Hello everyone today I'm doing a cam swap and I'm already done with the tear down stage and I tried to rotate the cam and it's solid hard , now I have not opened the valve covers yet so I'm guessing I have to pull out the rockers to loose the tension? It's my first cam swap and the reason I have not opened the heads is bcuz I'm currently awaiting for my springs and lifter to be delivered. Pls suggestions

 

You're kidding right?

Tom

 

Gotta love the effort. Just keep asking questions!!
I've built couple cars but would never change a cam on my own Lol.
I would image having to remove the rockers, pushrods and lifter trays before rotating the cam and of course removing it.

 

Close. Lifter trays stay in place. OP should watch some youtube videos before going farther. Mostly to see how to keep lifters from dropping into the motor when the cam comes out.

 

I figured it out my man I'm not a performance guru but I can hold my own during bolt ons. I never knew that's why people always started on the heads.

 

Thanks for not bashing me , I figured it out and I'm already assembling everything back together, I did watched a couple of videos but they never explained why to start on the heads first. Now I know

 

Can you explain how you ended up doing it? I'd hate for you to have a lifter drop, spin, etc.

 

yes not a problem , after I removed the rockers I inserted 5/16" dowels on both sides and slowly began to remove the cam. Now if I dropped a lifter then the push rod would no longer have been there correct?

 

Correct. If a lifter dropped the pushrod would also drop. The dowel rods pretty much eliminate the possibility. Sounds like you are doing everything needed to get the job done.

 

Thank you for the positive feedback my man much appreciated.. should be running by today

 

I'll try to help you best I can. Whew, where to begin.....Well-You're going to have to remove the intake manifold, then valve covers, so remove those. Then, with a 6 point 8mm socket, remove all 16 rockers. Drivers side cylinders are "odd", numbered 1, 3, 5, and 7, with #1 at the front of the engine. Passenger side is even numbered, 2, 4, 6, and 8, with #2 at the front. I ALWAYS keep the rockers numbered to the valve they're worn to. So, on #1, you have #1 intake (1 I), and #1 exhaust (1E). Mark with a white paint marker, on a ziploc bag. Remove the pushrods. Yes, I'm **** about numbering them with an I and E to the matching rocker, too! Now you must remove the heads, as it's the only way to access the lifters. FIRST-Drain the radiator of its coolant. Then remove the exhaust pipes/manifolds, and lastly, each head. Now you you can remove all 16 lifters and do whatever you want with them. Lastly, remove the cam driven gear, and cam retainer plate. Stick a LONG screwdriver/small diameter pipe/whatever into the camshaft bore, and support the cam with that as you pull the old cam out of the block. Install is reverse of removal, with proper torque wrenches and values/tightening sequences. Use NEW SEALS AND GASKETS!!! Hope this helps, and best of luck to you.......

 

. Thank you very much my friend yesterday I was able to put everything back together and only thing left to do is adjust the valves for the start up but I'm going to wait for the springs and rods that way I don't do double the work bcuz taking out the steering rack is a pain in the ***
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I thought you were changing lifters, too??? No need for dowels if you're changing lifters, too.......

 

This will teach me to read an entire thread before posting a shop manual!!!!

 

The valves on the LS engines are not adjustable.

 

Of course the valves them selfs are not adjusted but the valve ,spring , rods , rockers and lifters work as a unit you get the picture or at least what I was trying to say right.

 

Lifters will have to wait till I drop the oil pan so I can doit from the bottom seen it done that way bfor or till I remove the heads. Car hardly moves and only sees the road at least once or twice a month , I travel for work so it just sits

 

What I was saying is that the lifter preload is not adjustable via a rocker arm nut you would tighten or loosen (like on an old small block Chevy engine) in order to increase or decease the lifter's preload.

To change the valve lifter preload on the LS engines, you change the length of the pushrod ... a longer pushrod gives you more lifter preload and a shorter pushrod gets you less lifter preload.

 

Yes 👍 thank you for clarifying it , I got a question for you since you have good knowledge. I installed a stg3 BTR cam 218/224 .553/.553 110 LSA order some .560 BTR springs and 7.40 push rods think the rods are too long or should I have gone with shorter ones?

 

Higher lift cams usually come with a smaller base circle which would require longer pushrods. Call BTR and check, but I'd bet the base circle of that cam will allow stock length pushrods.