I have a 2012 grand sport convertible what is the best way to bleed and change fluid I am doing the brakes it has 27,000 miles on it

 

Not a great video.

You do not need to half fill the collection bottle with clean fluid. Start with an empty container. The old fluid coming out will submerse the drain tube end. The collection bottle has to be vented i.e. loosen the cap.

Use a syringe to remove the old fluid from the reservoir before you even start and refill with clean fluid.

I use speed bleeders to make it a one person job.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motive-BLAC...wAAOSwZ0NZcCpq


Easy one man job with this pressure bleeder

LR-RF ...RR-LF bleed inner port first then outer
With out a tech2 or other scanner to activate ABS system . you can take car out and activate brakes. Causing ABS to work and then repeat bleeding to get out all old fluid out of ABS system.

 

Since you need to cycle the ABS pump to get the old fluid out of it,

start with sucking the old fluid out of the tank, fill with new fluid, and with a power bleeder on the tank to pressurize it, back passenger caliber first to flow fluid until it comes out clean, then go to the passenger front caliber to flow it until fresh fluid comes out clean. This will have fresh fluid to the ABS pump to start with.

Now Tech II to first do an automated brake bleed process to get the old fluid abs pump. Once you have gone through the automated brake bleed process to get new fluid into the ABS pump and valves, then now go back and do a standard pressurize brake bleed to flush the old fluid still in the lines after the abs pump, out of the calibers.

Now this is the last importation step, and how to end up with a rock solid brake pedal in the end.

Leave the power bleeder on the tank with about 15lbs of pressure, and have someone do a brake pedal pump up, the brake pedal pumps with hard jabby type pumps so it knocks the air bubbles off the caliber plungers, hold the pedal down on the last jab as they call out that the pedal is being held, then loosen the caliber bleed valve with clear hose on it just enough that you can look for air bubbles coming out/get it tightened back up before the brake pedal gets all the way down to the floor board.

If you see air bubble as you are working your way back to front on the final jabby pedal pump bleeding, have them do another jabby pump up, and redo that caliber when you are there. Hence will do the hard jabby pump-up and pedal hold down at least 3 times per caliber, and at least 2 more times after it runs clean out the vale with no air bubbles. Most time the first pump up only has air bubble, but have seen it for at least 4 more bleeder cracks still have air bubble, and do not leave that caliber until the last two bleeder crack where without bubbles.
And find someone with leg strength, since they need to pump the pedal in a fashion hard and quick enough that is going to knock any air bubbles off the caliper plunger seals at the calibers end of line.


As for amount of fluid to do a true flush the above method, I go through about a quart of fluid.

 

Thank you for the advice I will keep you posted

 

Don't turn it into rocket science.

- There's no need to worry about the ABS unless you've opened the system up....ie you replaced the ABS pump, a line that connects to it, etc. There's so little fluid in there that it has no material impact on performance. 8 years of C6 and C7 ownership with extensive track use (Advanced and Time Trials) and I have Never had to bleed the ABS. 15 years of C4 ownership with extensive track use and I Never had to bleed the ABS.
- The Motive bleeder is a good recommendation. Do not fill it with fluid. You'll only use it to pressurize the system
- As mentioned above, suck the old fluid out of the Master Cylinder and then fill with new fluid before pressurizing with the Motive
- Unless you have a lift, jack the rear and bleed both sides. Inside bleeder and then outside bleeder on each caliper. Lower the rear and repeat the process on the front. As mentioned above, the system is diagonal...RR / LF and LR / RF....which is why you can bleed the two rears and then the two fronts.
Lower the car, top off the Master, and you're done.
- Press the brake pedal a few times to make sure you have everything sealed up

I don't know what "caliber plungers" are, but I can assure you that you don't have air around the caliper pistons via a simple bleed. Perhaps with a C3 since they were notorious for leaky piston seals due to rusty/pitted bores, but not a C6.

Be sure to watch the Master Cylinder fluid level and top off as needed. I usually top off after each caliper. For a full bleed I'll run 750-1000ml through the system.

Even if the pressure from the Motive bleeder drops to zero, you'll be fine unless someone is in the car pumping the brake pedal. That aside, with no pressure you have the equivalent of a gravity bleed.

Lastly, you'll see posts by people wringing their hands and breaking out in cold sweats because they see bubbles in the bleeder tube that goes from the caliper bleeder to the catch can. As long as you have pressure at the Master from the Motive bleeder, all you're seeing is air entering the bleeder tube because it's not 100% sealed against the caliper bleeder.

 

.what Jim said.....

 

and again we have to correct ole DANO this is the bleed pattern for a C6 LR-RF ...RR-LF AND it's CALIPER NOT CALIBER, and never touch the brake pedal or clutch pedal WHILE your bleeding.