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Harmonic Balancer Replacement

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Old Feb 14, 2021 | 10:41 AM
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Default Harmonic Balancer Replacement

Hey guys,
I was just quoted $1,700 to have the HB replaced on my 2007 Z06. This includes $381.59 for parts (ATI HB). Seems steep to me. Anyone have a good shop in the Raleigh/Durham or Greensboro NC area that might give me a fair price? Maybe this is a fair price......but I seem to have read of people getting this done at a shop for about half of my quote.........

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. BTW. Preventative maintenance for a car with 55,000 miles. Car drives/runs fine.

Thank you in advance.
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Feb 18, 2021, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Jlang1
I apologize for the doubt; I'd love to see you get that done with no lift in 3 hours.... you're one heck of a wrench; I guess I'm just getting slow in my old age!
No worries.

Here are the steps in case anybody was curious:

- jack up the car and remove the front wheels
- remove the two 13mm lower shock bolts on both sides
- remove the four 15mm upper control arm bolts on both sides
- remove the 11mm bolt holding the steering shaft to the steering box
- support the engine either from up top with an engine hoist connected to the heads or with a floor jack down below with a block of wood under the oil pan
- remove the two 18mm nuts at the bottom of the engine mounts
- position a transmission jack under the front cradle
- remove the four 21mm bolts holding the cradle to the frame
- slowly lower the cradle all the way to the ground, adjusting the angle of the jack as necessary to make sure it comes down smoothly without binding up anywhere

At this point the balancer will be staring you in the face but in order to get it off you'll need to lock it somehow. I use the flywheel locking tool shown below. Alternatively, if the car has a manual transmission you can put it in 5th gear and have somebody apply the brakes and parking brake while you attempt to loosen the bolt. Something I don't recommend (although I've done it once before) is placing a large prybar in the teeth of the flywheel to keep it from moving.

After the bolt is out you'll need a balancer puller tool to get it off the crank. I use the same one that the dealership uses as the three arms sit in the slots of the pulley without slipping off. I've had mixed results with the ones you can borrow or rent from parts stores.

If you don't anticipate having to replace it again anytime soon then a stock balancer bolt is fine, otherwise an ARP bolt works well and is reusable.

A lot of people don't like the stock balancer but honestly I've had less trouble with those compared to the crappy ATI one that I have to run due to NHRA rules for my car. On three separate occasions several of the Torx bolts holding the two halves of the balancer together have sheared off.

To install the new balancer you'll need an installation tool to get it on since the new bolt isn't quite long enough. For that I just went to Fastenal and bought a threaded rod (can't remember the thread pitch) along with a couple of large nuts and washers and cut it down to the length I needed.





Old Feb 14, 2021 | 12:49 PM
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Don't know if this helps but I paid $1000 for the labor on a cam swap a few months ago.That price does seem a little high to me.I would definitely check around.You may find a local member on here to help with the swap if you are just doing the balancer.
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Old Feb 14, 2021 | 11:44 PM
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You can save another $200 with the SFI Durabond balancer
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 07:21 AM
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OP, what is the labor per hour rate in your quote and in the area in general?

From my memory this is a 10 hour job with about $500 in parts.
(And may or may not include a 4 wheel alignment.)

Other co-members will know the facts.

Good luck.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Kenny94945
OP, what is the labor per hour rate in your quote and in the area in general?

From my memory this is a 10 hour job with about $500 in parts.
(And may or may not include a 4 wheel alignment.)

Other co-members will know the facts.

Good luck.
The shop that quoted the work charges $125/hr. This does give me a better idea, thank you.

Just a question.......is it easier to change the HB on a C5 vs a C6? I researched old threads trying to find my answers before posting this thread. Most of the threads I found were C5 related and some of those guys said they could have the old HB out in a couple hours......4 hr job.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 10:41 AM
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have to undo rack and slide it half way out of car to passenger side.
I've done it 3 times. lots of stuff to take off and put back together.
I could do a balancer in about 6 hours. if that helps you quote the price.

Last edited by chevyjeff; Feb 15, 2021 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 12:11 PM
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Good time to do a cam shaft!
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 12:31 PM
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A dealership uses book, for labor rate, and that's what they will charge, you might ask for discounts on parts and labor. We use to give good customers from 15 to 20% off parts and labor, to keep the job.
Don't want to loose $$$$.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 01:21 PM
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It's a lot of f---ing work I've done/doing it. Currently doing a HB, heads, cam upgrade on my C6. The amount of stuff that must come out to do the jobs is staggering...



Don't think I'd do it again for less than $1k labor.

Last edited by Orion2011; Feb 15, 2021 at 01:27 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by D-Dub2013
Good time to do a cam shaft!
Good time to do everything. Cam, heads, radiator, water pump anything else that might get upgraded or replaced down the road.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 01:39 PM
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That rate seems a bit excessive. We can do a full cam swap for less then that. That being said it isn't a cake walk of a job. Getting the rack out is a pain but any good mechanic can dispatch it pretty quickly.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by D-Dub2013
Good time to do a cam shaft!
Originally Posted by Orion2011
Good time to do everything. Cam, heads, radiator, water pump anything else that might get upgraded or replaced down the road.
Thanks for that. Agreed. Going to get the water pump swapped and MAYBE the radiator.


So......I just had this car up to RPM in Delaware and had their stage 3 package done. I’m a newbie, and it never dawned on me to have them change the HB while they were in there. Ironically, they changed the HB bolt, but never offered to change the HB. I’m not sure why? I’m a little sad that they didn’t bring up the HB and offer to change it. I’m sure I would have done it.

Lesson learned.

Originally Posted by JUICED1
That rate seems a bit excessive. We can do a full cam swap for less then that. That being said it isn't a cake walk of a job. Getting the rack out is a pain but any good mechanic can dispatch it pretty quickly.


I only wish you were closer. ​​​​​​​

Last edited by Jason71; Feb 15, 2021 at 03:35 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason71
Thanks for that. Agreed. Going to get the water pump swapped and MAYBE the radiator.


So......I just had this car up to RPM in Delaware and had their stage 3 package done. I’m a newbie, and it never dawned on me to have them change the HB while they were in there. Ironically, they changed the HB bolt, but never offered to change the HB. I’m not sure why? I’m a little sad that they didn’t bring up the HB and offer to change it. I’m sure I would have done it.

Lesson learned.



I only wish you were closer.
I would call them and find out why they didn’t recommend changing the HB. Maybe so they could charge you to replace it at a later date??
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 04:07 PM
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They should have definitely talked to you about the HB replacement while they were doing the same labor already.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by farmington
I would call them and find out why they didn’t recommend changing the HB. Maybe so they could charge you to replace it at a later date??
I called them just a few minutes ago. I asked them why in the world they would use a new bolt to put a factory HB with 50k miles on it back on the car......I told them that I would absolutely have had it replaced for ~$400 if they would have just offered. I didn’t know enough at the time to ask about it. They went down the road that “if they started the replacing all the parts with 50k miles, then.......”. I get that, but personally I can’t see putting a brand new bolt on a worn moving part that generally lasts 50k-100k miles.

Originally Posted by D-Dub2013
They should have definitely talked to you about the HB replacement while they were doing the same labor already.


Should have.......could have......but unfortunately didn’t. ​​​​​​​

Last edited by Jason71; Feb 15, 2021 at 04:27 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 05:12 PM
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Yeah their bad for sure, they know the oem HB's are a common wear item, and the original one should never be reinstalled if it ever comes off for any reason.

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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by D-Dub2013
Yeah their bad for sure, they know the oem HB's are a common wear item, and the original one should never be reinstalled if it ever comes off for any reason.

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To Harmonic Balancer Replacement

Old Feb 16, 2021 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason71
GM shows second design on OEM damper. Might be a thought to follow factory install procedure. Kind of how the engine was built.
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason71
Hey guys,
I was just quoted $1,700 to have the HB replaced on my 2007 Z06. This includes $381.59 for parts (ATI HB). Seems steep to me. Anyone have a good shop in the Raleigh/Durham or Greensboro NC area that might give me a fair price? Maybe this is a fair price......but I seem to have read of people getting this done at a shop for about half of my quote.........

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. BTW. Preventative maintenance for a car with 55,000 miles. Car drives/runs fine.

Thank you in advance.
I can do it in my garage in about 3 hours and that's without a lift. Anything more than $400 for labor and you're getting taken advantage of.
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 02:46 PM
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I have a question regarding this process? I see allot of people say you need to pin your crank if you run boost.

Allot of the aftermarket balancers talk about key-ways on the hub. Does pinning the crank and using the key-way the same thing?
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