in, getting differential from ZIP with tune and Vararam CAI do you think Vararam Power wedge worth it? Have appointment at Tune Time in NJ. he said he will have car for week? Seems long time, have to talk to him again both ZIP and RPM say they do car in a day. What you guy's seen as far as install time. Hate leaving car in shop for a week, things happen.
scheduled next week for 4.10 differential install. have question about break in for gears. Got rear from ZIP their break in is, install differential fill with lube, run for 10 minutes check level top off, drive car gently no hard take off's stay below 50 mph for 500 mile's then drain and refill and you done. Spoke to RPM they said take differential through 10 heat up and cool downs drain and refill. online it says 3 heat up and cool down cycles. Anyone have any ideas about differential break in?
scheduled next week for 4.10 differential install. have question about break in for gears. Got rear from ZIP their break in is, install differential fill with lube, run for 10 minutes check level top off, drive car gently no hard take off's stay below 50 mph for 500 mile's then drain and refill and you done. Spoke to RPM they said take differential through 10 heat up and cool downs drain and refill. online it says 3 heat up and cool down cycles. Anyone have any ideas about differential break in?
Seems to me if I remember correctly RPM had me do some figure 8's before the heat cycles
was joking about previous post about doing figure 8's but saw something on you tube saying same thing. But ZIP says 500 miles below 50 mph and RPM say 3 heat up cool down cycles and when I called they said 10 heat up cool down cycles which sounds like better break in. any input on this?
Well I wrote the break in procedure for the Zip differentials and it does not say below 50 mph for 500 miles. You can go to our website and actually download or look at the PDF that has the break-in instructions that we send with every differential.
well if you wrote it you should know it.I'll shorten it
1. run for 10 min check oil level top off if needed
2.second trip 30-40 miles 4.10's no more than 50-55 mph do 3 short trips
3.after initial break in you an drive unlimited miles but no high loads to diff.for first 500 miles do easy 500 miles
4. once you reached the 500-mile break in (your words) drain and replace fluids.
I may have spoken to you about going down to you to install it and you said about my drive home about 250 miles that I should use back roads to no exceed 50 mph. but you break in is still 500 miles before hard use. So after step 2 any speed is ok just no hard starts
well if you wrote it you should know it.I'll shorten it
1. run for 10 min check oil level top off if needed
2.second trip 30-40 miles 4.10's no more than 50-55 mph do 3 short trips
3.after initial break in you an drive unlimited miles but no high loads to diff.for first 500 miles do easy 500 miles
4. once you reached the 500-mile break in (your words) drain and replace fluids.
I may have spoken to you about going down to you to install it and you said about my drive home about 250 miles that I should use back roads to no exceed 50 mph. but you break in is still 500 miles before hard use. So after step 2 any speed is ok just no hard starts
Yes everything you just said there is fine. When I say take it easy after the initial break in, that doesn't mean go cruise down the interstate at 100+ either. What I am referring to is just normal driving, no full throttle starts or hard RPM downshift. Just be easy on it then after the 500 mile oil change, you can practice your 60ft times.