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My engine builder says to use valvoline vr1 20w50 in my 5.3 sleeved to a 427. At wot I see 80 psi oil pressure from about 4000 to redline. I have been told by others this will blow my seals out eventually & will actually lubricate less. So, can I move to a 10w40, or 0w40?? Any info is greatly appreciated.
I agree. Unless you're racing at Bonneville, or running mile long runs in 110°+ ambient temps, I can't see any need to run oil that thick. The thicker the oil, the higher the bearing and oil temps, all else equal. It also slightly increases the amount power required to circulate it. I know Mobil 1 makes 15w-50, and I used that once when wife and I took a 2 week vacation from Michigan to California. Only because ambient temps were 120° in places, as it was the last 2 weeks of July. Had no issues, but I changed back to 0w-40 M1 as soon as I could upon returning home. I wouldn't ever use 20w-50. That sounds like air cooled motorcycle oil......
Yeh, I see a lot of people going to 0w40 from 20w50. Just wondering if it would be ok, I live in n.c., so doesn't get super hot or super cold. We might get in the teens in winter for a few days & rarely over 95 in the summer
Last edited by Littlered2009corvett; Nov 25, 2022 at 03:44 PM.
My builder told me to use 15W-50. I thought I was smarter and went to 5w-40 so oil would get up to the valve train quicker upon startup. It was a mistake. Engine noise increased considerably and I burned about 1 quart in 500 miles. I went back to15w-50. Evidently my rings are gapped for blowby based on this weight oil.
Maybe it's a regional thing, but I've never seen 2 types of 0w-40 synthetic M1 in my area of Michigan. I run the same as you, the Euro-Spec.....
I just noticed the "other" 0w40 several months ago. It's a Dexos2 spec for the newer LT engines in Vette and Camaros. Here's the product guide. mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide (5).pdf
I just noticed the "other" 0w40 several months ago. It's a Dexos2 spec for the newer LT engines in Vette and Camaros. Here's the product guide. mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide (5).pdf
Thanks motorhead! Learn something new every day, at least here on the forum!!
Thanks motorhead! Learn something new every day, at least here on the forum!!
The only reason I noticed is because I almost walked out of Wallyworld with the wrong chit. The labeling was just enough different to force a little closer look.
I would voice your concerns to your engine builder before taking advice from a forum. We don't know what clearances were used in the build. If your builder recommended the heavier weight oil, your clearances must be on the looser side.
I would voice your concerns to your engine builder before taking advice from a forum. We don't know what clearances were used in the build. If your builder recommended the heavier weight oil, your clearances must be on the looser side.
As an engine guy myself, I can see absolutely no use for a 20w-50 weight oil in ANY gasoline powered, water cooled V8. 50 weight protection is 50 weight protection, whether 20w-50, or 15w-50. 15w-50 flows better when cold (one of the most critical, and highest wear times), and would be my choice over 20w-50 any day. But both would probably be better suited in an air-cooled motorcycle engine. I have a 600+hp LS7 in my C5, and use only 0w-40 Mobil 1. Hard to imagine a water cooled gasoline-powered V8 needing any better protection than 40 weight oil, unless youre tracking the car. If I was racing at Talladega, or Daytona, maybe a 50 weight would be OK. Some guys here that track their cars may benefit. But most of us don't do that. His engine, his choice.....
As an engine guy myself, I can see absolutely no use for a 20w-50 weight oil in ANY gasoline powered, water cooled V8. 50 weight protection is 50 weight protection, whether 20w-50, or 15w-50. 15w-50 flows better when cold (one of the most critical, and highest wear times), and would be my choice over 20w-50 any day. But both would probably be better suited in an air-cooled motorcycle engine. I have a 600+hp LS7 in my C5, and use only 0w-40 Mobil 1. Hard to imagine a water cooled gasoline-powered V8 needing any better protection than 40 weight oil, unless youre tracking the car. If I was racing at Talladega, or Daytona, maybe a 50 weight would be OK. Some guys here that track their cars may benefit. But most of us don't do that. His engine, his choice.....
That's fine but you didn't build the engine in this case. The engine builder suggested an oil/weight that he knows works for the clearances he set. Doesn't matter what anyone else thinks or likes or says. That's why I said to talk to the builder to see what options he has.
FWIW, my builder also recommends 20-50 VR1 and his engines last a long time and most are built for 4 digit power and used as such. We only recently found out that VR1 and methanol don't react well, but that's a different situation entirely.
I build a million dollars of circle track race engines at $60,000 a piece for a living and if your engine builder tells you to run 20-50 id stick with. When he put it together and did your bearing clearances he did that with 20-50 in mind. Valvoline VR1 is a very good oil, I ran it in my own engines for years with great success. We run Driven Race oil exclusively in every engine we sell and that could be a alternative to the VR1, Driven makes a GP1 semi synthetic oil which is 20w-50 with high zinc content
I build a million dollars of circle track race engines at $60,000 a piece for a living and if your engine builder tells you to run 20-50 id stick with. When he put it together and did your bearing clearances he did that with 20-50 in mind. Valvoline VR1 is a very good oil, I ran it in my own engines for years with great success. We run Driven Race oil exclusively in every engine we sell and that could be a alternative to the VR1, Driven makes a GP1 semi synthetic oil which is 20w-50 with high zinc content
That's fine but you didn't build the engine in this case. The engine builder suggested an oil/weight that he knows works for the clearances he set. Doesn't matter what anyone else thinks or likes or says. That's why I said to talk to the builder to see what options he has.
FWIW, my builder also recommends 20-50 VR1 and his engines last a long time and most are built for 4 digit power and used as such. We only recently found out that VR1 and methanol don't react well, but that's a different situation entirely.
In theory, I agree with you. Most of my life, I've built my own engines. So, like you, I've got a lot of experience. That said, I had this LS7 built by a very reputable builder in Michigan, because I was working 7 days a week, 12 hours a day M-F, 8hrs on Saturday, 8hrs on Sunday, 76 hours/week. I took the completed engine home, directly from his shop to my garage. BUT-He lost all credibility with me when I asked him what oil I should run. He said "10w-40, and don't run synthetic oil!!" I asked him "do you mean during break-in?" He said "I mean never!!" So, sometimes a little thought, if you have any engine building experience, along with recommendations, can go a long way. I still can't believe he told me not to run synthetic oil!!! In fact, it's getting hard to find plain old motor oil nowadays, just about anywhere. Most of it is either full synthetic, or a synthetic blend......