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Looking to just delete the PS pump & just loop the rack lines. Any of you guys had success with this? I run front runners exclusively & I’m removing excess weight & unnecessary clutter from the engine bay. I haven’t been able to locate an accessory bracket or a replacement idler pulley for the Vette, & after looking at it closely, I may not require it. TIA.
I would recommend switching to a manual rack... a power rack will be a bear to drive without the pump even with a skinny. TRZ Motorsports makes a nice manual replacement that has better ratios to make it more manageable.
I’ve been eyeing that set-up for years, but it’s pricy & you have to change everything in the front end. I’ve talked to those guys & several folks that have/had that deal, & it supposedly has no business on anything resembling a street car. It’s not the rack of course that’s the issue, it’s the k-member required to run it. We modded & drove an F-body car with a looped rack back in the day, & it wasn’t terrible. I was just testing the waters to see if anyone had any experience with it on a C6. Appreciate it.
I would recommend switching to a manual rack... a power rack will be a bear to drive without the pump even with a skinny. TRZ Motorsports makes a nice manual replacement that has better ratios to make it more manageable.
Not a bear at all, mines been deleted for years and its perfectly fine both with 275 wide R888's and skinnies. The TRZ rack only works with their subframe kit.
Originally Posted by Undecided07
I’ve been eyeing that set-up for years, but it’s pricy & you have to change everything in the front end. I’ve talked to those guys & several folks that have/had that deal, & it supposedly has no business on anything resembling a street car. It’s not the rack of course that’s the issue, it’s the k-member required to run it. We modded & drove an F-body car with a looped rack back in the day, & it wasn’t terrible. I was just testing the waters to see if anyone had any experience with it on a C6. Appreciate it.
When I deleted mine I drained as much of the fluid out as I could and looped the lines with Russell metric power steering to 6AN adapters. Looks nice and works perfect!
That was my plan as well, to turn lock to lock to allow majority of the fluid to push out while leaving enough to lubricate the rack. Did you have to add an idler pulley or any kind of bracket for belt routing or just run a shorter belt.
I’m in the process of removing the EBCM distribution block & factory hard lines using the Finishing Lines kit, so wanted to continue cleaning up the engine bay since adding the D1X. TIA.
That was my plan as well, to turn lock to lock to allow majority of the fluid to push out while leaving enough to lubricate the rack. Did you have to add an idler pulley or any kind of bracket for belt routing or just run a shorter belt.
I’m in the process of removing the EBCM distribution block & factory hard lines using the Finishing Lines kit, so wanted to continue cleaning up the engine bay since adding the D1X. TIA.
I did not add an idler, just a short belt. I deleted the EBCM as well, just needed to loop the 4 canbus wires to keep the computer happy. Then I took it further with the TRZ master cylinder adapter plate to delete the brake booster.
Man that’s great news. I’ve been looking for a solution for this since I put the blower on the car. Looking at the belt routing it appeared completely doable to me. It’s not a long run, I was worried it might start throwing the belt if the tensioner wasn’t enough. Appreciate it.
I’m planning to jumper the EBCM plug instead of splicing the harness just because it looks cleaner & reversible. I wish I would thought about deleting the booster while I was at it. The booster takes up a ton of real estate on the driver side. Getting rid of the PS pump assembly, EBCM, & the booster I bet you’ve got some space to work with now. Send some pics of your set-up if you don’t mind. TIA.
Man that’s great news. I’ve been looking for a solution for this since I put the blower on the car. Looking at the belt routing it appeared completely doable to me. It’s not a long run, I was worried it might start throwing the belt if the tensioner wasn’t enough. Appreciate it.
I’m planning to jumper the EBCM plug instead of splicing the harness just because it looks cleaner & reversible. I wish I would thought about deleting the booster while I was at it. The booster takes up a ton of real estate on the driver side. Getting rid of the PS pump assembly, EBCM, & the booster I bet you’ve got some space to work with now. Send some pics of your set-up if you don’t mind. TIA.
That makes sense if you are ever planning to go back. I ran the alt in stock location for a long while with the ICT bracket, then I moved it down to about where the AC compressor was when I did my motor plate. I wanted to make space for up and forward headers for my turbo setup. I should take more pics, this is old as I have since deleted all the OEM brake lines and converted them to 3AN, deleted the hood latches, trimmed back the cowl, etc. but yes I have lots of room for activities!
You’re definitely further along than I am for sure. That looks like a lot of car you got going there. Seems like I’ve seen this pic before while picking through the forum. Did you convert to a live axle set-up as well?
I was planning on just removing the PS pump/lines & run the factory alternator/PS bracket. Is the ICT breaker required to delete the PS pump? The reason I ask is, I couldn’t find a bracket in their catalog that worked. I called & spoke with those guys as well, & they didn’t seem to think any of their stuff was applicable. They have a trk bracket that deletes the PS but places the alternator waay high & even then requires another bracket to fit the corvette alternator that pushes it up even higher.
You’re definitely further along than I am for sure. That looks like a lot of car you got going there. Seems like I’ve seen this pic before while picking through the forum. Did you convert to a live axle set-up as well?
I was planning on just removing the PS pump/lines & run the factory alternator/PS bracket. Is the ICT breaker required to delete the PS pump? The reason I ask is, I couldn’t find a bracket in their catalog that worked. I called & spoke with those guys as well, & they didn’t seem to think any of their stuff was applicable. They have a trk bracket that deletes the PS but places the alternator waay high & even then requires another bracket to fit the corvette alternator that pushes it up even higher.
I did get bored during covid and set out to fix my constant issue with IRS parts failing, the 9" has been flawless so far.
You can certainly do that, I did for awhile but the bulky stock bracket annoyed me so I set out to delete it. I found the ICT bracket and used the adapter you mention for the stock alternator, wasn't ideal as the adapter had just enough flex to give me belt issues at high RPM. So I went to the local parts store and traded mine as a core for a truck alternator that fit in perfectly in the bracket without the adapter which solved the belt issues. I had some issues with engine mounts so that spurred the motor plate setup and moving the alternator again, that same truck alternator is the one in the pic above, its been working better than my OEM vette one ever did.
I thought that was the car once I saw the pic yesterday. It’s not everyday you see/hear about a C6 with a live axle conversion. Lol. I remember seeing some pics of the finished product, & you completely nailed the stance. That kind of fab work is way beyond my abilities, I’m definitely envious. Are you running an auto or manual trans, I don’t recall?
Appreciate all the info on the PS delete. I’m planning to start removing all of that crap while I’m working on the brake line kit. Those two things being gone is really going to clean up that driver’s side frame rail.
I’ve raced with a failed PS system and the loading is very high. You would want to strengthen the steering shaft if you intend to do this long term
It’s more of a straight line car at this point, & not a lot of street miles anymore. It gets an occasional cruise down the road & then trailer to track duty. I’ll definitely keep an eye on it though, thanks for the tip.
I’ve raced with a failed PS system and the loading is very high. You would want to strengthen the steering shaft if you intend to do this long term
Funny, I went to a lightweight steering shaft. Pushing fluid through a failed PS system takes more effort than turning a drained system. I assume you had stickier and wider front tires than we generally run as well.
Originally Posted by Undecided07
It’s more of a straight line car at this point, & not a lot of street miles anymore. It gets an occasional cruise down the road & then trailer to track duty. I’ll definitely keep an eye on it though, thanks for the tip.
I was mildly concerned so I tested the leftover material from my lightweight steering shaft on my 20 ton press. It took an incredible amount of force to damage it, no where near what I could leverage from the drivers seat. I used the TRZ tubular steering kit and adapted it to the stock rack.
Funny, I went to a lightweight steering shaft. Pushing fluid through a failed PS system takes more effort than turning a drained system. I assume you had stickier and wider front tires than we generally run as well.
I was mildly concerned so I tested the leftover material from my lightweight steering shaft on my 20 ton press. It took an incredible amount of force to damage it, no where near what I could leverage from the drivers seat. I used the TRZ tubular steering kit and adapted it to the stock rack.
Glad I’m not the only one in the R&D Dept on some of this stuff. Lol. I’ve been racing/wrenching on cars since I could drive, & we’ve definitely been guilty of ill-advised, sketchy mods more than a few times. I’ve learned a lot since then, older, wiser kind of deal I guess. Appreciate it guys.
Good info on here, thanks for posting. I had a previous car (not a vette) converted to manual and enjoyed it. IIRC it was a factory PS rack, completely drained & plugged. Effort was a bit high at low speeds of course, but not bad when moving.
I recommend putting a breather in the loop, it helps lessen the effort needed to turn. I just left mine open this time around. If it fails, I'll get another one. I don't drive the car that much.
I recommend putting a breather in the loop, it helps lessen the effort needed to turn. I just left mine open this time around. If it fails, I'll get another one. I don't drive the car that much.
I might try that as well if the loop configuration creates too much effort. I did the loop method on a F-body car years ago, & it wasn’t bad from what I remember. If converting to a manual rack wasn’t such an expensive option, I go that route right off the hit.
I recommend putting a breather in the loop, it helps lessen the effort needed to turn. I just left mine open this time around. If it fails, I'll get another one. I don't drive the car that much.
where would you put the breather in at? and wouldnt any fluid left in there ooze out of the breather?