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I was driving down the highway yesterday in my 06 and my dash completely shut down. The only gauge that was reading was the volt meter for the battery. I pulled over, shut the car off, and when I went to restart it, it clicked once and never turned over. The dash also took about 10 seconds to actually turn on. I tried plugging my code reader into the OBD II, but it said it wouldn’t connect to the ECU and wouldn’t pull any codes. Before I shut the car off, it was running fine, didn’t sound weird or anything, but once I shut it off it wouldn’t even crank. I checked all the fuses, all the relays, they’re all good (and all brand new). The alternator, battery, fuse box, starter, and battery wiring harness have all been replaced in the last year and a half. Has anyone had a problem like this before? Any help would be much appreciated!
I was driving down the highway yesterday in my 06 and my dash completely shut down. The only gauge that was reading was the volt meter for the battery. I pulled over, shut the car off, and when I went to restart it, it clicked once and never turned over. The dash also took about 10 seconds to actually turn on. I tried plugging my code reader into the OBD II, but it said it wouldn’t connect to the ECU and wouldn’t pull any codes. Before I shut the car off, it was running fine, didn’t sound weird or anything, but once I shut it off it wouldn’t even crank. I checked all the fuses, all the relays, they’re all good (and all brand new). The alternator, battery, fuse box, starter, and battery wiring harness have all been replaced in the last year and a half. Has anyone had a problem like this before? Any help would be much appreciated!
Your car has a power problem - either a weak battery or a loose connection. Why was the entire charging/power system replaced?
Your car has a power problem - either a weak battery or a loose connection. Why was the entire charging/power system replaced?
The car sat for a while before I got a hold of it, and something was pulling power if I let it sit for more than a few days. The battery was pretty old so I replaced it and found the cables were pretty nasty, so I replaced those too (battery cables going to the starter, fuse box. And the grounds). The I noticed that there were quite a few loose fuses in the fuse box after I couldn’t get my fog lights to stay on, so I figured while I was replacing everything I might as well do that too. That was all about 5 or 6 months ago and it never had a power draw problem again. The starter I replaced a year and a half ago because the car has long tubes and the starter took a beating from the heat, and would crank super super slow when the engine was hot. The alternator I did a month or so after the starter because I noticed lights started flickering and the battery wasn’t quite getting a full charge, so I replaced it too before it got worse.
From your story you must know your way around the electrical system. But you have not said what the battery voltage is now or if you have checked for loose connections.
Like Mr tube has asked , have you and if not you might start there. Also you might check the fusible links located at the starter solenoid while checking connections.
If you have a “ No Comm” with just the ECU you should check it’s powers and grounds first ...I’ll have to see if I can find the pin outs for an ‘06 but if someone has them maybe they can post them here !!...there are usually 2 power sources for the engine computer and if you do have a power issue that may lead you to it...the ECU is giving you a hint !!
First 2 things to check when you start having issues like this: load test the battery, and check the large plugs under the passenger floorboard to make sure they are fully seated.
From your story you must know your way around the electrical system. But you have not said what the battery voltage is now or if you have checked for loose connections.
Like Mr tube has asked , have you and if not you might start there. Also you might check the fusible links located at the starter solenoid while checking connections.
The battery voltage was showing 12.2 when I checked it, and all of the connections seemed tight. The only ones I couldn’t get to were the ones on the starter because the long tubes are in the way. I’ll see if I can get it up in the air today and take a look.
If you have a “ No Comm” with just the ECU you should check it’s powers and grounds first ...I’ll have to see if I can find the pin outs for an ‘06 but if someone has them maybe they can post them here !!...there are usually 2 power sources for the engine computer and if you do have a power issue that may lead you to it...the ECU is giving you a hint !!
I appreciate it! What was also weird that I didn’t mention before is that when the tow truck got there, we tried to push start the car, and you could hear one or two cylinders firing, but the car wouldn’t fire up...which leads me to believe the ECU has got to at least be providing ignition and trying to fire the cylinders.
First 2 things to check when you start having issues like this: load test the battery, and check the large plugs under the passenger floorboard to make sure they are fully seated.
I checked all of the connections under the floorboard, and they’re all right, I checked every fuse, and unplugged the two large connectors and plugged them back in, but it didn’t make a difference. I’m hoping that battery isn’t already bad, it’s only about 5 months old 😅
The battery voltage was showing 12.2 when I checked it, and all of the connections seemed tight. The only ones I couldn’t get to were the ones on the starter because the long tubes are in the way. I’ll see if I can get it up in the air today and take a look.
If you have a battery load tester (Harbor Freight has a 100 amp one that is ok and cheap), test the battery with the positive cable removed. If nothing else, charge the battery for a day or so (positive cable removed) and test again with the positive cable removed.
Correct, the car should start when the jumper cables are attaching a second battery.
I have seen a battery with a shorted cell that had good surface voltage but would not allow amperage flow, even with jumper cables hooked up and the donor car running. You really should verify that the battery is good with a load test. You are currently guessing it is good because it is only 5 months old.