What's going on guys.. Well it finally happened. The infamous P0601 popped up. First symptoms: 3 weeks ago while going maybe 20 mph I got the "reduce power" message along with the check engine light. I was pulling up to work, so after a few hours I went back to start it up and all was well (no check engine light). 2 weeks later I got it again, but this time the car stalled. After a minute the car fired up along with the check engine light. Car drove just fine to my house. Next day I took it to advance auto for a scan and sure enough the P0601 (fail PCM) came up.

After I left advance the the light was off and the car drove good for the next couple of days. I went ahead and check all the grounds, check the PCM connections, cleaned the TB, had both the alternator and battery checked. A few days later the check engine came back on while I was in a parking lot while the car was in accessory mode (not running). I was able to start it right up and went home. All was well for the next week until I gassed up. After I filled up the "service fuel" message along with the check engine light came on. Fuel gauge keeps going to empty to full. lol

So here's my question. I'm leaning towards getting a new PCM for under 200.00, but my local dealership will not program it unless I take my vehicle to them to have them program and install it. Does this sound right? I know we once had a vendor here "Cow" that would program the our PCM with just having a VIN. Is this still possible?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Raul

 

The stalling plus the gas gauge going to E may be a CAN bus issue involving the PCM but either way if you know how to check power and grounds AT the PCM I’d try that...the FSM just says replace the PCM but I’d check it first

 

Thanks for the quick response. I kid you not I was going to check the voltage at the PCM today, but the PCM is not like the early c6.I removed the tire and the cover, but that bad boy is way up in the fender. That will be my project for next week.

I also forget to mention when I first got the "reduce power" I also had service ABS or something in that nature.

 

The PCM normally has 2 power feeds... a “hot at all times” and an “ignition feed” and a few grounds...best to check the power feeds and grounds while cranking but if this issue is intermittent it may be hard to diagnose...a good diagnostician would have power and grounds hooked up to a scope inside the car as its being driven and see which may be dropping out when the car stalls...I believe Chuck CoW is still active on the Forum !!....good luck !!

 

you try just reseating the connectors yet? sometimes ya gotta blow on em like those nintendo cartridges

 

That would be the first thing I would do. Yank the PCM and take a good look and clean where necessary. Keyboard cleaner will work good on blowing it out so you don't have to lick it like Drew does. LOL! (J/K dude)

 

but it makes my teeth tingle all funny like.....

also.... don't talk **** about my keyboard cleaner... i use it to kill them pesky brain cells...

 

Mmmmmm kiyborad claneer

 

Does that mean he's, uh.....Fuming about it??!!!
Sorry-NOT sorry!!

 

Ya'll are some funny dudes, but I will give it a try. Thanks guys.

 

yeah being an intermittent issue, it may just be a connector or something.... easiest thing to try....

 

Well I couldn't wait till next week to work on it, so I decided to do it today. I took your advice and disconnected the PCM and used some keyboard cleaner and went to town.. So far so good. Took it for a spin this afternoon and just got back. No issues. Fingers crossed. My next project is to remove the rust from the rotors and coat them. Thanks again guys..