I have a 2006 that wont start sometimes. Turns over fine replaced relay for fuel and started right away then after a week still started fine drove great next day wont start turns over fine but seems like no fuel. played with relays again then started. drove all day starting 5or 6 times with no issues. Planning trip to NCM soon but worried that it might not start when there. can anyone help me resolve the issue. Thanks

 

Can you put a manual fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail to see if it is building pressure during the crank but no start?

 

Didn't I read that the engine won't crank without fuel pressure...??? Check for spark when it cranks.

 

How old is your battery ? That could be the culprit.

 

I agree, battery would be first check. Also test the starter.

Next check would be fuel pressure, and spark check.

 

The problem is intermittent. cranks over fine I hit the fuel pump relay and car started up. Replaced fuel pump relay, then after a week did it again tapped fuel pump relay and car started. Has anyone taken fuse box under hood apart to search for moisture or bad contact?

 

Have you sprayed any anti-corrosion fluid into those contacts, from the top with the relay removed?

If that doesn't work, you may have to disassemble the fuse panel and see if there is a loose connection underneath; haven't done a corvette but I have done my Camaro donor quite a few times. Be sure to disconnect the battery first.

Nick

 

Pull the upper fuse box off, and take a look at the lower pin clip on lower box to see if it heat bent open.


To remove the upper fuse box, disconnect the battery positive cable, disconnect the positive cable from the engine fuse box terminal, spin the 4 silver center 8mm bolt until they spin freely, then on the sides, pop open the U plastic tabs to clean the nubs, and the upper fuse box will pull straight up and off.

If the lower block fuel pump pin is heat distorted, then you can get into it with a sewing needle to bend its tab back out so it does make correct contact to the upper block spade connector.



If that is the problem alone, then correct, and before you go to reinstall the upper fuse block back down, use some dielectric grease on the connectors. It not only helps to keep corrosion at bay, but works like a thermal paste to help absorb/transfer the heat too.


If that is not the problem (or only half the problem), then its the upper fuse box U clip for the relay spade that is either corroded or burn isntead.


To get the upper fuse box apart, you want to remove bottom side lips of the grommet, so when you go to put it back together, the bolts will still have the upper ledges to hold it back together tightly against the lower blocks.



Note here, before you pull the upper fuse box apart, take a photo of all the fuse, and the direction of the relays and the diodes, so you know which way to put them back in.

Once you are to the center board with wire traces, start with some electrical contact cleaner for all, clean up the needed U pins and use a set of needle nose pliers to bend them back the ones that have been spread too far apart, double check that the wires for the side tabs on the U prongs are seated correctly in place (not corroded/burnt there as well) and use either dielectric grease or silicone spray to protect from corrosion as well.


As for short of problem at the fuse blocks, then could be that the fuel pump is going south (or the connector back there) instead. On the pumps in each tank, drivers side is the one that is a mechanical pump, while the one in the passenger side is a venture pump, driving by the pressure of the one in the drivers tank.



Lastly, if you have a Boost a pump in play, make sure that someone did not wire it through the GM fuse block wiring to the tank. The BAP sends more amperage to the pump that the factory wiring can handle, and it will burn up the wires in the factory harness. So the way it should be wired, is you can use the OEM relay wiring to drive it relay to turn the unit off and on, but its main powering wiring should be to the engine fuse block terminal, and its output wires of thicker gauge, should be all the way back to the connector at the fuel pump directly.

 

Intermittent problems are the tough and unpredictable, I would not take that car on a trip, but if u have good towing insurance go for it. JMO dont yell at me.

 

I'm driving to Carlisle PA in August then to Corvette museum in Kentucky from Massachusetts approx. 2500 mile trip

 

Dano523 gave great advice......... I would use it.