Electrical Concern Trying to start.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 244
Likes: 26
From: Carmel, Indiana
Electrical Concern Trying to start.
I was trying to reset the indexing of the windows with the car not running. So I went aux as I was working the aux button dash lights flashed and computer (I think) mad a weird sound, I still couldn't reset the windows so I thought I would start the car and try it that way but all I got was a check engine light and a click. I did a battery boost and it start and the battery register 13.6 the 14,0. Don't understand why it won't start but yet when it comes back it's charged? Any thoughts besides carrying jumper cables and I do carry them.
Thanks
Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Where did you get the 13.6V, 14V battery measurements? From the instrument panel or a voltmeter applied to the battery terminals. Was that measurement taken with the engine running or off. By the way computers don't make weird sounds. They are totally silent unless they are burning then they make popping, snapping and sizzling noises.
Bill
Bill
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 2
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From: Torrance, CA
Default Electrical Concern Trying to start. I was trying to reset the indexing of the
Hi if the battery is good, check your crankshaft sensor, some of the symptoms of a bad crankshaft sensor is the car not starting. Good luck 👍
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 244
Likes: 26
From: Carmel, Indiana
Measurement came from the IP with car off, and it was on a Battery Tender at the time. I'm beginning to think that it might be the Ignition switch because when I jumped it nothing happened until I start pushing on the accessory side of the switch, then it started.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 244
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From: Carmel, Indiana
I just put a volt meter on my batt and registered over 14amp but I did a parasidic loss test to find that I'm losing over 3amps not running. So I started pulling fuses and found one that dropped it to .074. it was a 15amp fuse designated RDO/S-Band VICS , radio , S-band VICS I understand the radio but what are the other acronyms? I haven't gone any further I'm wondering if I could just have a bad fuse (I'm not that lucky) I'm sending this to you as you were the only one that gave the most information.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Tampa FL
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11,338
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From: Eastern
I just put a volt meter on my batt and registered over 14amp but I did a parasidic loss test to find that I'm losing over 3amps not running. So I started pulling fuses and found one that dropped it to .074. it was a 15amp fuse designated RDO/S-Band VICS , radio , S-band VICS I understand the radio but what are the other acronyms? I haven't gone any further I'm wondering if I could just have a bad fuse (I'm not that lucky) I'm sending this to you as you were the only one that gave the most information.
The Onstar is one of the main sources for a parasitic draw, as Onstar may try to constanly ping the module to try to connect. Pull the Onstar Fuse and that will most likely fix your parasitic draw.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 244
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From: Carmel, Indiana
The Radio Sband VICS fuse is the culprit, now would anyone happen to know with Harness/Bundle would apply to that fuse and if I start pulling wiring bundles will I screw up the computer or something else on the car? Other options I'm considering is a battery cut off switch, trading the car in or just disconnedting the battery when when put it away.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Eastern
The Radio Sband VICS fuse is the culprit, now would anyone happen to know with Harness/Bundle would apply to that fuse and if I start pulling wiring bundles will I screw up the computer or something else on the car? Other options I'm considering is a battery cut off switch, trading the car in or just disconnedting the battery when when put it away.
The VCIM module is found at various locations depending on year and model
I have attached a PDF to show where it is located based on your year.
If you want to pull connectors on the VCIM, unplug all of them except the one at J4
That should take the VCIM out of the picture and not F*** up anything else.
Good Luck
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 244
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From: Carmel, Indiana
I haven't touched the OS fuse but I will do a P draw to make sure. My fuse panel looks diffrerent than the one you show, there is a center bundle on my shaped rectangular with a screw holding it in unless what you show is somewhere else on the car.
I really appreciate the help, thanks again. I'll post up the results.
I really appreciate the help, thanks again. I'll post up the results.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 11,338
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From: Eastern
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 244
Likes: 26
From: Carmel, Indiana
Thanks for that procedure, I picked up a new battery have not installed it yet I'm waiting for a battery disconnect switch. After I put it all together I'll post results.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.