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Fried ECU?

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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 02:38 AM
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Default Fried ECU?

I was driving down the highway yesterday in my 06 and my dash completely shut down. The only gauge that was reading was the volt meter for the battery. I pulled over, shut the car off, and when I went to restart it, it clicked once and never turned over. The dash also took about 10 seconds to actually turn on. I tried plugging my code reader into the OBD II, but it said it wouldn’t connect to the ECU and wouldn’t pull any codes. Before I shut the car off, it was running fine, didn’t sound weird or anything, but once I shut it off it wouldn’t even crank. I checked all the fuses, all the relays, they’re all good (and all brand new). The alternator, battery, fuse box, starter, and battery wiring harness have all been replaced in the last year and a half. Has anyone had a problem like this before? Any help would be much appreciated!
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mrmusic94
I was driving down the highway yesterday in my 06 and my dash completely shut down. The only gauge that was reading was the volt meter for the battery. I pulled over, shut the car off, and when I went to restart it, it clicked once and never turned over. The dash also took about 10 seconds to actually turn on. I tried plugging my code reader into the OBD II, but it said it wouldn’t connect to the ECU and wouldn’t pull any codes. Before I shut the car off, it was running fine, didn’t sound weird or anything, but once I shut it off it wouldn’t even crank. I checked all the fuses, all the relays, they’re all good (and all brand new). The alternator, battery, fuse box, starter, and battery wiring harness have all been replaced in the last year and a half. Has anyone had a problem like this before? Any help would be much appreciated!
Your car has a power problem - either a weak battery or a loose connection. Why was the entire charging/power system replaced?
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by torquetube
Your car has a power problem - either a weak battery or a loose connection. Why was the entire charging/power system replaced?
The car sat for a while before I got a hold of it, and something was pulling power if I let it sit for more than a few days. The battery was pretty old so I replaced it and found the cables were pretty nasty, so I replaced those too (battery cables going to the starter, fuse box. And the grounds). The I noticed that there were quite a few loose fuses in the fuse box after I couldn’t get my fog lights to stay on, so I figured while I was replacing everything I might as well do that too. That was all about 5 or 6 months ago and it never had a power draw problem again. The starter I replaced a year and a half ago because the car has long tubes and the starter took a beating from the heat, and would crank super super slow when the engine was hot. The alternator I did a month or so after the starter because I noticed lights started flickering and the battery wasn’t quite getting a full charge, so I replaced it too before it got worse.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 03:22 AM
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From your story you must know your way around the electrical system. But you have not said what the battery voltage is now or if you have checked for loose connections.

Like Mr tube has asked , have you and if not you might start there. Also you might check the fusible links located at the starter solenoid while checking connections.

Last edited by HK770; Jan 16, 2021 at 03:42 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 08:05 AM
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If you have a “ No Comm” with just the ECU you should check it’s powers and grounds first ...I’ll have to see if I can find the pin outs for an ‘06 but if someone has them maybe they can post them here !!...there are usually 2 power sources for the engine computer and if you do have a power issue that may lead you to it...the ECU is giving you a hint !!

Last edited by C5 Diag; Jan 16, 2021 at 09:04 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 08:39 AM
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First 2 things to check when you start having issues like this: load test the battery, and check the large plugs under the passenger floorboard to make sure they are fully seated.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by HK770
From your story you must know your way around the electrical system. But you have not said what the battery voltage is now or if you have checked for loose connections.

Like Mr tube has asked , have you and if not you might start there. Also you might check the fusible links located at the starter solenoid while checking connections.
The battery voltage was showing 12.2 when I checked it, and all of the connections seemed tight. The only ones I couldn’t get to were the ones on the starter because the long tubes are in the way. I’ll see if I can get it up in the air today and take a look.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
If you have a “ No Comm” with just the ECU you should check it’s powers and grounds first ...I’ll have to see if I can find the pin outs for an ‘06 but if someone has them maybe they can post them here !!...there are usually 2 power sources for the engine computer and if you do have a power issue that may lead you to it...the ECU is giving you a hint !!
I appreciate it! What was also weird that I didn’t mention before is that when the tow truck got there, we tried to push start the car, and you could hear one or two cylinders firing, but the car wouldn’t fire up...which leads me to believe the ECU has got to at least be providing ignition and trying to fire the cylinders.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BadAV
First 2 things to check when you start having issues like this: load test the battery, and check the large plugs under the passenger floorboard to make sure they are fully seated.
I checked all of the connections under the floorboard, and they’re all right, I checked every fuse, and unplugged the two large connectors and plugged them back in, but it didn’t make a difference. I’m hoping that battery isn’t already bad, it’s only about 5 months old 😅
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by mrmusic94
The battery voltage was showing 12.2 when I checked it, and all of the connections seemed tight. The only ones I couldn’t get to were the ones on the starter because the long tubes are in the way. I’ll see if I can get it up in the air today and take a look.
12.2V is seriously low

Last edited by grpweld; Jan 16, 2021 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by grpweld
12.2V is seriously low
Only 50% charge according to my sources.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by grpweld
12.2V is seriously low
doesnt a good battery read between 12.2 and 12.6 volts when the car is off?
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 12:17 PM
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Is 12.2v under a load or a no-load reading? Start position or ACC or totally off?
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by pcguy2u
Is 12.2v under a load or a no-load reading? Start position or ACC or totally off?
no load. I have 12.2-12.3v at both the battery and the fuse box.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 12:31 PM
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If you have a battery load tester (Harbor Freight has a 100 amp one that is ok and cheap), test the battery with the positive cable removed. If nothing else, charge the battery for a day or so (positive cable removed) and test again with the positive cable removed.

Last edited by pcguy2u; Jan 16, 2021 at 12:33 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmusic94
doesnt a good battery read between 12.2 and 12.6 volts when the car is off?
no , good battery should be 12.6 minimum
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by grpweld
no , good battery should be 12.6 minimum
When the battery is fully charged and idle/disconnected/no load.
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Old Jan 17, 2021 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by pcguy2u
When the battery is fully charged and idle/disconnected/no load.
But even if the battery is low, the car should still start when I try to jump it right? When its connected to cables it still won’t even try to crank.
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 06:59 AM
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Correct, the car should start when the jumper cables are attaching a second battery.
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Ep1429
Correct, the car should start when the jumper cables are attaching a second battery.
I have seen a battery with a shorted cell that had good surface voltage but would not allow amperage flow, even with jumper cables hooked up and the donor car running. You really should verify that the battery is good with a load test. You are currently guessing it is good because it is only 5 months old.

Last edited by BadAV; Jan 18, 2021 at 07:33 AM.
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