E85 Conversion
Runs 11.50 at 123 but is not a 1/4miler.
To take it any farther its gonna need more fuel. The shop wants to put in an A&A twin pump, ID 1050 injectors and an E85 conversion.
Is that a fuel overkill?
For tuning the shop uses Ignite E98.
Does an E conversion mean
I could alternate between pump E85 and a 93 mix without consideration? Or will have to buy E98?
Is pump E85 any good?
My Vette sits for 6 months during the winter. Should I run out as much E as I can then fill with 93 before winter shut down? Or it doesnt matter?
This is costing me $4000.
What do I need to know?
Im not going to do a stall unless it gets a cam.
Thank you
E85 has an octane rating of 108, while E15 has a octane rating of 88.
Next is that E85 requires about 30% more fuel, then petrol for the same mileage.
So let back this up,
More boost means more fuel any way you look at it, so chances are that your fuel pump and injectors need to be upgraded.
Regarding more boost, will need a higher octane rating of fuel to prevent detonation as you are pushing the timing to produce more HP as well. Hence you can increase boost on say 93 octane fuel, but since it may not have a high enough octane rating to prevent detonation, then timing has to be pulled farther back, and in some cases, can be making less power with more boost instead.
If car is just a strip car alone, then Ignite E98 may be the way to go.
If the car is a strip and daily driver instead, then better way too go is meth kit instead. Hence meth is only being sprayed on boost, costs about $8 a gallon to make yourself, and when your not heavy on boost, still get the 30% better gas mileage on 93 petrol isntead. Also since the meth kit is spraying extra fuel, then may save you some money if your injector duty is not close to maxed out, and injector and fuel pump don't need to be changed.
Methanol has a octane rating of 110, but that is only half the story. Since meth mix is 50% methanol, and 50% distilled water, while the methanol is preventing the detonation problems so the timing can be pushed, the water is not only helping to reduce intake temps, but since it turns to steam on the iginition stroke, keeping the system and cylinders clean, and adding more power on the down stroke as well.
Now the double edge sword, and just because you can make extra HP, does not mean that you may be able to putt all the extra power down. At only 7lbs of boost, your still on the low side of what the motor can take, so may still be able to add a few more lbs of boost, and the stock drive line still hold up.
As for BAP's not a fan on street cars since it does shorten the life of the pump, and better to just upgrade the pump and be done with it instead.
Last edited by Dano523; Oct 25, 2020 at 03:10 AM.




Runs 11.50 at 123 but is not a 1/4miler.
To take it any farther its gonna need more fuel. The shop wants to put in an A&A twin pump, ID 1050 injectors and an E85 conversion.
Is that a fuel overkill?
For tuning the shop uses Ignite E98.
Does an E conversion mean
I could alternate between pump E85 and a 93 mix without consideration? Or will have to buy E98?
Is pump E85 any good?
My Vette sits for 6 months during the winter. Should I run out as much E as I can then fill with 93 before winter shut down? Or it doesnt matter?
This is costing me $4000.
What do I need to know?
Im not going to do a stall unless it gets a cam.
Thank you
Runs 11.50 at 123 but is not a 1/4miler.
To take it any farther its gonna need more fuel. The shop wants to put in an A&A twin pump, ID 1050 injectors and an E85 conversion.
Is that a fuel overkill?
For tuning the shop uses Ignite E98.
Does an E conversion mean
I could alternate between pump E85 and a 93 mix without consideration? Or will have to buy E98?
Is pump E85 any good?
My Vette sits for 6 months during the winter. Should I run out as much E as I can then fill with 93 before winter shut down? Or it doesnt matter?
This is costing me $4000.
What do I need to know?
Im not going to do a stall unless it gets a cam.
Thank you
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Also, once you add it to the fuel, run the motor motor to get it into the fuel rails and injectors (read needs to mix first out of the drivers tank to the passangers tank, the down the fuel lines). So it better to add it, before you top the tanks off for storage for the winter, since fill and ride to storage will get it through the system.
Ethanol will take water from the air, since there is water in air this always happens.
The more dry the alcohol is (E85 is mixed with gasoline, there is not supposed to be any water) The faster it will absorb water.
If you put Alcohol into a sealed container, like a glass bottle with a serious lid, then it cannot absorb water from the air.
However in the vehicle's fuel system, there is always some mixing with the outside air. It would be very difficult to completely separate the outside air from the air inside a fuel tank.
As the fuel feeds the engine, for example, outside air is rushing in to replace the fuel volume that the engine uses. Otherwise a vacuum would develop in the fuel tank, right?
Also as the fuel tank sits, heats up and pressure builds, there is some venting, and thus some mixing.
And because of all the lines, connections, fuel cap, and venting going on, there are so many places for outside air to get into the fuel tank and bring in water.
Thus, anytime you fill a gas tank with ethanol content, the more alcohol is in there the faster and easier it will draw water from the air.
Even 10% Ethanol in regular gasoline tends to scavenge all the water from fuel tanks over time. A small amount of water is not an issue. But if the fuel can sit for a while and the alcohol content is very high, it will quickly become a mess, that can wreck the fuel system. I've never had it happen to me but I can imagine it would damage the fuel pump, cause corrosion in wiring and exposed metal, clog the fuel filters and fuel injectors, maybe even damage injectors. Maybe 'somebody' should look up what sort of damage the water can do when it invades the Alcohol in a fuel system (I don't really want to know).
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I run sta-bil 360 in my ethanol, then run a tank or two of VP racing fuel or pump 94 and throw another bottle of sta-bil. Then fill up for winter and store. people say to store with 1/4 tank, but I honestly never run it that low with my fuel system really, to begin with... so i might be doing that 'wrong'.
So since the passenger side tank is the first to be drained, if the fuel gauge on the dash shows less than half full, then passenger tank is empty.
So since its a grand in labor to drop the tank to change the fuel lever sensor in the tank when it does go bad (sensor is the cheap part), you really want to store the car will both fuel tanks full, and since we do have E in all the fuels now, want to use a E type stabilizer in the fuel as well when it begin stored.














