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I understand steps 1 and 2 maybe more heat up and cool downs than 3 but after that what is the next 500 miles doing? shouldn't the heat up cool downs addressed wear patterns and expansion and contraction issues? deburring? the next 500 miles is just keeping what you want to flush out with the fluid change at the end in there longer maybe damaging bearings ?
No the next 500 are also heat cycles. Just not as crucial as the first two. You are not going to damage anything in the diff as long as you follow our instructions. I'm not sure why you are debating it, I mean in all honesty you can do what you want with it when you purchase it. We have no idea if you follow these or not, but we can look at parts and tell if there was abuse or not. It would be in your best interest to follow the break in instructions.
I know I do what I want , and appreciate some one who would know the field we're talking about responding.I want to do right thing. These questions are to find whats right and whats excess not to win debate. If you do 3, 40 mile cycles that's 120 miles so after that most of debris will be floating around in fluid then leaving it in for next 500 miles especially if you doing highway driving I think will have negative effect. Did you ever sample replaced fluid to see how much metal particles are in it?
I know I do what I want , and appreciate some one who would know the field we're talking about responding.I want to do right thing. These questions are to find whats right and whats excess not to win debate. If you do 3, 40 mile cycles that's 120 miles so after that most of debris will be floating around in fluid then leaving it in for next 500 miles especially if you doing highway driving I think will have negative effect. Did you ever sample replaced fluid to see how much metal particles are in it?
Mike,
It is 500 miles total, not 120 then 500. Yes we have tested them, I have run them wide open from the moment they were installed on a race track to breaking them in. Race diffs live a season and do not recommend that. Just follow our instructions and you will be fine.
I agree just 2 things bother me 1. I don't do a lot of mile so won't be able to get on car until October at the rate I drive. 2. Don't know if I like driving another 360 miles after breaking in gears with contaminated gear lube from heat up cool downs where most of the breaking in is done. Plus never heard of having to break differential in from Chevrolet or any place else sounds like CYA for aftermarket company's. I mean all these gears are heat treated to start with.
I agree just 2 things bother me 1. I don't do a lot of mile so won't be able to get on car until October at the rate I drive. 2. Don't know if I like driving another 360 miles after breaking in gears with contaminated gear lube from heat up cool downs where m ost of the breaking in is done. Plus never heard of having to break differential in from Chevrolet or any place else sounds like CYA for aftermarket company's. I mean all these gears are heat treated to start with.
Plus never heard of having to break differential in from Chevrolet
Keyword, GM wants you to take it easy on the car for the first 500 miles. They are breaking in the whole driveline and engine so they don't actually mention the differential by itself. Starting on the C7 the car was paritally disabeled for the first 500 miles. You are making this way more complicated then it needs to be. If you want to change the fluid every 50 miles you can do that. If you want to change it after the initial breaking go ahead, but take it easy on it for the remainder of the mileage.
Update on Diff. install. all good up to 360 miles need to do another 140 miles to complete break in. Want to talk about ZIP service, Differential looks and runs good but their customer service needs improvement don't know If I would recommend them. 1. ordered it told shipping was for both ways but had to pay for return 2. told it will take 2 weeks to get done so made appointment at TuneTime and told Brandon not to send until 3 days before appointment. Diff was sent 2 days later sat in shop for 2 weeks box was opened paper work gone. 3. sent Diff. in card bd. box poorly packed looks like diff was loose in box. 3. Gave $1200 core deposit and sent back my diff. they had it for 8 days still haven't gotten core charge back yet, most shops don't even charge card until your late returning it.. Spoke to Branden day after they received it ask them to process asap before credit card closing date told no problem, well closing day is tomorrow account still not credited. got plenty of I'm sorry's but talk is cheap. the things I asked for should have been no problem to do if they were concerned about customer service.Would think twice before using them again.
Update on Diff. install. all good up to 360 miles need to do another 140 miles to complete break in. Want to talk about ZIP service, Differential looks and runs good but their customer service needs improvement don't know If I would recommend them. 1. ordered it told shipping was for both ways but had to pay for return 2. told it will take 2 weeks to get done so made appointment at TuneTime and told Brandon not to send until 3 days before appointment. Diff was sent 2 days later sat in shop for 2 weeks box was opened paper work gone. 3. sent Diff. in card bd. box poorly packed looks like diff was loose in box. 3. Gave $1200 core deposit and sent back my diff. they had it for 8 days still haven't gotten core charge back yet, most shops don't even charge card until your late returning it.. Spoke to Branden day after they received it ask them to process asap before credit card closing date told no problem, well closing day is tomorrow account still not credited. got plenty of I'm sorry's but talk is cheap. the things I asked for should have been no problem to do if they were concerned about customer service.Would think twice before using them again.
My RPM diff came bolted down on a wooden box, They gave me 1 month to return my diff & everything was on time. Oh yeah excellent product too.
Bringing car in for tune next week just need another 100 miles for break in before dyno. doing some work before tune, changing Diff. lube, tranny fluid, clutch fluid, new plugs AC 41-110, wires Taylor, Vararam CAI, Vararam Wedge. Thinking when throttle body of do port and polish on it. any of you done this? Is it worth it?
Bringing car in for tune next week just need another 100 miles for break in before dyno. doing some work before tune, changing Diff. lube, tranny fluid, clutch fluid, new plugs AC 41-110, wires Taylor, Vararam CAI, Vararam Wedge. Thinking when throttle body of do port and polish on it. any of you done this? Is it worth it?
Soler did a nice job on my Throttle Body porting, looks great & has good tip-in power
I put 4.10's in my old Camaro Z28 SS. It had the LS1 and T-56 trans, but with the 10 bolt rear. Stock, it too had that fucked-up long 1st gear that you could drive 60 MPH with. All ratios were the same as the C5 vette (but not Z06). The 4.10's were ******* unreal. The car pulled much harder in all gears.
I wanted to do 4.10's in my vettes, but like you found for some reason the whole rear gets swapped and I wasn't willing to do that. RPM would have been my choice. I don't think they would act like a child towards you for asking questions. Post back what you think about the gear change after break-in.
very happy with gear change (differential swap) car feels like that's what should have been in it to start with. had a 67 Chevell SS when I put 4.10's in it , I felt big difference with 4 speed. with 6 speed tranny in C6 vette no big difference but nicer take off from stop you can roll out no need to feed gas, going from 1st to 2nd to all gears you don't get big RPM drop nice smooth transition between gears. top end only 200 RPM difference gas mileage basically the same . So normal driving not really effected but feels much better, better drivability . As far as under power leaving stop light car pulls real strong right from start feels much better than 3.42's. haven't been to track so can't give numbers but definitely much stronger. try this calculator put tire size in and tranny gear ratio's you can see how car would react as far as rpm's and mph https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx . I went with Zip they offer standard rear for $1400, $600 less than RPM which only offers stronger race differential for $2100. I'm not raving will never have street slicks on car have Michelin all season run flats which stock rear should handle so felt more expensive race rear wasn't needed. put extra money towards Vararam CAI and tune. any other questions let me know.