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Can someone give me some info on what all is usually involved with a valve job? The reason I ask is because I had a shop pull my motor and send it off to a machine shop to be freshened up. Everything was fine with it except they ended up doing a valve job. From what I understand the seating area of the valve was too wide, or at least I think…. Has anyone ever heard of a bone stock low mileage LS3 having issues that would require a valve job? If so what could cause it? I had some excessive ticking that I could isolate to certain cylinders so I’m thinking it was because of this. Everything I’ve read basically says these motors are solid as hell, So I’m not sure what caused the issue but what exactly does a valve job usually involve?
"I had a shop pull my motor and send it off to a machine shop to be freshened up"
OK, why? What was the problem?
Did they only do a valve job?
Usually, when you send a whole engine out, it would be to get a major overhaul.
Yes, valves do wear over time, but it's not unusual for modern engines to go 200+k miles without needing valve work. But, on a engine getting a complete rebuild, it is common to do a valve job even if not totally needed. It is cost effective over the long run.
"I had a shop pull my motor and send it off to a machine shop to be freshened up"
OK, why? What was the problem?
Did they only do a valve job?
Usually, when you send a whole engine out, it would be to get a major overhaul.
Yes, valves do wear over time, but it's not unusual for modern engines to go 200+k miles without needing valve work. But, on a engine getting a complete rebuild, it is common to do a valve job even if not totally needed. It is cost effective over the long run.
So here’s the story. Bought the car a little over two years ago, bone stock, and it had some excessive ticking in the motor once it warmed up, nothing crazy just sounded like a noisy lifter. I had new LS7 lifters and a CHE trunnion kit installed. It did quieten down the motor some but I still had an occasional tick around cylinder 1. One day I pulled the valve cover to check things out and found a lot of fine metal shavings. I cut open the oil filter and had metal shavings in the filter also. Fast forward to this past summer when I cranked the car one morning and had a terrible ticking sound, a lifter had collapsed… I took the car to a performance shop, where it’s at right now, and told them to pull the motor and change all the bearings and clean it out good because I’m having them put a new cam and supporting valvetrain in and did not want to have more issues after doing that. The shop sent the motor off to their machine shop where they cleaned the motor, put in new rings and Bearings, assembled the short block and did a valve job. The shop doing my cam told me the valve job was done because the valve seat area was too wide or something, I’m not positive.
If I pull a set of heads for whatever reason and they have more than a few miles, I'm going to do a clean up mill to get the surfaces perfectly flat. To do that, you need to disassemble the heads for cleanup. At that point, it's just not that much more money to do a valve job. What you get back is essentially a new set of heads to bolt back on. Good opportunity to upgrade the valve springs as well. It doesn't cost any more ( labor wise) to assemble the heads with new valve springs and seals vs using your old chit.
If I pull a set of heads for whatever reason and they have more than a few miles, I'm going to do a clean up mill to get the surfaces perfectly flat. To do that, you need to disassemble the heads for cleanup. At that point, it's just not that much more money to do a valve job. What you get back is essentially a new set of heads to bolt back on. Good opportunity to upgrade the valve springs as well. It doesn't cost any more ( labor wise) to assemble the heads with new valve springs and seals vs using your old chit.
Yep I’m getting new springs and pushrods in the cam kit. Not sure if they did an actual cleanup mill or not, prob so, but I do know the shop owner told me the machine shop said the valve job was beat up pretty bad. I’m sure it’s common to just do it while you’re in there but apparently mine definitely needed it
The valve guides wear and can allow the valve to wobble a bit. This can wear the valve seats.
A 3 angle valve job has the seat ground at 45 degrees with a 30 degree ground at the edge. The valve itself is ground at 44 degrees which gives a very thin contact area to help seal the valve. This can wear down and the interference of the 44 and 45 can flatten out a bit and widen the sealing point. This can cause leaking of compression failure and in some cases the hot gases will start to burn a channel in either the valve or seat or both. This is what is called a burned valve. Things may have changed a bit since I did valve jobs in the late 80's but sure the basics are the same.
The valve guides wear and can allow the valve to wobble a bit. This can wear the valve seats.
A 3 angle valve job has the seat ground at 45 degrees with a 30 degree ground at the edge. The valve itself is ground at 44 degrees which gives a very thin contact area to help seal the valve. This can wear down and the interference of the 44 and 45 can flatten out a bit and widen the sealing point. This can cause leaking of compression failure and in some cases the hot gases will start to burn a channel in either the valve or seat or both. This is what is called a burned valve. Things may have changed a bit since I did valve jobs in the late 80's but sure the basics are the same.
I’d say this is probably what happened to me with the valves wobbling. Here’s a dumb question, how much is involved with having the valve guides replaced? I might be wrong but I don’t believe the machine shop did new valve guides and the shop doing my work never mentioned it either. I would imagine this is something I should consider before having them put it all back together so it doesn’t happen again.
Again, it's been a long time....
Old days small block Chevy you would have to ream the old guides out and press in new guides. New stuff is probably guide inserts already so just drive out the old and in with the new. Then run a reamer to ensure proper diameter. Also knurling the guides give a path for better oiling and they tend to last longer. Back then bronze guides were the way to go but I'm sure they have better materials these days.