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Yesterday I got the dreaded Service Charging System on the DIC. Checked what I could under hood such as lose grounds and connections and checked what I could with a voltmeter. All’s coming in at 14.4+. From reading here it seems solenoid is the likely suspect especially on cars with long tubes(LG).been on car for over ten years and original solenoid. So last night I ordered a new solenoid and it should be here in a day or two. Hopefully that’s what it is, haven’t had the opportunity to get under the car yet.
Question is, how easy is it to get to and how long should it take to replace? Do I have to loosen the header or exhaust to gain access to the solenoid? Thanks
Yesterday I got the dreaded Service Charging System on the DIC. Checked what I could under hood such as lose grounds and connections and checked what I could with a voltmeter. All’s coming in at 14.4+. From reading here it seems solenoid is the likely suspect especially on cars with long tubes(LG).been on car for over ten years and original solenoid. So last night I ordered a new solenoid and it should be here in a day or two. Hopefully that’s what it is, haven’t had the opportunity to get under the car yet.
Question is, how easy is it to get to and how long should it take to replace? Do I have to loosen the header or exhaust to gain access to the solenoid? Thanks
Can just be a loose connection or dirty connection down at the starter solenoid...this is where your B+ from the alternator and your positive battery terminal cable come together...if you take one lead of your voltmeter and put it on the positive battery terminal and the other lead on B+ of the alternator see what you read with the engine running...don’t worry if you see minus voltage...you can switch the leads if you want...should be below .5 volts...now go from the negative lead of the battery to the alternator case...should be close to 0 volts...this is what I see on my 2001...0.072 volts on positive and 0.032 on the negative side...14.4 is a good charging voltage !!...every other year I get under the car and remove all the wires at the solenoid, wire brush, and reinstall..also the negative lead of your battery is down there on the engine block...clean there too !! Negative side Positive side
Thanks for the advice. As per your directive I just checked. Pos to Pos .43 and Neg to Neg .03. Seems to me to fall inside the pass window. Any ideas?
figured it’s a good idea to change out the solenoid anyway. Have had the headers for about 10 years now without any protection for the solenoid/ starter. I did header wrap on the tubes last years to keep the heat off my A6 trans lines and the solenoid and starter but 10 years is an awful long time for that scorching heat on an almost 15 year old solenoid which are prone to heat damage. I’m all ears if you have any suggestions.
Thanks for the advice. As per your directive I just checked. Pos to Pos .43 and Neg to Neg .03. Seems to me to fall inside the pass window. Any ideas?
figured it’s a good idea to change out the solenoid anyway. Have had the headers for about 10 years now without any protection for the solenoid/ starter. I did header wrap on the tubes last years to keep the heat off my A6 trans lines and the solenoid and starter but 10 years is an awful long time for that scorching heat on an almost 15 year old solenoid which are prone to heat damage. I’m all ears if you have any suggestions.
.5 volts is GM’s number (way high by many)but as you can see my voltage drop is not even .1 !!...i like to see .2 to .3 MAX...I’d say get underneath and clean those terminals...make sure the connections at the battery are clean and the B+ terminal at the alternator is clean and tight !!...if you are not having issues with starting the car changing the solenoid isn’t necessary. Do you see your charging voltage decrease when getting the message ?
.5 volts is GM’s number (way high by many)but as you can see my voltage drop is not even .1 !!...i like to see .2 to .3 MAX...I’d say get underneath and clean those terminals...make sure the connections at the battery are clean and the B+ terminal at the alternator is clean and tight !!...if you are not having issues with starting the car changing the solenoid isn’t necessary. Do you see your charging voltage decrease when getting the message ?
I’ll definitely get under it and take care of what needs to be corrected I just can’t get it done to next week, hopefully. Car is a weekend car with about 50k miles and sees very little rain. Everything topside looks good and is tight but I’ll look underside when I can get it up.
two times last week I got the service charging system warning and both times the gauge dropped to 10-11v. It was very quick, by the time I saw the DIC message and quickly glanced at gauge then looked back at DIC and back at gauge it registered 13-14. A matter of a couple seconds, as if something was loose or the solenoid cracked symptoms I’ve read here. Car is running very well, have maybe 100 miles on it since the first episode.
What is the cause of mine being almost .5v as apposed to your number?
I am new but looking to find out about the conflict in the extra wire that shows up in the manual but is not on many c3 corvettes from battery to alternator.
I am new but looking to find out about the conflict in the extra wire that shows up in the manual but is not on many c3 corvettes from battery to alternator.
You’d be better served posting in the C3 section, this is C6.