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I've decided to get new LS3 heads, already bought an LS3 intake, and a 25% UD SFI damper. I figure if I'm going in there to change the damper I might as well go a few more bolts in and do a cam.
If there is a LITTLE lope, that's ok, but I don't want a rough idle - I'm past that age.
The cams I'm looking at are:
Comp 54-424-11 1400 to 6700 XR265HR 265 271 212 218 .558 .563 115°
Comp 54-453-11 1500 to 6700 269LRR HR13 269 285 219 235 .607 .621 113°
Cam Motion LS2 stg3 218/224 .553"/.553" (or high lift .595) Lobe sep 116 c/l 113
Cam Motion LS3 stg2 216/226 .553"/.553" Lobe sep 116 c/l 113
I kind of like the idea of the lower lift cams and not having to change the valve springs, but if the extra lift would significantly help the torque, I'd go that route.
Again, this is NOT a race car, just a fun daily driver. I'd like it to have a little bit of a lumpy idle, just enough so you can hear that it's not stock, but not shake the car and sound like it needs to idle at 900 to keep from stalling. I need it to idle at 650 or so, pull good vacuum, and make good "street power", not just pull hard from 4500 and up.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I'll have the Borla S-Type back half, and either the Speed Engineering long tubes with cats and 3" x-pipe or Z06/ZR-1 manifolds and cats with the 3" x-pipe.
Last edited by mcm95403; Dec 25, 2022 at 05:47 PM.
Both cams are daily driver friendly.
Spinmonster-cam-tsp-custom-grind-ls2-cam-only-results is probably more in line with your overall desired goals.
Summit's Racing Stage 1 Pro LS Ghost Cam 222/233 115+3, .600/.575 Lift would be the smallest to consider for a daily driver type LS2 in my honest opinion.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird TA; Dec 25, 2022 at 04:03 PM.
Both cams are daily driver friendly.
Spinmonster-cam-tsp-custom-grind-ls2-cam-only-results is probably more in line with your overall desired goals.
Summit's Racing Stage 1 Pro LS Ghost Cam 222/233 115+3, .600/.575 Lift would be the smallest to consider for a daily driver type LS2 in my honest opinion.


Your valvetrain will last a long long time.
Besides more camshaft, I'd change up a few other things on your build. You're going to lose significant static compression ratio with the LS3 heads. That hurts power, drivability, and fuel eco in a street car. You can get some of it back with milling and a thinner head gasket. Better yet, CNC port, mill, and use a thinner head gasket with the 243/799 LS2 heads you have and you're ahead in the ball game. Well ported LS2 heads compare pretty well with stock LS3 heads flow wise. Tx Speed can CNC port, mill, do a competition valve job, clean, assemble with your valve spring of choice, for around $800.
I think you're needlessly worried about big cam issues. Absolutely, you can go too big and have issues. The only cam in your list that has potential for bad manners is the LRR Comp Cam. I'm guessing that's actually an LSR cam ground on Comp's LSL lobes. Those are fairly aggressive lobes that I wouldn't use on a street car.
Back to cam choice and the trade offs. My wife drives my M6 Vette just fine with a 226/234 115lsa cam. 0 overlap. She's 64 years young. It will idle smoothly along in 6th gear at under 40 mph. There's no "shifting out of the bad spots" because there aren't any. I can accelerate to about 34 mph without touching the accelerator pedal. Just shift through the gears from a standing stop. An auto car would have no trouble. It makes more power than a stocker from idle on up. The tuner started my dyno run at idle. Outside of a little less fuel eco in town, there's no down side to it. Yes, it does have a little bit of a rough idle. I have 1.875" long tubes and no cats. I can deal with a bit of a rough idle when it's packaged with really good power and perfect manners.
If you want kind of mediocre results, you're on the right track. You can do better though

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Besides more camshaft, I'd change up a few other things on your build. You're going to lose significant static compression ratio with the LS3 heads. That hurts power, drivability, and fuel eco in a street car. You can get some of it back with milling and a thinner head gasket. Better yet, CNC port, mill, and use a thinner head gasket with the 243/799 LS2 heads you have and you're ahead in the ball game. Well ported LS2 heads compare pretty well with stock LS3 heads flow wise. Tx Speed can CNC port, mill, do a competition valve job, clean, assemble with your valve spring of choice, for around $800.
I think you're needlessly worried about big cam issues. Absolutely, you can go too big and have issues. The only cam in your list that has potential for bad manners is the LRR Comp Cam. I'm guessing that's actually an LSR cam ground on Comp's LSL lobes. Those are fairly aggressive lobes that I wouldn't use on a street car.
Back to cam choice and the trade offs. My wife drives my M6 Vette just fine with a 226/234 115lsa cam. 0 overlap. She's 64 years young. It will idle smoothly along in 6th gear at under 40 mph. There's no "shifting out of the bad spots" because there aren't any. I can accelerate to about 34 mph without touching the accelerator pedal. Just shift through the gears from a standing stop. An auto car would have no trouble. It makes more power than a stocker from idle on up. The tuner started my dyno run at idle. Outside of a little less fuel eco in town, there's no down side to it. Yes, it does have a little bit of a rough idle. I have 1.875" long tubes and no cats. I can deal with a bit of a rough idle when it's packaged with really good power and perfect manners.
If you want kind of mediocre results, you're on the right track. You can do better though

The cam I used on my Vette build is mild enough that it drove around just fine on the stock tune. I just didn't do any WOT stuff until the tune was done.
The cam I used on my Vette build is mild enough that it drove around just fine on the stock tune. I just didn't do any WOT stuff until the tune was done.
I might do an MSD - had one before - but even that I'd send for porting as the ports weren't "right".
Better to just keep it simple at this point. I'll probably do an MSD intake since it's cheaper than the the LS3 stuff, but I can do that whenever I want.
Thanks for all the input guys!
Pushing toward 60 here & all four of my cars are built & cam'd to be very much daily driver's. Intake duration isn't the enemy of good stock like driveablity as long as the overlap is zero or less.
That Ghost Cam is very well mannered with a decent tune. It has -2 degrees of overlap at .050 my old 224/224 XER had 0 degrees and drove like stock on a mail order tune except up hill in a parking deck. The Ghost is even more daily driver friendly.
Have fun in any case.





I might do an MSD - had one before - but even that I'd send for porting as the ports weren't "right".
Use a slow ramp camshaft, like TFS-30602001
Slow ramps prevent guide abuse, increase stability at high RPM.
PAC1218 is a great spring if its an option for you.
With TFS-30602001 and PAC1218 for example are successfully 600rwhp to 800rwhp daily drivers on forced induction










