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2013 C6 Grand Sport Engine Options

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Old Oct 19, 2022 | 11:00 AM
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Default 2013 C6 Grand Sport Engine Options

Hello all,
I am new to the Corvette world and I just picked up a 2013 Grand Sport without a motor. I understand the original setup was with a 6.2L LS3. It also has a dry sump oil pump system. The car was updated to a 7.0L LS7, but the guy sold the motor to someone else and I got the rest. I have been researching everything I can about the car and the engine options. This is my first Corvette. I have always been a Mustang guy, but thought this would be a fun project. So I am hoping to get some answers to some questions I cannot find answers to.

1. I have a chance to pick up an LT1 from a 2017 Camero. The guy has the full wiring harness with ECU. Would this be an option for my C6? I cannot seem to find where anyone has done this motor swap yet. What would it take to convert this over? Will the LT1 harness plug into the car properly? I have the 6 speed manual in my GS. Will the LT1 bolt up to it ok? Also, I assume I would need to get new headers as they probably are not the same as the LS3. Will my dry sump fit the LT1?

2. The other option is to go with a L92 or L94. As I understand it, one of the best mods for the LS3 is a heads/cam upgrade. So I figure I can get an L92 or L94 for a cheaper price and upgrade the heads, cam and intake.

3. Or should I just find a good LS3 and go straight stock for now.

4. For both #2 and #3 above, I will also probably update the rotating assembly since I have it out of the car (seems like the best time to do it). I have seen a stroker kit for the LS3 that will take it to I believe a 429. Has anyone done this mod? How well do they work?

I know with all of the options I will need a tune. I will tune it myself. I have an HP tuners and have tuned my 2009 CTS-V and all of my Mustangs in the past. So tuning will not be an issue.

Please let me your thoughts. I am excited to get this back on the road and have a lot of questions.
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Old Oct 19, 2022 | 11:08 AM
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If that were mine, I'd probably just put an LS3 back in it and then bolt on a supercharger. The dry sump LS3s were hand-built just like the LS7 and are pretty reliable from what I've seen. My 2008 Z06 with the LS7 was a nightmare because it kept breaking down and was in the shop six months out of the year either for repairs or upgrades. When I had my 2010 ZR1, I loved the simplicity of it in that is drove like it was 100% stock yet had minor bolt-ons to get it to 683rwhp on E85. It was then where I became a fan of forced induction. So now that I have my LS3 Grand Sport, when I get the itch to add more power, it will be forced induction so I can maintain the stock drivability.

Best of luck with whatever you decide. And welcome to the Corvette world.

EDIT: Side note, the LT1s have cylinder deactivation technology if I recall correctly. I believe it can be disabled, but I would be leery trying to get it to interface with the C6. Experienced tuners will need to chime in on that, though.
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Old Oct 19, 2022 | 01:03 PM
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Retrofitting the LT1 in the C6 would be a chore. Im not saying it couldn't be done, with enough money and time anythings possible but you have to take into account you'll need to basically design a fuel system from scratch to work with the high vol fuel pump and direct injection, or somehow find a way to get rid of it and block of the D.I. injectors and go to a port injection setup. If you decided to keep the DI the next hurdle would be getting the LT1 ECU to communicate with the C6 BCM (if thats even possible). Thats just what i can think of off the top of my head. Your Dry sump def wont fit the LT1. Headers would also be a custom made deal as the LT motors have different style exhaust ports and placement. Overall I'd say no matter how you look at this route its far more trouble than its worth.

I'd say your best option is find a good LS3 or as you stated an L92-L94. Any LS variant really. Not sure where your budget is but I think this is going to be way more budget friendly and less headache. If you plan to do a stroker kit maybe just look into buying a longblock from one of the reputable builders. In the long run it might be cheaper than paying a machine shop to start from scratch. Theres a ton of good options out there between Thompson, Texas Speed, and plenty of others. Should be a fun project but I would air on the side of keep it simple and use known/proven combinations. Either way best of luck and welcome to the family! I too dabble in the Mustang world, currently considering a new Mach 1 next year.
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Old Oct 19, 2022 | 01:04 PM
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Better question at this point is what are your plans for the car? DD, track, DD with mods that is street tolerable. Start there then you can decided what exactly you want to do with it. Much like the Mustang world, the sky is the limit depending on time and more importantly, how much you are willing\able to spend. LS3 is a great motor and can suit most peoples needs.
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Old Oct 19, 2022 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by StayinStock
Retrofitting the LT1 in the C6 would be a chore. Im not saying it couldn't be done, with enough money and time anythings possible but you have to take into account you'll need to basically design a fuel system from scratch to work with the high vol fuel pump and direct injection, or somehow find a way to get rid of it and block of the D.I. injectors and go to a port injection setup. If you decided to keep the DI the next hurdle would be getting the LT1 ECU to communicate with the C6 BCM (if thats even possible). Thats just what i can think of off the top of my head. Your Dry sump def wont fit the LT1. Headers would also be a custom made deal as the LT motors have different style exhaust ports and placement. Overall I'd say no matter how you look at this route its far more trouble than its worth.
Even if it were easy I'd rather have the LS3. The GenV is twice as complex with little to no material benefit for the owner. DI, VVT and AFM are for regulatory compliance.
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Old Oct 19, 2022 | 02:36 PM
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I'd drop in a crate LS3 (non dry sump) or get a dry sump LS3 used...you can't buy them new and I don't think anyone makes the long nose crank for the LS3. Anything else is going to be a lot of work and money.
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Old Oct 19, 2022 | 02:46 PM
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Hi,
Thx for all of the info. I definitely do not want the headache of trying to make an LT1 fit. I could not find any info on that conversion. So it is probably for good reason.

As for my plans with the car, I just want a toy. I will probably do some SCCA with it, but that is not true track stuff. We do have a track near by I could play on it, but mostily it will be some street drags against some locals from time to time. I do want to keep it mostly streetable. I will probably drive it to golf tournaments out of town. So some hwy driving. Mainly I want a reliable ride with a little punch when I need it. I honestly don't know yet, so keeping my options open. It will probably never be radical. I might go force induction down the line.

With that said I will probably stay the LS3 route. I have been researching the L92 and L94 options. With both having the same block and the heads seem to only be the valves (hollow tube) being the difference. I might go that route and build something. I have a full machine shop at home, so any machine work I can do myself. Are there anything else really different with the L92/L94 truck engines? I think the L94 has the DOD and maybe the VVT. I know I can get deletes for these. Would that be the best option to delete them?

I guess the biggest question, is it worth buying an L92/L94 and building it or just go with a LS3? That seems like my hurdle at the moment. I have between $6k - $10K to spend on it. I would like to keep it down if I can, but that never really happens. haha Once you start down the rabbit hole it is hard to turn back.

The other question I have is with the dry sump oil system. From what I have read you need a crank with a longer snout to accommodate the oil pump. I have the canister and hoses, but not the oil pan or pump. I can pick these up for a decent price. Is there anything else that is needed to complete the dry sump setup? How much difference is it to go wet sump and do away with the dry sump. Is it worth it?

Since I will have the motor out I will probably want to update the pistons, rods and crank. Although what I have read the crank is fairly stout and can handle probably anything I might need. I am only looking for around 600hp at the wheel max. So would it be best to keep the stock crank and buy rods and pistons.

The last question is about the intake. Is the stock LS3 intake suffiecent? Is the L92/L94 intake okay? I read that the L94 has great bottom end torque below 6,000 rpm. If you port and polish and mill it .30 it can bump up the compression and flow nicely. Would you recommend a different intake if I go that route.

Sorry for all the questions. It sucks when you don't know anything in the realm. But it is fun learning!

Thanks,
-B
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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 09:30 AM
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So let me see if I can help with a few of these.

Originally Posted by Siddhi
Hi,
Thx for all of the info. I definitely do not want the headache of trying to make an LT1 fit. I could not find any info on that conversion. So it is probably for good reason.
Good Choice
As for my plans with the car, I just want a toy. I will probably do some SCCA with it, but that is not true track stuff. We do have a track near by I could play on it, but mostily it will be some street drags against some locals from time to time. I do want to keep it mostly streetable. I will probably drive it to golf tournaments out of town. So some hwy driving. Mainly I want a reliable ride with a little punch when I need it. I honestly don't know yet, so keeping my options open. It will probably never be radical. I might go force induction down the line.

With that said I will probably stay the LS3 route. I have been researching the L92 and L94 options. With both having the same block and the heads seem to only be the valves (hollow tube) being the difference. I might go that route and build something. I have a full machine shop at home, so any machine work I can do myself. Are there anything else really different with the L92/L94 truck engines? I think the L94 has the DOD and maybe the VVT. I know I can get deletes for these. Would that be the best option to delete them?
Def delete VVT and DOD if you go that route
I guess the biggest question, is it worth buying an L92/L94 and building it or just go with a LS3? That seems like my hurdle at the moment. I have between $6k - $10K to spend on it. I would like to keep it down if I can, but that never really happens. haha Once you start down the rabbit hole it is hard to turn back.
Probably save some headache to go LS3 but either is a viable choice.
The other question I have is with the dry sump oil system. From what I have read you need a crank with a longer snout to accommodate the oil pump. I have the canister and hoses, but not the oil pan or pump. I can pick these up for a decent price. Is there anything else that is needed to complete the dry sump setup? How much difference is it to go wet sump and do away with the dry sump. Is it worth it?
This is correct, the Dry sump LS3 does use a different crank from the normal one
Since I will have the motor out I will probably want to update the pistons, rods and crank. Although what I have read the crank is fairly stout and can handle probably anything I might need. I am only looking for around 600hp at the wheel max. So would it be best to keep the stock crank and buy rods and pistons.
this one I can't speak from any type of my own experience but I would talk to either Texas Speed, BTR, or one of the big companies about your goals and they should be able to point you in the right direction
The last question is about the intake. Is the stock LS3 intake suffiecent? Is the L92/L94 intake okay? I read that the L94 has great bottom end torque below 6,000 rpm. If you port and polish and mill it .30 it can bump up the compression and flow nicely. Would you recommend a different intake if I go that route.
LS3 intake flows extremely well stock. GPI will port and rod mod it for $400ish and ittl flow even better. I could be wrong but i dont believe the truck intakes will fit under the vette hood. Logical upgrade would be either a FAST or MSD but with your stated power goals LS3 will be sufficient.
Sorry for all the questions. It sucks when you don't know anything in the realm. But it is fun learning!

Thanks,
-B

I think your on the right track, Personally I'd probably call around and see if anyone sells a crate long block thats already set up for dry sump and boost. If your shooting for forced induction maybe skip the cam and look into an a&a or ecs kit. Make sure you budget some fuel system money in though. Better safe than sorry. Best of luck man!
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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 09:35 AM
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Thx StayinStock! I think this is the info I am looking for. I will check into a long block crate motor and see what is out there.
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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Siddhi
Thx StayinStock! I think this is the info I am looking for. I will check into a long block crate motor and see what is out there.
No problem man, keep us updated with your progress! Your gonna love it!
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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 08:51 PM
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So I found an LS3 that seems to be in pretty good shape. The builder says he sent through the motor and it has new clevite bearins and stock internals. I have an intake, but it does not have any injectors. I am thinking about leaving the stock crank and just upgrading the pistons and rods. And refreshing the gasket kit. This brings me to a few questions I hope you guys can help with.

1. Should I stay with the stock injectors? I am thinking about upgrading them though, since I am upgrading the internals.I believe the stock injectors are 38lbs. I have read that the Z06 injectors are 40lbs and are a good upgrade. Are there better recommendations?

2. I want to go budget on the rods and pistons. What is a decent brand that does not break the bank? I have used Eagle products in the past with good luck. Are they worth putting in or is there a better option?

3. The engine has an Elgin 1840 Cam in it. Is that a decent cam to start with? Or while I am there should I look to upgrade it also?

Thanks! I appreciate the help.

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Old Oct 25, 2022 | 09:09 AM
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Bump
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Old Oct 25, 2022 | 09:26 AM
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Been offline for a few days but just saw this, ill see if i can help again.
Originally Posted by Siddhi
So I found an LS3 that seems to be in pretty good shape. The builder says he sent through the motor and it has new clevite bearins and stock internals. I have an intake, but it does not have any injectors. I am thinking about leaving the stock crank and just upgrading the pistons and rods. And refreshing the gasket kit. This brings me to a few questions I hope you guys can help with.

1. Should I stay with the stock injectors? I am thinking about upgrading them though, since I am upgrading the internals.I believe the stock injectors are 38lbs. I have read that the Z06 injectors are 40lbs and are a good upgrade. Are there better recommendations?
Injectors depend entirely on what setup your doing and how much fuel it will require, I would save this as your last step and have a discussion with your tuner about it. Theirs formulas to figure out the right flow rate and size. I'd get all your other ducks in a row first and then figure this one out when its time to get it over to the dyno.
2. I want to go budget on the rods and pistons. What is a decent brand that does not break the bank? I have used Eagle products in the past with good luck. Are they worth putting in or is there a better option?
I personally have heard good things about the TSP drop in rods and pistons but I'm no engine builder so I can only go off of what I've heard. Again really depends on your end game goal and where you want your compression to be.
3. The engine has an Elgin 1840 Cam in it. Is that a decent cam to start with? Or while I am there should I look to upgrade it also?
Just looked up the specs, fairly mild cam, probably would have great street manners. If you plan on going boosted though there's better options.
Thanks! I appreciate the help.
Honestly I think the best thing for you to do would be talk to whoever is going to be doing the tuning and run this stuff by them. They'll probably be able to get you alot better info on what combinations they recommend and what you'll need. Lots of variables to consider. If your plan is to eventually boost the car I wouldn't cheap out on rods and pistons, Your there at the point where its easy to do, A little more spent here now could save you alot of headache or heartache down the road. I know its easy to say you'll just boost it and want to make 550-600 wheel but it rarely ever ends up that way (been there myself, had a damn reliable 600hp street car and was like naaaa lets try to make 800, things were destroyed lol). Just my two cents. I think your on the right track for sure
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Old Oct 26, 2022 | 01:07 PM
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As far as drivability, what you have will work just fine. For the cam, you can stick with it, but like StayinStock recommended, run it by a tuner. If you are dead set on getting a good cam, you can also check with some of the cam builders (PatG, SpinMonster, etc.) and see what they offer. From 15+ years of threads, the SpinMonster cam is supposed to give you good street manners both NA and FI, so it gives you a good option. You also want to think about what you will do with the heads and intake. If you are going to put this much work into it, its gotta breath. As for the internals, from a budget standpoint, I think its a tossup. I dont think one brand is better than the other. If I remember correctly, the TSP crank and rods are based off the Eagle set up.
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