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How in the hell could someone install the wrong cam? Anyone that's been around an LS engine can tell the difference between a stock and any type of stage 3 cam when it first starts up. Lucy, someone's got some 'splainin' to do.
How in the hell could someone install the wrong cam? Anyone that's been around an LS engine can tell the difference between a stock and any type of stage 3 cam when it first starts up. Lucy, someone's got some 'splainin' to do.
Exactly! Whoever did the the tuneup would have to raise the idle, lessen all the adaptives and kick up the timing and even then a decent cam will be idle ALOT different than stock.
How in the hell could someone install the wrong cam? Anyone that's been around an LS engine can tell the difference between a stock and any type of stage 3 cam when it first starts up. Lucy, someone's got some 'splainin' to do.
Million dollar question. I will find out more today.
Exactly! Whoever did the the tuneup would have to raise the idle, lessen all the adaptives and kick up the timing and even then a decent cam will be idle ALOT different than stock.
It definitely explains the 350hp on the dyno though.....lol
It was supposed to be a stage 3, but after measuring the lobes it is closer to stock or stage 1.....Trust me, I am as shocked as anyone else.
Is it a stock cam? The stock LS3 cams (at least the later ones) have a QR code on the actual
shaft. Aftermarket cams always have either the lobe number, the specs--or both etched into back thrust surface--but never a QR code, at least that I am
aware of.
When the cam was installed, it would've needed .100" or more of shims to get coil bind clearance of 0.050"-0.060" with the stock cam--as most aftermarket heads that are using street hydraulic cams seem to be specced with a BTR (or similar) 660 double spring kit.
Last edited by d16dcoe45; Sep 1, 2021 at 12:09 PM.
Is it a stock cam? The stock LS3 cams (at least the later ones) have a QR code on the actual
shaft. Aftermarket cams always have either the lobe number, the specs--or both etched into back thrust surface--but never a QR code, at least that I am
aware of.
When the cam was installed, it would've needed .100" or more of shims to get coil bind clearance of 0.050"-0.060" with the stock cam--as most aftermarket heads that are using street hydraulic cams seem to be specced with a BTR (or similar) 660 double spring kit.
No, it was not a "stock" cam. It was indeed a BTR cam, just with the incorrect grind that was indicated on the packaging. The part number stamped on it even matched.
Just a little update, been a busy couple weeks. Got the cam swapped out for a stage 4 Texas speed F35. Waiting on doing some tuning since the weather here has been "rain" for the last week and looks lie the next week, too. Should be on the dyno come Monday hopefully to finish it up. Car sound healthy as all get out though....Thank the lord. I'll see if I can get the video to attach, if not I will upload to YouTube later and drop the link.
Just a little update, been a busy couple weeks. Got the cam swapped out for a stage 4 Texas speed F35. Waiting on doing some tuning since the weather here has been "rain" for the last week and looks lie the next week, too. Should be on the dyno come Monday hopefully to finish it up. Car sound healthy as all get out though....Thank the lord. I'll see if I can get the video to attach, if not I will upload to YouTube later and drop the link.
you are going to want more converter and rear gear with that cam, otherwise it might wind up being slower. I was slower until I put a matching converter and rear gear in.
you are going to want more converter and rear gear with that cam, otherwise it might wind up being slower. I was slower until I put a matching converter and rear gear in.