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Hi,
Yes of course I saw the thread is old, I just assumed that people would still reply to it, meaning they would still get a notification that I posted. At this point I was talking a bit out loud so I'm gonna try some more things and then if still not working out then I will start a new thread. I just thought we weren't supposed to start a new thread if a similar one already exists.
It's better to start a new thread than to dredge up an old one that you may or may not receive any response from. It will get more attention that way.
It's better to start a new thread than to dredge up an old one that you may or may not receive any response from. It will get more attention that way.
Genuine question - is it better? I often find that when I'm searching for answers to my Corvette issues, the threads with more activity pop up in the searches, so I like seeing the older threads updated as people learn more. I'm almost sure I've seen a forum rule against posting on older threads though.
People post on older threads when their new post applies directly to what the OP was stating, or asking.
Adding in a lot of new info to solve a problem you are having often does not yield results because people who already posted to the original thread skip past it, and don't see the new info.
Also, changing an original posting to apply your own problem is "hijacking", and generally frowned upon.
If you want the best results for your own problem, it is better to start a new thread, as Ed suggested. Each problem is unique...otherwise, you would just use the solutions from the OP answers.
Hi guys, so should I delete my old comments or no?
So it has been quite some years since I was involved in forums. I probably have forgotten all the rules. But you guys are right because seems like I was simply talking out loud about all the Dano replies I have read so like you said, I have found my solution on the older threads. Is there a way to delete my old posts here? And should I simply copy all my posts here and onto a new thread? It might not be worth it any more because my problems seem to be somewhat not a problem. I feel like if there is a way for me to delete these posts I should. And just as FYI, I thought I shouldn't start a new thread with a similar issue as someone else.
To continue my update:
The SERVICE TIRE MONITOR DIC will be taken care by the dealer once I drive again in April, when the salt is gone.
I found out that the cigeratte lighter has a different fuse and the other auxilary port has a different fuse. And I found out that the lighter fuse was missing so after putting one of the extra ones there, the port was working.
The mild to wild still didn't work. I will have to look online for a ciruit of how it is usually wired; should be a simple circuit.
So the car didn't start at first and then I took the shifter out of park to all the positions and back to park and then it started. I'm still puzzled by this if it's the shifter or selector or the switch that are a bit iffy or if some software logic is preventing me from starting on a first try.
Also, I did perform the cleanup of the battery contacts, fuse contact and starter and alternator, as described by Dano. Scraped any corrosion I saw, sprayed with CRC electronic cleaner and then applied CRC dielectric degreaser.
So the car didn't start at first and then I took the shifter out of park to all the positions and back to park and then it started. I'm still puzzled by this if it's the shifter or selector or the switch that are a bit iffy or if some software logic is preventing me from starting on a first try.
Auto Shifter box micro switches, and the next it will not start, hit the shifter forward with a good bump towards the dash, to jolt push the contact switches more, to make the correct contact. Also, this proves that its the micro switches that either needed to be adjusted, or the switches pulled apart to be cleaned, or replaced as well.
Note, the A4 has a park/reverse switch under the car by the trans shift lever, so want to check and clean it as well. The A6 has the micro switches in the shifter assembly only isntead.
I am having these same problems. I tried to jump mine off the relay but unlike yours, mine will not start. I am wondering if it could possibly be the ECM.
I see the Dano guy has a lot of knowledge on it. Anyone know how to reach him?
I am having these same problems. I tried to jump mine off the relay but unlike yours, mine will not start. I am wondering if it could possibly be the ECM.
I see the Dano guy has a lot of knowledge on it. Anyone know how to reach him?
Walk in the part, and if you can fire the relay to start the car, then problem is that the BCM is not sending the final start command to fire the relay in the first place.
So conditions for the BCM to send the start command to fire the relay once you push the start button,
RCDLR seeing the fob in the car, and if RCDLR does not see the fob, you will get fob not found in the DIC
Shifter assembly showing the lever in park.
Hence shifter has front contact switches that tells the BCM that the BCM is in park when the lever is all the way forward. To see if the lever contact switch needs to be adjusted, then just push the lever hard forward when you try to start the car, and if this starts the car, then will need to adjust the micro switch lever.
The second one is that you have to have your foot on the brake pedal pushing it down.
Tech II will make short work of this, since you can go into BCM data to make sure that the brake pedal sensor is working correctly, if not, then do a BPS relearn if the U of the switch has worn isntead. Hence Brake pedal switch is not a on/off type switch, but a resitance switch that are not the same from switch to switch. So car needs to first lean the pedal not touched resitance, then pedal pressed down resitance next. To see if the pedal needs a relearn or replacement with relearn, Push the lower side of the starter button for 5 seconds to get the car into run mode/motor off, press the brake pedal down the normal amount that you are when starting the car and have someone see if the brake lights are coming on.
Hence if dials are sweeping, then BCM does have the car in run mode to start with (why you can jump the relay and car starts), but waiting on the Brake pedal push with trans in park conformation. before it going to send the signal for the relay to spin the starter.
And yes, if you replace the brake pedal sensor, will need to do a BPS relearn of the sensor to the car. the pedal untouched is easy to program in since you don't touch it, while when you do the pedal press to program that in, only press the pedal enough to just lightly get into the brakes, since your not going to be two footing the pedal to start the car.
As for run crank relay on the BCM, its on the bottom side of the module with the back up lights relay if the tech II is both showing that the trans is in park, and the brake is being pushed enough for the BCM, but relay is still not firing.
Lastly, if you are going to wrench on the car at all, then you need a Tech II.
If you have a laptop, then VX GM Nano will cover you for a tech II clone, and cost $109 https://www.amazon.com/VXDIAG-Multip.../dp/B01NACTAY8
Drop me a IM when you get it, and can get you squared away on installing the needed software on your laptop to get it to work correctly from the start.
As for no communication with the ECM, if the car started (not just cranked when you jumped the starter relay), then BCM is communicating with the ECM, and problem will be between the OBDII port and the BCM itself. hence have seen this a few times, where you need to clean the obdII port, and even pull the BCM connectors (battery disconnected) to clean them as well. Worse case if the HVAC box drain line clogged and it leaked water on the BCM out of the box as the box over flowed with water instead of draining out through the drain line, may have to pull the BCM board to clean up the Header pins,trances, and fuse relay clips on the board (maybe even a little re-soldering as well)
P.S, list your location since maybe someone close around you that knows the C6's to give you a hand, Hence your problem is easy to solve once you figure out the problem with a tech II, and in most cases, don't even need new parts. Hence if BPS just has a worn side on the U slot, BPS relearn will solve that until you get a new one to replace it. Getting to the shifter switch lever is no joy, but once you know its the problem, then pretty straight forward to bend the switch lever to fix it. Hell, Tech II will tell you if the BCM is sending the start command in the first place to crank the relay, so tells you if the problem is just the wiring itself. Hence may just need to pull the ECM connector (battery disconnected as well) to spray electrical clean then instead.
The black connectors on the silver box is the ECM and its connectors, while the blue connector you see, is the TCM and its connector on the back side of the ECM.
If you need to talk, then click on my name to the left to send me a PM or email with name and phone number, and I can give you a call. If you're in the Denver area, then can swing by with a Tech II to make quick work of resolving the problem isntead.
hey dano i was having this same problem and for the life of me cannot figure it out it won’t let me pm you was wondering if you could pm me your email.
Mine car is doing this. Car has been sitting for over a year.
convertible top does not work properly, lost comms with all the modules, gear selector locks in park, car starts and runs well, was driven for hours today. Was using the accessory over ride to move the gear selector into neutral to start the car. When I went to start it in park no crank, now the car comes out of park perfect, can not turn off radio, turn radio sound down and no screen. Was throwing B1325 code has BCM codes active now.
I am new to working on corvette's can anyone help? what I have read was bad BCM.
Walk in the part, and if you can fire the relay to start the car, then problem is that the BCM is not sending the final start command to fire the relay in the first place.
So conditions for the BCM to send the start command to fire the relay once you push the start button,
RCDLR seeing the fob in the car, and if RCDLR does not see the fob, you will get fob not found in the DIC
Shifter assembly showing the lever in park.
Hence shifter has front contact switches that tells the BCM that the BCM is in park when the lever is all the way forward. To see if the lever contact switch needs to be adjusted, then just push the lever hard forward when you try to start the car, and if this starts the car, then will need to adjust the micro switch lever.
The second one is that you have to have your foot on the brake pedal pushing it down.
Tech II will make short work of this, since you can go into BCM data to make sure that the brake pedal sensor is working correctly, if not, then do a BPS relearn if the U of the switch has worn isntead. Hence Brake pedal switch is not a on/off type switch, but a resitance switch that are not the same from switch to switch. So car needs to first lean the pedal not touched resitance, then pedal pressed down resitance next. To see if the pedal needs a relearn or replacement with relearn, Push the lower side of the starter button for 5 seconds to get the car into run mode/motor off, press the brake pedal down the normal amount that you are when starting the car and have someone see if the brake lights are coming on.
Hence if dials are sweeping, then BCM does have the car in run mode to start with (why you can jump the relay and car starts), but waiting on the Brake pedal push with trans in park conformation. before it going to send the signal for the relay to spin the starter.
And yes, if you replace the brake pedal sensor, will need to do a BPS relearn of the sensor to the car. the pedal untouched is easy to program in since you don't touch it, while when you do the pedal press to program that in, only press the pedal enough to just lightly get into the brakes, since your not going to be two footing the pedal to start the car.
As for run crank relay on the BCM, its on the bottom side of the module with the back up lights relay if the tech II is both showing that the trans is in park, and the brake is being pushed enough for the BCM, but relay is still not firing.
Lastly, if you are going to wrench on the car at all, then you need a Tech II.
If you have a laptop, then VX GM Nano will cover you for a tech II clone, and cost $109 https://www.amazon.com/VXDIAG-Multip.../dp/B01NACTAY8
Drop me a IM when you get it, and can get you squared away on installing the needed software on your laptop to get it to work correctly from the start.
As for no communication with the ECM, if the car started (not just cranked when you jumped the starter relay), then BCM is communicating with the ECM, and problem will be between the OBDII port and the BCM itself. hence have seen this a few times, where you need to clean the obdII port, and even pull the BCM connectors (battery disconnected) to clean them as well. Worse case if the HVAC box drain line clogged and it leaked water on the BCM out of the box as the box over flowed with water instead of draining out through the drain line, may have to pull the BCM board to clean up the Header pins,trances, and fuse relay clips on the board (maybe even a little re-soldering as well)
P.S, list your location since maybe someone close around you that knows the C6's to give you a hand, Hence your problem is easy to solve once you figure out the problem with a tech II, and in most cases, don't even need new parts. Hence if BPS just has a worn side on the U slot, BPS relearn will solve that until you get a new one to replace it. Getting to the shifter switch lever is no joy, but once you know its the problem, then pretty straight forward to bend the switch lever to fix it. Hell, Tech II will tell you if the BCM is sending the start command in the first place to crank the relay, so tells you if the problem is just the wiring itself. Hence may just need to pull the ECM connector (battery disconnected as well) to spray electrical clean then instead.
The black connectors on the silver box is the ECM and its connectors, while the blue connector you see, is the TCM and its connector on the back side of the ECM.
If you need to talk, then click on my name to the left to send me a PM or email with name and phone number, and I can give you a call. If you're in the Denver area, then can swing by with a Tech II to make quick work of resolving the problem isntead.
good afternoon. I tried to pm you but I don’t have access.
so 2005 corvette m6. Car wouldn’t start. I unplugged clutch switch turned car to on position and jumped the relay, starter worked but wouldn’t stay running. Clapped the crank relay on the back of the bcm and car started normally. Well this would work 20-40 starts untill it didn’t anymore, swapped relays works fine.
well this last time I swapped over about 6 different relays for the crank relay and it just would start. After a few times messing with it now the cluster doesn’t turn on at all, door locks don’t work and neither door opens. The radio also stays on so I have to leave the battery unplugged so I don’t ruin that. I’m assuming it’s a bad bcm now. I have a used one out of another 2005 and I’m wondering if vins stick and they can’t program? I called the dealer and it’s 220 to flash the new one he just stated that a bin could be locked in or stored and won’t be able to program. Any knowledge with any of this?
Mine car is doing this. Car has been sitting for over a year.
convertible top does not work properly, lost comms with all the modules, gear selector locks in park, car starts and runs well, was driven for hours today. Was using the accessory over ride to move the gear selector into neutral to start the car. When I went to start it in park no crank, now the car comes out of park perfect, can not turn off radio, turn radio sound down and no screen. Was throwing B1325 code has BCM codes active now.
I am new to working on corvette's can anyone help? what I have read was bad BCM.
