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What is a good tried and true cam to use in my LS2? I want the added performance and a nice loopy idle but not so big that I have to add a stall converter. Thanks in advance.
I'm not a fan of big cams in street cars....but, you can go bigger than the one being discussed here without any adverse effects. I'm running a bigger cam in a 5.3L truck with A4 transmission. I'm about to start on the Wife's SSR with an LS2 under the hood. It will probably get something like a 224/228 115 LSA or a 225/230 115 Cam Motion custom cam. Your best bet would be to get Pat G. to spec you a cam before you make an expensive mistake. It will be the best 40 bucks you'll spend on your Vette. Get the cam right the first time because you don't want to do it over.
You won't get any big lope without a much bigger cam. Big enough to need a higher stall converter. You can get the tuner to do some tricks to roughen up the idle a bit, but the big lope won't be there without a much bigger cam (more overlap).
Stock converter & big cams, just went thru that with a 53 Chevy pu hot rod....2010 GMC 5.3L A6 donor. The owner had no idea what he was getting into, called Comp for their recommendation's & ended up with 9* of overlap. I spent many hours trying to get it to drive civilized @ an idle rpm of 650....it still has a small attitude @ times. Never call Comp is one lesson here.
The Cam Motion recommendation looks like a good one & I would expect good results. I would certainly suggest you start a discussion with your tuner or who you are planning to use. It will be the tuner that makes the difference between good, bad & ugly.
What causes the nice lopey idle isn't the duration, it's the overlap. You can run a smaller duration with more overlap (i.e., smaller LSA) and get the nice idle and still keep most of your street manners. Comp even has a line of cams called "Thumpr" designed specifically to do that. I looked at one at random for an LS:
Thumpr™ 219/233 Hydraulic Roller Cam for GM LS GEN III/IV Thumpr™™™ - High performance street, stock converter ok, best with 2000+ converter & gears, choppy/thumping idle
The LSA for this particular cam was listed as 109 degrees.
The reason they run such a big exhaust lobe is because they need to generate the overlap you need for the lope while still opening the exhaust valve at the right time. But the point is they've already thought it out for you. No need to experiment on your part.
What causes the nice lopey idle isn't the duration, it's the overlap. You can run a smaller duration with more overlap (i.e., smaller LSA) and get the nice idle and still keep most of your street manners. Comp even has a line of cams called "Thumpr" designed specifically to do that. I looked at one at random for an LS:
Thumpr™ 219/233 Hydraulic Roller Cam for GM LS GEN III/IV Thumpr™™™ - High performance street, stock converter ok, best with 2000+ converter & gears, choppy/thumping idle
The LSA for this particular cam was listed as 109 degrees.
The reason they run such a big exhaust lobe is because they need to generate the overlap you need for the lope while still opening the exhaust valve at the right time. But the point is they've already thought it out for you. No need to experiment on your part.
That's an interesting cam for sure. Checks in at 8* of overlap. Sounds like it would have the lope that the OP is after. If you had a more traditional cam, something like a 228/236 112 would have the same overlap. Would the Thumper cam have better manners with the same overlap? I wonder how the power curves would differ.
What causes the nice lopey idle isn't the duration, it's the overlap. You can run a smaller duration with more overlap (i.e., smaller LSA) and get the nice idle and still keep most of your street manners. Comp even has a line of cams called "Thumpr" designed specifically to do that. I looked at one at random for an LS:
Thumpr™ 219/233 Hydraulic Roller Cam for GM LS GEN III/IV Thumpr™™™ - High performance street, stock converter ok, best with 2000+ converter & gears, choppy/thumping idle
The LSA for this particular cam was listed as 109 degrees.
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This is the exact cam that is in the 5.3L I mentioned @ 650rpm idle you best have your foot firmly on the brake. Coming to a stop is interesting, should I mention idle vacuum for your power brakes?
Far better choices with a minimum 10* less overlap that will make better power.
If the OP or anyone else would like this POS cam it will be on the bench very soon.
This is the exact cam that is in the 5.3L I mentioned @ 650rpm idle you best have your foot firmly on the brake. Coming to a stop is interesting, should I mention idle vacuum for your power brakes?
Far better choices with a minimum 10* less overlap that will make better power.
If the OP or anyone else would like this POS cam it will be on the bench very soon.
Why does it have to idle at 650? My 228/242 115+4 cam idles at 950 and I'm completely happy with it. Has an EXCELLENT lope to the idle, BTW. I do get some cam surge at low speeds, but easily manageable. As far as the vacuum goes, I get 16 inches at idle.
That is a very different cam, less overlap & it is advanced. Rule of thumb is 4.5* overlap before some low speed manners start show ugliness.
Trucks have a tighter stall from I'm told than a car, if that is true......magnifies the overlap condition.
Your cam should drive nicely if it is not trying to pull thru the converter......everyone's tolerance of low speed manners is different. I have zero tolerance of bad low speed manners.
Actually, that Thumpr cam has 6 degrees of advance ground in - the intake centerline was 103 deg - so its low speed manners should be pretty good. I get it that some folks prefer a smooth idle - different strokes and all that - but the OP was looking for a cammy idle on a fairly mild cam, so...
Anyway, went back and found another one that is a bit milder on the overlap: 218/229 with 111 LSA
Last edited by sstonebreaker; Nov 19, 2021 at 03:19 PM.
BTR has a couple of nice offerings as well, I think the truck character will end up well under 0*. For the very slight difference in power his application 95% street cruise.
BTR has posted video's of how the cam shafts sound if that is part of the buying process.....
Choosing a cam based on how it sounds at idle is just silly. Not the absolute worst way to choose a cam, but damn close. 8 degrees of overlap is also just silly for a street cam. It will have plenty of low speed issues and won't make good power on the top end either. As I mentioned in post #4, get in touch with Pat G before making an expensive mistake.
Choosing a cam based on how it sounds at idle is just silly. Not the absolute worst way to choose a cam, but damn close. 8 degrees of overlap is also just silly for a street cam. It will have plenty of low speed issues and won't make good power on the top end either. As I mentioned in post #4, get in touch with Pat G before making an expensive mistake.
You are correct basing a cam off sound is silly. That’s the last thing I want to do. I am very familiar with cams and cam selections on the older engines. I am new to LS motors and am simply asking suggestions of what has worked for others without going to the extreme. I only want to make the purchase once. I may end up adding a converter later but don’t really want to. 99.9% of my driving this car is normal driving on the street/highway with a very occasional trip to the drag strip.
That being said, I would like a loopier idle with increase power gains but still maintain for the most part factory drivability.
Thanks again to all that have chimed in with suggestions.
You are very wise, the owner of the 53 pick up LS conversion was also familiar with cam selection with older carb engines. We are quite rural & in his hot rod community he one of the first to venture into the LS conversion. No idea what cam to go with other than he wanted to eliminate DOD, so he called comp.
Gave them the details of what he was doing & they recommended that POS cam. I never did get it on the dyno, one reason was I was fixated on drivability. His end goal was that the owner of the truck, his wife could drive it with zero issue's or concerns. The truck spec is slightly different than the one mentioned in your thread, it is still +9* of overlap. Then add a tight stock converter, terrible combination.
I was called after the fact, when it would not drive with the stock calibration. It's decent & would be acceptable to some, I'm always amazed what poor manners some accept.
Now he doing what you are trying to avoid, swapping out the cam.
I do have one additional question regarding this. My car cruises around 1500-1700 rpm on the highway. If I was to add, say a 2200-2500 converter. Wouldn’t there be heat issues with the tranny on extended driving?
My old toys the rpm on the highway was always at or above the stall rating due to the gearing I had. Thanks
I do have one additional question regarding this. My car cruises around 1500-1700 rpm on the highway. If I was to add, say a 2200-2500 converter. Wouldn’t there be heat issues with the tranny on extended driving?
My old toys the rpm on the highway was always at or above the stall rating due to the gearing I had. Thanks
If the Trans is tuned right the converter clutch should be locked up when cruising.
I do have one additional question regarding this. My car cruises around 1500-1700 rpm on the highway. If I was to add, say a 2200-2500 converter. Wouldn’t there be heat issues with the tranny on extended driving?
My old toys the rpm on the highway was always at or above the stall rating due to the gearing I had. Thanks
Modern converters lock up. I had a 3500 stall converter in my 96 impala. No heat issues. Car got the exact same highway mileage. City mileage went to ****. Gained over 2 seconds in the quarter on the modified converter alone. One of the best bang for the buck mods you can do for an automatic car.
I am leaning toward the BTR Stage 1. Possibly a stage 2 but I doubt it. Has anyone used the stage 2 with the stock converter? If so, how did the car respond at idle in gear and stopping? Thanks