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My car is a 2009 C6 base auto trans.
When I bought the car the GM dealer scan it because the Check engine light was on. He told me I need the Vent valve part number 13575703 and the harness 19257603. So we agree he gave me a discount and I will arrange for the replacement of those parts. I did it but light return 1 hour later. I have read here it's often the gas cap the problem, so I bought a new OEM one and it did not solve the problem, I have a code reader it's always the P0449 code, any help would be appreciated.
So are you just looking for what it may be or how to diagnose it yourself ??...the 0449 is a vent valve/control circuit issue so not sure where you saw this could be a bad gas cap ??...the ECM is looking at the voltage on the ground side of the solenoid circuit and if not correct will set the DTC...for a gas cap the ECM is looking at the fuel tank pressure sensor voltage...2 different systems basically....your issue could be no power to the vent valve solenoid, a bad vent valve or the wire that the ECM grounds to activate the solenoid or even a bad ECM...a very easy DTC to diagnose but hopefully the shop that diagnosed it or tried to fix it knew what they were doing !!...find yourself a diagnostic shop.
I will find a place with good diagnostic tools. I was trying to solve the problem by myself with the help of forum members.
All you really need to diagnose this yourself is a 12 volt test light and a bi directional scan tool to energize the ground side of your circuit as you may have seen in the video…once the power and ground of the connector are checked and are OK it’s probably a bad vent valve..so you ordered just the pigtail for the connector ??…you can check the new vent valve to make sure it’s good by applying power and ground to the solenoid…it should “click”…just because it’s a new vent valve doesn’t mean it’s good.
The only thing I can tell you is to check the new vent valve and change it if it is not operating correctly by testing…if you don’t understand how it works you won’t be able to diagnose it correctly…if there is a new valve and harness as you have pointed out best bet is to take it to a “diagnostic” shop and not a repair shop if there is one in your area….changing brakes and oil is one thing but diagnosing cars is a whole different animal !!…good luck my friend !!
I want to make sure I understand what is going on. You had a P0449 code, replaced the old vent solenoid with a new one P/N 13575703, cleared the code with your scanner, and one hour later the check engine light came on and the reader showed a new code of P0449?
The code clear itself but 1 hour later it came back same code P0449. After that I put a new OEM gas cap but I still have the same code P0449.
P0449 indicates there is blockage in the vent solenoid and/or corresponding hose. The vent solenoid allows fresh air to be pulled into the EVAP canister. If you still have the old solenoid, you can test to see if it is open by blowing through where the hose connects to it. If you can blow through it, it is open and okay. From the solenoid, the hose goes a short distance to the EVAP canister. You can access the EVAP canister through the right rear wheel well by removing the tire and the inner liner. There is a small rubber cover over the access opening, circled in photo below. Disconnect the large rubber hose from the EVAP canister and blow air through it, you should hear air escaping through the vent solenoid, if not you've found the blockage.
Today I have checked the new valve and blow in it and put 12 volts on the terminals, everything is ok. Also I have remove the right rear wheel well and blow in the hose of the EVAP canister too, Everything looks ok althought I still have the P0449 code.
Today I have checked the new valve and blow in it and put 12 volts on the terminals, everything is ok. Also I have remove the right rear wheel well and blow in the hose of the EVAP canister too, Everything looks ok althought I still have the P0449 code.
As I had mentioned before this DTC says “control circuit” in it which means it’s an electrical issue or a bad solenoid…if a DTC says “circuit high” that tells me it may be an “open in the circuit…if it says “circuit low” that may be a short to ground and usually on a 5 volt reference wire…you may have no idea what this means…with the vent valve connector unplugged you need to check for 12 volts on the red/white wire which is “hot at all times”…it looks like it is powered by fuse 13 (MRRTD)…check the fuse and use a test light…with the test light connected to ground the light will illuminate on both test points on top of the fuse…unfortunately without that bi directional scan too you will NOT be able to energize the ground side of the circuit which is controlled by the engine computer (watch the video)… I used a wiring diagram from a 2012…pic below…
that’s all I can tell you…you may have to bring it to a shop that has that bidirectional scan tool or to a diagnostic shop…they understand how these circuits operate.
My local GM dealer told me they cannot check my corvette because their car lifts cannot lift my car, unbelievable but true, I was shocked.
So I will hunt for a garage with bidirectional scan tool.
My local GM dealer told me they cannot check my corvette because their car lifts cannot lift my car, unbelievable but true, I was shocked.
So I will hunt for a garage with bidirectional scan tool.
WHAT ????…I don’t believe that !!…then tell them to use a floor jack on the right rear to access the vent valve. If a shop does not have a bi directional scan tool (they should also be using a lab scope) they should close their shop and sell hot dogs from a vending cart.
Today my check engine light turned off by itself. I dont know if it's gonna stay off but my dashboard has a better look without that check engine light.