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I have a 2005 C6 with 46 K miles. I replaces the battery 2 times already because it would not start. I recently just drove 75 miles and the battery should have been totally charged, but after 2 hours of sitting idle it would not start again.
AAA said I either had a bad cell or a bad ground because a jump start did not work. So I went and bought a new battery and it started and I drove home. The next day the car would ot start again. The code now is “steering column Lock”
Before this I also lost HUD , and checked the fuse, it was good.
So, if I order a new ECM does anyone think it will work because the previous owner had replaced it and then it had to be programmed by a dealer. I am 2 hours away from any dealer and the car is under my house , not in a towable position at this point.
I have read all the threads on this and am now hoping that some really smart people can help me come up with a solution.
Welcome to the Forum, and congratulations on your C6!
Lots of great members and helpful info in the C6 sections at https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-2005-2013-14/.
I would encourage you to post your question in the C6 Tech section, too, to expand the range of members who will see your question.
I believe checking your ground points is still a good suggestion. Unfortunately I do not have a schematic of the C6 ground points but I am sure one of the C6 members will be able to post that for you.
Best wishes for an easy and inexpensive fix.
05 6 speeds have a fix for "service column lock" on the DIC. I had the dealer do mine because of a no start issue. Do a search there is plenty of info on the repair.
Disconnect the positive battery cable for a few mins, then reconnect it.
This will hard reset the SCLM and other modules, and should allow you to start the car this time. Hence SLCM is already in fault mode, so without resetting it, and say trying to jump the car, it not going to pull the SCLM out of fault mode to allow you to start the car.
Note, don't forget to reindex the windows.
As for resolution, take the car to a GM dealer to do the steering wheel lock delete, including reflashing the BCM, to take the entire steering column lock system out of play so it never happens again.
I don't understand why your post is titled "Steering Column Lock", but in the body of your post, you make no mention of the steering column lock, but rather describe the symptoms of a battery draining power while the car is off. So, to address the battery drain issue, have you measured system current while the car is off and everything has timed out? A good rule of thumb for that is 25 milliAmps. If you measure significantly more than that, you need to track down the source of that excess current and eliminate it.
Last edited by ClothSeats; Oct 9, 2020 at 05:01 PM.