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LS7 titanium rods coating issue

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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 11:11 AM
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Default LS7 titanium rods coating issue

I was willing to fork over the money to have the heads fixed (and do cam/headers/intake/tune) just to have that added power and "rawness" I hear so much about. Now I'm reading that about the LS7 OEM titanium rod failures due to the anti-friction coatings wears out, allowing the rod big ends to eat into one another causing both bearing failures and titanium "dust" debris to circulate throughout the oiling system.

I know we can test the oil at each change; however, that just tells you when the titanium is wearing off...it's not a cure. Seems the only fix is to replace the rods...certainly not a cheap fix.

I really want a C6Z, but now I'm considering to get a C7Z and deal with the cracking rims issue (easier fix to buy new forged rims verses pulling the motor to replace the rods).

What are C6Z owners doing about this?

Last edited by Budarooski; Feb 5, 2023 at 07:11 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 11:30 AM
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My thinking is that the rod issue is more of a concern with cars that have been run hard. With normal use and regular oil changes, you should be OK for the life of the car. That doesn't help owners that want to have increased horsepower and run their cars hard, though. For those guys, a forged rotating assembly (steel crank and rods, aluminum pistons) should be in the plans. It might even make more sense to get a new short block that already has a forged bottom end.
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Old Dec 5, 2021 | 02:26 PM
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As a 2011 z07 owner I forgot I was supposed to be worried about this. I have fixed heads. When I heard about the rods issue, I thought for sure that was why the previous owner sold it to me. So I got a Blackstone test....not a spec of any titanium or anything to worry about

I'd find a car that wasn't beat on and enjoy it. Nothing in this hobby is bulletproof. Gotta make peace with the worst consequences possible and move on. You could ask sellers if they have oil tests to prove no issue.
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Old Dec 5, 2021 | 05:02 PM
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I experienced firsthand the LS7 rods chewing on themselves because of the coating wearing off. I unfortunately just bought the car at that time and nothing was really giving any hint aside from the oil pressure dropping lower and lower (I stopped trying at 17 psi and left the car at a shop for further analysis). I also did a Blackstone analysis at that time that came out just fine. Once the engine was open, the verdict was clear though: rods were toasted.

Not everyone will have the issue, but it's not specific to a driving style. When it happens, you’re lucky if you catch it before catastrophic failure. Thankfully my block was salvageable and the whole motor is being rebuilt using forged internals for peace of mind.


If I could do it all over again, I would either not buy a Z06 or if I really craved it, I would find one with an engine already gone through bulletproofing - reworked or aftermarket heads along with forged internals. Now that being said, thousands of Z06 drive around without the slightest problem so it's also a big chance factor. My experience conditions my perception of that car, not everyone will feel the same.
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Old Dec 5, 2021 | 05:32 PM
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it's been suggested to use oil with at least 1000ppm zinc
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Old Dec 5, 2021 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by tommyc6z06

it's been suggested to use oil with at least 1000ppm zinc
That's good advice, but there is nowhere on a bottle of oil that tells you how much zinc the oil has in it.

Maybe someone here could post what oils meet this zinc spec, otherwise, this is just useless information.
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Old Dec 5, 2021 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo6TA
That's good advice, but there is nowhere on a bottle of oil that tells you how much zinc the oil has in it.

Maybe someone here could post what oils meet this zinc spec, otherwise, this is just useless information.
Mobile 1 has their info online. I think they have several at that spec
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Old Dec 5, 2021 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo6TA
That's good advice, but there is nowhere on a bottle of oil that tells you how much zinc the oil has in it.

Maybe someone here could post what oils meet this zinc spec, otherwise, this is just useless information.
Here you go...this is Mobil1. The 0w-40FS is a particularly good choice

others, Amsoil, Redline, etc tell you in their product info...
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Old Dec 6, 2021 | 10:50 PM
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I recall reading that the rod coating material was changed in 2011 and newer cars.

2010 cars and older are not affected with this issue.

Is this true?
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Old Dec 7, 2021 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Keppler
I recall reading that the rod coating material was changed in 2011 and newer cars.

2010 cars and older are not affected with this issue.

Is this true?
Not true. Mine is 2007.
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 08:58 PM
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Brad Penn is 1500 ppm zinc if I remember correctly, Amsoil around the same which is what I run.
Just got my LS7 shortblock back from the machine shop and we went with Molnar H beam rods because that titanium rod issue scared me.

Last edited by Raffman55; Dec 8, 2021 at 09:17 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 04:44 PM
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I'm curious about your dealings with Blackstone...they sound very knowledgeable, yet your comments make it sound like their analysis didn't show what was really going on inside of the engine. I've got a 13 427 60th with 19k which I purchased recently. Also, I'm getting ready to send Blackstone a sample of my oil for analysis.
Appreciate any insight.

Thank you

Steve
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Old Jan 24, 2022 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ClothSeats
My thinking is that the rod issue is more of a concern with cars that have been run hard. With normal use and regular oil changes, you should be OK for the life of the car. That doesn't help owners that want to have increased horsepower and run their cars hard, though. For those guys, a forged rotating assembly (steel crank and rods, aluminum pistons) should be in the plans. It might even make more sense to get a new short block that already has a forged bottom end.
LS7 already comes w/forged crank, titanium rods and cast pistons are there for lightness @ 7100 RPM's from the factory.
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