Build Advice Needed - 07 LS2 Build
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Build Advice Needed - 07 LS2 Build
looking for any advice and recommendations from members who have experience with higher level power numbers. im planning to go boost and trying to find out what other areas and parts of the car need addressed to handle the increased power levels.
tomorrow the car goes in to get a stage 5 RPM built trans and Monster LT1-S Clutch with lightweight flywheel, speed bleeder, new gm slave cylinder, and release bearing support.
car is an 07 base c6 with 90k on the clock
i want to take the car to the drag strip at least 5-10x a year and I want to try and get at least 5 track days in a year at the local HPDE events. I do daily drive the car as I love driving it.
other than the trans and clutch is there any other areas i need to address or service to handle the increased power levels that the A&A kit will give it? rear end, any supports, any maintenance items etc..
Goal is to stay around the 550WHP level.
Build so far:
tomorrow the car goes in to get a stage 5 RPM built trans and Monster LT1-S Clutch with lightweight flywheel, speed bleeder, new gm slave cylinder, and release bearing support.
car is an 07 base c6 with 90k on the clock
i want to take the car to the drag strip at least 5-10x a year and I want to try and get at least 5 track days in a year at the local HPDE events. I do daily drive the car as I love driving it.
other than the trans and clutch is there any other areas i need to address or service to handle the increased power levels that the A&A kit will give it? rear end, any supports, any maintenance items etc..
Goal is to stay around the 550WHP level.
Build so far:
- SLP CAI
- long tubes
- catless X
- full corsa extreme cat back
- MGW Short Throw
- Brake upgrade - (just pads, ebay rotors and thats it)
- z51 sways
- 368 HP
- 368 TQ
- 398 HP
- 401 TQ
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,999
Likes: 1,685
From: Southeast TX
To get 550 wheel, you'll need a blower. Can be done without a blower, but it won't be street friendly....at all. Probably take high static compression ratio as well as a nasty max effort cam, max effort heads, high dollar intake manifold, and maybe a bigger throttle body. You'll need tranny/diff coolers as well as upgraded engine cooling, both radiator and engine oil cooler. I wouldn't hazard to guess how much abuse a 90K mile short block would take before spitting parts all over the track.
You'd probably be better off in the long run to sell your Vette and buy a Z06. All the coolers are in place and 550 at the wheels can be done with a mild cam and bolt ons. Have the cylinder heads gone through (if they haven't already) when you upgrade the cam.
You'd probably be better off in the long run to sell your Vette and buy a Z06. All the coolers are in place and 550 at the wheels can be done with a mild cam and bolt ons. Have the cylinder heads gone through (if they haven't already) when you upgrade the cam.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 145
Likes: 87
Sounds Very ZR-1 once out of the shop.
The C6 is a strong car in any format so you can look to the Z06 appointments for clues.
Trans and Clutch was the right move.
Seems you already know what your doing.
Half Shafts and U Joints are going to need to be inspected. They are the weakest links.
Z cars all have Oil, PS, &Trans Coolers, so keep that in mind.
Your Trans & Hi Po Clutch will dissipate heat nicely though.
Your high LS2 compression might run hot with the boost so 160 Thermostat.
I'd do a 4 Corner Steam Kit to keep cylinder temps balanced.
Your Fuel Injectors are going to need to be uprgaded.( think E85 while your at it)
Fuel pump lays down over 450 HP so I would add a supplimental fuel pump.
Boost A Pump makes a piggy back unit that only turns on when needed .
The LS2 can take the power, your benefit here is LOW RPM. . .
As opposed to all the NA guys who need to see 7K ;-) (Hello LS-7)
Of course you will get a tune, but give yourself and the ECU about 200 miles before track time.
Do the usual Radiator flush or even recondition if you can, even upgrade, not too expensive.
You can use all the GM Z car cooling parts with benefit of stock locations. (IF, things get hot)
Simple list right ? The other cues were for handling and light weight. You can always bolt on bigger brakes, coil overs and call it a day down the road. The Coil overs are nice because you can dial in your settings for BOTH the Road Coarse AND the Drag Strip. I do this and also drop the sway bars and DOT tires for DRS anyway.
Sounds like a smart move to me so far my friend the flip side of the coin is turbo and in both cases, BOOST solves many things and what your asking is not alot. The stock LS2 when its tuned to keep the ECU from retarding timing and, the 1/4 shift, speed limitations, rev limitations also flails around on the MAP pressures collectively throwing about 50HP out the window. So keep the boost low when you start out and try not to SHOCK the rear end and the LS2 bottom end too much until things get settled, the last thing you want to do is Lean out the motor too hard or twisting half shafts. Plenty of power to not go nuts on a 60ft number.
A well maintained LS2 with 90K is essentially broken in because its not making power over 6k, where as the LS-7, a Finely Tuned Race Car is sensitive. The Corvette Engineers will tell you that the Heads don't have a valve problem, its the changes that are made without knowing the consequences or tuning properly that drop valves and spread rumors.
The smart guys are building the car from the gearing and application first, not from just a my dyno number is bigger than yours.
The Cadillac CTV also has the LT-4 engine your essentially going to have and that cars world record is high 9's with an underdrive boost pulley for around 12 lbs of boost. You will see the numbers you want at around 6 lbs, so go easy at first, and learn how to drive this beautiful car slowly and work up with small victories
The interesting part is if you ever hurt the motor or decide to rebuild it, you can install a stroker rotating assembly kit and then you double your HP. Look forward to hearing about the results when you get the car out of the shop !.
The C6 is a strong car in any format so you can look to the Z06 appointments for clues.
Trans and Clutch was the right move.
Seems you already know what your doing.
Half Shafts and U Joints are going to need to be inspected. They are the weakest links.
Z cars all have Oil, PS, &Trans Coolers, so keep that in mind.
Your Trans & Hi Po Clutch will dissipate heat nicely though.
Your high LS2 compression might run hot with the boost so 160 Thermostat.
I'd do a 4 Corner Steam Kit to keep cylinder temps balanced.
Your Fuel Injectors are going to need to be uprgaded.( think E85 while your at it)
Fuel pump lays down over 450 HP so I would add a supplimental fuel pump.
Boost A Pump makes a piggy back unit that only turns on when needed .
The LS2 can take the power, your benefit here is LOW RPM. . .
As opposed to all the NA guys who need to see 7K ;-) (Hello LS-7)
Of course you will get a tune, but give yourself and the ECU about 200 miles before track time.
Do the usual Radiator flush or even recondition if you can, even upgrade, not too expensive.
You can use all the GM Z car cooling parts with benefit of stock locations. (IF, things get hot)
Simple list right ? The other cues were for handling and light weight. You can always bolt on bigger brakes, coil overs and call it a day down the road. The Coil overs are nice because you can dial in your settings for BOTH the Road Coarse AND the Drag Strip. I do this and also drop the sway bars and DOT tires for DRS anyway.
Sounds like a smart move to me so far my friend the flip side of the coin is turbo and in both cases, BOOST solves many things and what your asking is not alot. The stock LS2 when its tuned to keep the ECU from retarding timing and, the 1/4 shift, speed limitations, rev limitations also flails around on the MAP pressures collectively throwing about 50HP out the window. So keep the boost low when you start out and try not to SHOCK the rear end and the LS2 bottom end too much until things get settled, the last thing you want to do is Lean out the motor too hard or twisting half shafts. Plenty of power to not go nuts on a 60ft number.
A well maintained LS2 with 90K is essentially broken in because its not making power over 6k, where as the LS-7, a Finely Tuned Race Car is sensitive. The Corvette Engineers will tell you that the Heads don't have a valve problem, its the changes that are made without knowing the consequences or tuning properly that drop valves and spread rumors.
The smart guys are building the car from the gearing and application first, not from just a my dyno number is bigger than yours.
The Cadillac CTV also has the LT-4 engine your essentially going to have and that cars world record is high 9's with an underdrive boost pulley for around 12 lbs of boost. You will see the numbers you want at around 6 lbs, so go easy at first, and learn how to drive this beautiful car slowly and work up with small victories
The interesting part is if you ever hurt the motor or decide to rebuild it, you can install a stroker rotating assembly kit and then you double your HP. Look forward to hearing about the results when you get the car out of the shop !.
