When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am new to working on cars and I am in need of some help to install new inner and outer tie rods and I am having some trouble. I got a tool to remove the inner tie rod but I think I need to remove the outer tie rod first. I tried to unscrew the nut on the outer tie rod but it just spins.
any ideas on how to remove the nut and screw that just spins?
Is there a trick to removing the inner tie rod? I did a bit a research and bout an inner tie rod removal tool that should work. Should I remove the outer tie rod first?.
Since you are new to working on cars, below is the step & PIC from the supplied link that you need to loosen the spinning nut:
If you went with an OEM replacement, you can use a hex wrench in the top of the tie rod end bolt to keep it from spinning while you torque it down. If your tie rod end doesn't have this feature, you'll need to put a wrench on the body and hold it as best you can.
Good luck. The procedure also recommends you replace the same part on each side to keep the wear even.
GD
Last edited by gdmoore01; Jul 18, 2021 at 11:02 AM.
Since you are new to working on cars, below is the step & PIC from the supplied link that you need to loosen the spinning nut:
If you went with an OEM replacement, you can use a hex wrench in the top of the tie rod end bolt to keep it from spinning while you torque it down. If your tie rod end doesn't have this feature, you'll need to put a wrench on the body and hold it as best you can.
Good luck. The procedure also recommends you replace the same part on each side to keep the wear even.
GD
Awesome this was exactly what I was looking for. I just discovered Harbor Freight so I will see if I can get an adapter for my ratchet. So stupid question do I still need a ball joint adapter separator?
Don't need a ball joint separator. Take a dead blow hammer and strike the side outside of the arm on the upright, where the tie rod end goes through it. NOT on the tie rod end itself. The hole through the upright arm is tapered and a good whack will cause the tie rod end to pop loose. Whacking the tie rod end itself will mushroom it and make it stuck even worse.
Don't need a ball joint separator. Take a dead blow hammer and strike the side outside of the arm on the upright, where the tie rod end goes through it. NOT on the tie rod end itself. The hole through the upright arm is tapered and a good whack will cause the tie rod end to pop loose. Whacking the tie rod end itself will mushroom it and make it stuck even worse.
If that doesn't work AND the area is not rusted tight. Unscrew the nut just a bit beyond the top of the stud. Then "crisply" strike the nut and the joint will pop loose. Nut will protect the stud from mushrooming.
I've used this method many times and it takes a little practice. The "crisp" strike is sort of a quick shocking blow with a ~ 1lb hammer not a hard as you can hit blow if that makes sense. (You can also use an air hammer with a blunt tool, but most of us DIYers don't have access to that equipment.)
Pack the grease around the inner ball joint that you will then cover with the rubber bellows boot. Your old tie rod must have bent due to previous impact damage on the wheel? Accident damage or hit a curb?
Use the medium strength or "blue" Locktite, not the "red" high strength.
Thanks for the clarification I was going to use the Red high strength but now I will use the blue Loctite. Hopefully, I will get everything put back together today and give it a drive.
Inner and Outer Tie Rod Removal Help
If that doesn't work AND the area is not rusted tight. Unscrew the nut just a bit beyond the top of the stud. Then "crisply" strike the nut and the joint will pop loose. Nut will protect the stud from mushrooming.
