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Lets back it up, and what RPOs on the car (onstar or XM radio one of them), and is there an after market stereo, module, or GM pal in the car as well?
Hence Onstar, even without an account, will still try to phone home at off hours, and will not give up until it does connect home. Xm will pull the same trick from time to time as well, even through you don't have an account with them, and both will keep the BCM out of sleep mode as well.
As for after market stereo, have seen problems with the I simple devices that are still searching for a Blue tooth device when the BCM does send the sleep mode, and will kill the radio to send it into sleep mode, but the module stays on trying still find the a Blue tooth device, which keep the BCM active and out of sleep mode as well.
The last one, there is an BCM firmware update (and few other modules) for the 2005, that did solve that year C6 problem of not going into sleep mode when it was supposed to as well. Hence one would think that in all these years, it would have the BCM firmware updates flashed, but have seen 2005's that even the OEM radio has not even been update flashed to solve the static problems as well.
You don't list your location, but if in the Denver areas, we can hook up to get you sorted out, including flashing the BCM (and even OEM radio if needed) with the updated software if its just a BCM problem of not going into sleep mode due not having the updated firmware alone. Also, have a Tech II, so makes short work of getting the root of the problem on modules not going to sleep. Some times, it just boils down to questionable connection on the SP205 and SP206 spice joints of the serial 2 bus that the modules are not getting the sleep mode command on shut down, while other times, its questionable connections of the ground splice block and actual final ground points, the reason that some modules are not getting the sleep command on shut down/not going to sleep instead.
This may have nothing to do with your issue but there are several posts regarding this. 2005 Corvettes MUST be parked with shifter in reverse to stop battery drain. This is a quote from member johnodrake 02-03-2011. "The Feds mandated that those cars be parked in reverse for safety reasons. The reason for the battery drain is the system would alert you to park in reverse and would wait for the action, not completing the shut-down - thus the battery drain."
This may have nothing to do with your issue but there are several posts regarding this. 2005 Corvettes MUST be parked with shifter in reverse to stop battery drain. This is a quote from member johnodrake 02-03-2011. "The Feds mandated that those cars be parked in reverse for safety reasons. The reason for the battery drain is the system would alert you to park in reverse and would wait for the action, not completing the shut-down - thus the battery drain."
Original posting stated he had shifter in Reverse....
Lets back it up, and what RPOs on the car (onstar or XM radio one of them), and is there an after market stereo, module, or GM pal in the car as well?
Hence Onstar, even without an account, will still try to phone home at off hours, and will not give up until it does connect home. Xm will pull the same trick from time to time as well, even through you don't have an account with them, and both will keep the BCM out of sleep mode as well.
As for after market stereo, have seen problems with the I simple devices that are still searching for a Blue tooth device when the BCM does send the sleep mode, and will kill the radio to send it into sleep mode, but the module stays on trying still find the a Blue tooth device, which keep the BCM active and out of sleep mode as well.
The last one, there is an BCM firmware update (and few other modules) for the 2005, that did solve that year C6 problem of not going into sleep mode when it was supposed to as well. Hence one would think that in all these years, it would have the BCM firmware updates flashed, but have seen 2005's that even the OEM radio has not even been update flashed to solve the static problems as well.
You don't list your location, but if in the Denver areas, we can hook up to get you sorted out, including flashing the BCM (and even OEM radio if needed) with the updated software if its just a BCM problem of not going into sleep mode due not having the updated firmware alone. Also, have a Tech II, so makes short work of getting the root of the problem on modules not going to sleep. Some times, it just boils down to questionable connection on the SP205 and SP206 spice joints of the serial 2 bus that the modules are not getting the sleep mode command on shut down, while other times, its questionable connections of the ground splice block and actual final ground points, the reason that some modules are not getting the sleep command on shut down/not going to sleep instead.
Sorry for the delay, we were out of town for the holidays.
The OnStar device is not equipped (or at least not located where threads on this forum say it should be located), and there is no fuse plugged into its socket on the BCM.
The radio is the stock radio, with the CD player but not the NAV screen. The radio functions fine, but there is an error message about a mechanical failure if you try to switch it to play CDs.
A friend of mine who works as a mechanic has suggested that even pulling all of the fuses and relays from the BCM might not be eliminating some wake-up message from another module as well, but I don’t know how that would be possible with everything disconnected from the unit except for the connector with the three hot wires coming in from the underhood fuse box. He also said I need to hook it up to a Tech 2 in order to be certain it’s the BCM and not another module.
I live in north central Arkansas, quite a ways from Denver, friend. However, I have discovered that I can buy a Tech 2 unit online for less than what the local dealership wants to charge just to hook it up. Are they difficult to use?
The Nano is a MDI clone, and will come with cracked Tech2win software to use on the laptop.
So Tech2win works just like the software on the hand held Tech II (and Clone) unit, but you use the laptop and it buttons for Tech II program instead. I.e, big screen on laptop, works with the mouse/key board/touch screen, and you don't have to wear your cheater glasses to read the small screen on the hand held Tech II instead.
Plus, since the Nano is a MDI clone that can run it cracked Tech2 win, it can also run the newer GDS2 software for the newer GM cars (2014 and up) as well. Hence comes with a cracked version of GDS2, so you don't need a GM account to use either of these programs.
Lastly, since nano is a Mdi clone, works with TDS. Tis2000, if TIS2000 does not have the needed files to flash a module. The standard cracked version of TIS2000 only goes to 2009 and for a car after that, would need a TDS $40 account if you need to flash module software to a new module instead.
Bottom line, for personal use, the Nano is about the best thing going right now.
As for the MDI 2 clones you may come across, they are not anywhere near the power of the real MDI 2's (do not have the real MDI chip set).
All they are is just MDI 1 (like the nano) with slower chip and less memory than a real MDI 2, but have wifi card soldered on to them, and their header information is changed to Mdi-2.
As for wifi, you can get the Nano with Wifi for around $10 more, but is a PITA, since without the cable off the computer, car OBDII has to be in Acc mode on some models to energize the Nano in the first place,before you can connect. When you go to cycle the car off, and then back on (kills the power to the obdii port on some cars), the nano will drop out in Tech II win, and you have to restart Tech II win once the nano does have power again from the OBDII port. Hence have both standard and wifi Nano's, and when running the wifi Nano, will run it off the cable for this reason alone.
I do not have a laptop or PC, our house switched over to iPads years ago. Will the Nano work with an iPad, or is Windows required to run the program?
Will need a windows machine running at least windows 7 (10 would be better) and best to have a multi core processor on it so you can run TIS2000 In VM (one core to run windows, and the second core to run VM under windows). Being that a used laptop with dual core and able to run window 10 will set you about $100, then you still have the $109 for the Nano, may be better to just look at one of the hand held Tech II clone units.
The glitch in this, is if you needed flash a new module with firmware, would be back at either a win 10 machine to run Tis2000, or TDS on line, with the tech II just used as the pass through device from the car to the laptop.
If we can find a $100 laptop, it would still be cheaper to go with the Nano than the Tech 2 by ~ $25-$50.
Is Tech2Win easy to use? I am completely unfamiliar with this process, it’s going to be a learning experience for us. Hopefully the boy’s computer skills are up to snuff, I cut down trees for a living.
Will need a windows machine running at least windows 7 (10 would be better) and best to have a multi core processor on it so you can run TIS2000 In VM (one core to run windows, and the second core to run VM under windows). Being that a used laptop with dual core and able to run window 10 will set you about $100, then you still have the $109 for the Nano, may be better to just look at one of the hand held Tech II clone units.
The glitch in this, is if you needed flash a new module with firmware, would be back at either a win 10 machine to run Tis2000, or TDS on line, with the tech II just used as the pass through device from the car to the laptop.
Ok, took your advice and ordered the Nano yesterday. Also grabbed a cheap laptop at the pawn shop that will meet system requirements.
I will update the thread, and probably ask a bunch of questions, when the Nano arrives next week.
My late husband and I bought a brand new, 2005 C-6 Corvette, 6-speed Manual Coupe, from Kerbeck’s in Atlantic City to celebrate our 25th Anniversary. It has all the bells and whistles and has been a source of wonderful memories. I do drive the car and enjoy it immensely.
Living in Northeast Ohio, I garage the car in an un-heated space in my local facility. One of my brothers would help me to get the car to the facility, hook up the battery tender, etc. and I would park it and take it off the road on November 1, and then return on March 30 and start it up and it was good to go.
Last year, April 2020, the car was dead as a mackerel. I called AAA who sent a flatbed trailer and had it brought to the local dealership, Serpentini’s in Strongsville, Ohio. They diagnosed the problem as needing a new battery, which was installed.
This past November, my son and I again brought the car to the storage facility and hooked it up to the battery tenders, etc. This time, we would return every 2 weeks and I would start the car and let it run for 10 - minutes or so. On the third time of visiting the facility, the car would not turn over, and the battery drained considerably. Mind you, the car exhibited “full panel” colors, but did display “Ice Possible” on the DIC.
We bought industrial strength battery tenders, and went to try to jump the car and the battery drained immediately. It would seem to be a case of trying to keep a car in a ice cold, unheated space appears to be the issue. At this point, my plan is to leave it there until Spring, call the tow folks and take it back to the dealership, let them work their magic. Then, in the Fall, I will keep the car here in my heated, fully finished garage sitting next to the 1912 Model T, and bring the F-250 to the driveway.
I have since learned that for some reason, the 2005 C-6 cars had major electrical issues that oftentimes caused great frustration to owners. I think that I am one of those people! However, we cannot figure out why the battery drained so quickly, even though it was parked in Reverse, etc.
Your thoughts, questions and comments are greatly appreciated.
My late husband and I bought a brand new, 2005 C-6 Corvette, 6-speed Manual Coupe, from Kerbeck’s in Atlantic City to celebrate our 25th Anniversary. It has all the bells and whistles and has been a source of wonderful memories. I do drive the car and enjoy it immensely.
Living in Northeast Ohio, I garage the car in an un-heated space in my local facility. One of my brothers would help me to get the car to the facility, hook up the battery tender, etc. and I would park it and take it off the road on November 1, and then return on March 30 and start it up and it was good to go.
Last year, April 2020, the car was dead as a mackerel. I called AAA who sent a flatbed trailer and had it brought to the local dealership, Serpentini’s in Strongsville, Ohio. They diagnosed the problem as needing a new battery, which was installed.
This past November, my son and I again brought the car to the storage facility and hooked it up to the battery tenders, etc. This time, we would return every 2 weeks and I would start the car and let it run for 10 - minutes or so. On the third time of visiting the facility, the car would not turn over, and the battery drained considerably. Mind you, the car exhibited “full panel” colors, but did display “Ice Possible” on the DIC.
We bought industrial strength battery tenders, and went to try to jump the car and the battery drained immediately. It would seem to be a case of trying to keep a car in a ice cold, unheated space appears to be the issue. At this point, my plan is to leave it there until Spring, call the tow folks and take it back to the dealership, let them work their magic. Then, in the Fall, I will keep the car here in my heated, fully finished garage sitting next to the 1912 Model T, and bring the F-250 to the driveway.
I have since learned that for some reason, the 2005 C-6 cars had major electrical issues that oftentimes caused great frustration to owners. I think that I am one of those people! However, we cannot figure out why the battery drained so quickly, even though it was parked in Reverse, etc.
Your thoughts, questions and comments are greatly appreciated.
I garage the car in an un-heated space in my local facility.
Kathie
Bank that the outlets you are using for the tender, are switched on and off with the lights, and why the tender is not keeping the battery topped off.
So if you can not find an outlet that is live 24/7, then may be easier to just disconnect the battery, then re-conned it when you are ready to bring the car out of storage. You are able to open the rear hatch rear cylinder lock above the license plates, use the lever on the left hand side to open the drivers door, then open the hood once you are in the car to reconnect the battery.
