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Narrow LSA's and a lot of advance close the intake valve sooner to compensate for lower dynamic compression to boost Tq. Big exhaust duration extends power higher in RPM in exchange for worse low end Tq. You lose about 100rpm of top end power for each degree tighter on the LSA. You don't need big exhaust duration if the cam wasn't using a tight LSA and so much advance.
Why wouldn't you just run more compression (more power everywhere) and reduce the overlap with a wider LSA? I tried a 230/242 along with the 230/234 and the difference was 3hp. Both pulled to 7K. The intake manifold on both the LS2 and LS3 force the peak around 6300-6400 rpm due to runner length. Cams that dyno great on peak HP are the ones that have a power peak that coincides with the intake manifold's peak.
The reason GM used big splits was not because the heads need it but rather the small intake duration falls on its face at 5900rpm and they used the added exhaust duration to extend the power band higher. Once you get around 230 intake duration, a single pattern cam like Pat G used on his G8 pulls to red line. PAtG's cam then was a 231/231 .617"/.617" 114 LSA +2.
Last edited by SpinMonster; Aug 23, 2022 at 12:38 AM.
......I was looking for some stealth and this sounds like it will be perfect for what I wanted. Don’t want chop. Want a stock like idle.......
Originally Posted by Petera90
it’s gonna chop hard with 8.5 degrees of overlap. It’s also gonna have driveability issues imho if you don’t have a good tuner. I wouldn’t get caught up in sound or stages. You can make a stock cam chop like a stage 3 cam.
I currently have the BTR-Stage-3 LS3 cam in my Impala. Not that hard to tune.....with more overlap (10.5* overlap, IIRC).
Generally speaking, any cam in a LS3 with 11* overlap or less will still make for a decent daily driver; but at 8.5* overlap, this cam will still have a noticeable chop!
Not saying any amount of overlap can't be tolerated. I've seen guys say that 14 degrees of overlap is a baby cam. I had one in an LS3 with 9 degrees and absolutely hated it. I hate to see any of my Corvette brothers struggle with a nasty/ill behaving setup. It's just not necessary.
The small intake duration cams with a bunch of advance that create really high DCR's will have more issues than their amount of overlap would indicate. Just know what you're getting into.
If you're depending on a guy's rec that has had all of "one" cam to steer you in the right direction, good luck. Also, if you 100% believe everything a cam seller tells you, also good luck.
Not saying any amount of overlap can't be tolerated. I've seen guys say that 14 degrees of overlap is a baby cam. I had one in an LS3 with 9 degrees and absolutely hated it. I hate to see any of my Corvette brothers struggle with a nasty/ill behaving setup. It's just not necessary.
The small intake duration cams with a bunch of advance that create really high DCR's will have more issues than their amount of overlap would indicate. Just know what you're getting into.
If you're depending on a guy's rec that has had all of "one" cam to steer you in the right direction, good luck. Also, if you 100% believe everything a cam seller tells you, also good luck.
I never understood why many think a cam has to be 'spec'd' for mods such as headers or intake manifold. I have used the exact same cam with so many varied mods and they all pretty much make the same power. In short, when tuners have their stage cams why don't they just post a chassis dyno for each of the results they get so guys can see what to expect? I think the laugh would be that the biggest and nastiest stage 13 cam still makes within 5hp of the average stage one low overlap cam. 5hp in exchange for driving an electric bull........
I saw a guy post a result for ported stock LS3 heads with a 13 degree overlap big cam and made 493rwhp. I see cam only results getting that with 4 degrees overlap. In short, don't try to reinvent the wheel and just go with a proven cam that you can find many factual dyno results for. These results should be posted by the end user and not hand picked to sell a cam.
Example (and I'm not selling anything):
LS3 with stock heads 230/234 4 degrees overlap posted by a forum member that I didn't install or tune:
If a cam vendor says that a cam makes more power, compare the dyno results not just at peak, but at all rpm's.
Now if you do bump compression and use Trick Flow 235's you have 520rwhp 470rwtq with the same cam.
Last edited by SpinMonster; Aug 24, 2022 at 02:21 PM.
I will be talking to Brian tomorrow.I can ask if he has any dyno graphs of the new version if you would like.Talked to him about the revised cam today but I just saw your post.
I figured Spin was wanting a chassis dyno,not the engine dynos on his website.I talked to a couple of guys that were using it and they seemed happy with it.I have the older version and was curious how the curves looked on the V2.
I figured Spin was wanting a chassis dyno,not the engine dynos on his website.I talked to a couple of guys that were using it and they seemed happy with it.I have the older version and was curious how the curves looked on the V2.
Yes, I'd like to see what it makes on a chassis dyno.
Spin has been doing this a while and has tested a lot of stuff. Cylinder head, intake manifold and cubic inches can also make things different. A 6.2 liter is going to response differently to cam than a 7.5 liter one (you need about 10 degrees more for similar power ban). I would also agree on these cars the intake manifold especially stock has its rpm limitations no matter what your cam is. So you can have a 220 duration intake and a 250 duration intake cam and the peak power ban may only be a few hundred more because the OEM intake manifold is the limit. However, the rpm needed to get to say 450 rw tq goes from 3,000 rpm to 4,500 rpm resulting in a soggy bottom end with little top end to gain. I run a 246/258 on a 114 (23 degrees of overlap) 650 lift in a 454 with Brodix BR7 heads 12 to 1 compression and a ported MSD it peaks at 6,500 and I could probably take 5-8 degrees out and not notice anything but better street manners. The different duration in the BTR cam in the same family (ie Stage 2) of a few degrees here and there are probably not drastically noticeable but are more of a refinement from earlier versions. PS - a heavy flywheel (for stop and go traffic / idle) and gears can help when you get into larger cams.
Just got mine back to from the shop. Ended up going with the STG 1 V2 on suggestion from BTR rep and tuner. According to BTR it makes more power than the old btr2 and within 5 of the BTR 3. I have an A6 and a single disc converter, so it couldn’t be locked during the dyno tune ( and on a stingy dyno too). Made 455@6500 HP, torque was 445@5200 but torque curve was a table top from 3500 to 6500. I’m using a Yank ss3600 converter.
Drove home 3 1/2 hours trouble free, still getting 30mpg on freeway. Other mods were SE headers and catless mid, npp axle back, rod mod intake mod. VERY happy with how it runs. I can nail it at 30 in second and get sideways. Have no doubt that it will get into the 10’s. For a cam with only 217@.050 intake duration (23x @.050 exhaust) it has a little chop. Won’t let me upload startup video, it’s a little too big.
Just got mine back to from the shop. Ended up going with the STG 1 V2 on suggestion from BTR rep and tuner. According to BTR it makes more power than the old btr2 and within 5 of the BTR 3. I have an A6 and a single disc converter, so it couldn’t be locked during the dyno tune ( and on a stingy dyno too). Made 455@6500 HP, torque was 445@5200 but torque curve was a table top from 3500 to 6500. I’m using a Yank ss3600 converter.
Drove home 3 1/2 hours trouble free, still getting 30mpg on freeway. Other mods were SE headers and catless mid, npp axle back, rod mod intake mod. VERY happy with how it runs. I can nail it at 30 in second and get sideways. Have no doubt that it will get into the 10’s. For a cam with only 217@.050 intake duration (23x @.050 exhaust) it has a little chop. Won’t let me upload startup video, it’s a little too big.
good to hear I’m glad you are happy with it. Mine is in the shop right now getting the stage 2 V1…The V2 has been shown to make significantly more power than the V1 however it hasn’t been out very long and the V1 is definitely a proven cam. Lots of people run it and are very happy with it so I don’t really regret my decision.
My original plan was the original stage 2 but between waiting on my appt (3 1/2 months, busy shop) and getting it there, the new versions came out. This one sounds rowdier than the 224r cam I had in my ls1 z28. Must be the big exhaust duration.
My original plan was the original stage 2 but between waiting on my appt (3 1/2 months, busy shop) and getting it there, the new versions came out. This one sounds rowdier than the 224r cam I had in my ls1 z28. Must be the big exhaust duration.
I understand the need for trade secrets but if a cam is an outdated design and no longer sold or if the results are not what was expected, meaning it's a failure, what's the point of secrecy with the specs? Wouldn't it help the end user to not do something with design in order to save people money and heartache? I've always felt that by sharing specs and collaborating, we would have head/cam packages at 535rwhp on a 6.2L
Last edited by SpinMonster; Oct 20, 2022 at 04:32 PM.
So he’s saying he has tuned cars with the new V2 stage 2 and the old one makes mpre power and torque overall? Interesting….
Yes overall the old version is better he said. The old stage 2 is also his favorite off the shelf cam for the LS3. I don’t get the secret specs now from BTR. It’s not like all of sudden these new cams are gonna make 50whp more vs the old ones. They even stated on insta all tests with their new cams are done with e85. I like BTR I have their stage 2 N/A cam and it drives great for a cammed car. But, their hype for their new cams is kinda lame especially when you call them and they tell you the overlap of the new cam and it doesn’t line up with the specs.