best air filter?
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If car has a funk and its the cabin filter you are going after, really need to back you up from the start.
Step one is to get under the car, and make sure that the HVAC drain box drain line is not clogged, and the box is spending it time with standing water.
Tube end 27,
Next, take a look at your yearly humidity for your area, and if you find that it over 45% for the year, need to turn on the after blow feature in the BCM. What this does, is about 20 mins after you turn the car off, allows all the ice on the HVAV coils to de-ice, and the HVAC fan comes on for a few mins, to draw air through the coils to dry them off so mold does not grow on the coils.
Note, check with guys in your area to see who has a Tech II clone to turn on after blow if you need this on. If dealer breaks out a tech II, they want a flat rate of $150 to use the tool in the first place.
Next with the motor running, HVAC fan on high, and all the windows/hatch open, we are going to pull the old cabin filter leave the cover off, and spray an entire can of lysol scented through the opening in a few mins to kill any mold that has grown on the coil, and inside the air box as well.
Pick your flavor,
As for replacement filter, tend to go with the charcoal ones, but make sure you understand the air flow through the system, so you get the filter flow arrows in the correct direction (flow is upwards).
________________________________________ ____________________________
As for air filters, tend to go with the wix gold units (Napa gold is a wix gold as well), since the are white'ish, and you can see from a distance if the filter is dirty and needs to be replaced. With the blue and black filters, hard to see if they are dirty or not isntead.
As for air filter that you need to clean and oil, not a fan since they do not start to filter best until they do get a bit dirty, and if you over oil one, the oil ends up in the MAF that will need to be pulled and cleaned of the oil as well.
Note, get in a standard practive of cleaning the MAF with spray maf cleaner every time you change the air filter, dry or oil types. Hence PCV does send vapors down the intake that over time, it can foul the maf sensor as well.
On the older type maf, is the wires on the back of the U strips that you want to spray clean from a distance so you don't break the wires, and allow to air dry,
While on the later maf sensor, just want to spray flood the sensor through it air flow ports, and allow to air dry isntead.
As for oil change, make sure you know if the motor is a wet sump or dry sump, since they are different on how you drain the oils and where/how, the amounts of oil you are putting back in the car. The quick way to tell, if find the dipstick.
If the dip stick and filler cap in on a oil tank in the back passenger side of the car, dry sump motor that has two drain plugs on the sump pan, must put in about 8 quarts into the tank directly (never into the valve cover cap under the rail covers), run the motor, then go back and finish putting the motor oil in to bring the lever up to full.
If the dip stick is by the oil fill cap on the passenger side of the motor head, wet sump motor, and single drain on the sump pan, will put the oil into the valve cover for most of the oil, do a engine start then shut down, the check the dip stick to bring the level up to full.
As for the oil filters, three chooses in OEM. On that is mostly plastic internals, one that is all steel internals, and one that it body is for higher pressure (LS9 and dry sump motors), with all steel internals as well.
Step one is to get under the car, and make sure that the HVAC drain box drain line is not clogged, and the box is spending it time with standing water.
Tube end 27,
Next, take a look at your yearly humidity for your area, and if you find that it over 45% for the year, need to turn on the after blow feature in the BCM. What this does, is about 20 mins after you turn the car off, allows all the ice on the HVAV coils to de-ice, and the HVAC fan comes on for a few mins, to draw air through the coils to dry them off so mold does not grow on the coils.
Note, check with guys in your area to see who has a Tech II clone to turn on after blow if you need this on. If dealer breaks out a tech II, they want a flat rate of $150 to use the tool in the first place.
Next with the motor running, HVAC fan on high, and all the windows/hatch open, we are going to pull the old cabin filter leave the cover off, and spray an entire can of lysol scented through the opening in a few mins to kill any mold that has grown on the coil, and inside the air box as well.
Pick your flavor,
As for replacement filter, tend to go with the charcoal ones, but make sure you understand the air flow through the system, so you get the filter flow arrows in the correct direction (flow is upwards).
________________________________________ ____________________________
As for air filters, tend to go with the wix gold units (Napa gold is a wix gold as well), since the are white'ish, and you can see from a distance if the filter is dirty and needs to be replaced. With the blue and black filters, hard to see if they are dirty or not isntead.
As for air filter that you need to clean and oil, not a fan since they do not start to filter best until they do get a bit dirty, and if you over oil one, the oil ends up in the MAF that will need to be pulled and cleaned of the oil as well.
Note, get in a standard practive of cleaning the MAF with spray maf cleaner every time you change the air filter, dry or oil types. Hence PCV does send vapors down the intake that over time, it can foul the maf sensor as well.
On the older type maf, is the wires on the back of the U strips that you want to spray clean from a distance so you don't break the wires, and allow to air dry,
While on the later maf sensor, just want to spray flood the sensor through it air flow ports, and allow to air dry isntead.
As for oil change, make sure you know if the motor is a wet sump or dry sump, since they are different on how you drain the oils and where/how, the amounts of oil you are putting back in the car. The quick way to tell, if find the dipstick.
If the dip stick and filler cap in on a oil tank in the back passenger side of the car, dry sump motor that has two drain plugs on the sump pan, must put in about 8 quarts into the tank directly (never into the valve cover cap under the rail covers), run the motor, then go back and finish putting the motor oil in to bring the lever up to full.
If the dip stick is by the oil fill cap on the passenger side of the motor head, wet sump motor, and single drain on the sump pan, will put the oil into the valve cover for most of the oil, do a engine start then shut down, the check the dip stick to bring the level up to full.
As for the oil filters, three chooses in OEM. On that is mostly plastic internals, one that is all steel internals, and one that it body is for higher pressure (LS9 and dry sump motors), with all steel internals as well.
Last edited by Dano523; Apr 3, 2022 at 08:14 PM.
