Hi all. Currently have a C3 and looking for a C6. I live in a part of the world where there isn’t an awful lot of choice in Corvettes, so it means I’m considering cars that I might otherwise walk away from.

One such car is a 2006 base model, 120,000 miles. Asking $9000 USD. Haven’t had the car up on a lift or for a detailed inspection because I’m not sure it’s worth even considering any further.

I’m quite handy and would plan on doing quite a bit of the work myself should I pick the car up.

First issues - It’s running fairly rough and has codes P0204 cylinder 4 injector, P0101 MAF and P0300 random multiple misfire.

I’m thinking worst case new MAF sensor and injectors and hopefully it runs ok. The seller has just replaced the leads, and I realise it could be a number of things - leads, plugs coils etc.

Second issue - brake booster vacuum leak (I suspect). Whooshing sound when I press the pedal, brakes certainly not great. Had trouble holding the car while in D without using the e brake. Would anticipate inspecting and also bleeding the brakes.

Third issue and one that concerns me more because I’m not really sure what it could be. While sitting and idling with the car in P, there is a ticking from the rear which is loudest near the rear wheels - see video.

Not sure what it could be. Torque tube? Is that spinning while in P? If any of you know I’d love to hear it! Also if it could be multiple things,
what’s the worst case scenario?

With all that in mind am I nuts for considering this car? It presents quite well apart from these issues (interior and body). I’ve looked at quite a number of other cars, and for some reason this one has grabbed me despite its flaws. Yes it’s red, maybe I like the idea of a fixer upper.

Anyway, comments and opinions appreciated!

 

if they are some easy fixes, the own would have done it already.

 

"How Ya Goin"? and WELCOME to the Forum !!...can't tell you conclusively if it's a TT coupling but they can sound like a tapping noise or a bag of rocks being shaken and yes it will be spinning with the car in Park...there is a TSB for this (see below) and it can also cause your P0300...a vibration like this can slow the crankshaft down momentarily which the ECM can interpret as a misfire from the crank sensor...as far as the P0204 WORST case is a bad ECM...the injector control circuit is ground side switched...the ECM provides that ground if no ground or a broken wire from the ECM it will throw a P0204...can be an injector too...a simple 12 volt test light can diagnose this...this may also be your P0300...the P0101 can just be a dirty MAF sensor but you'll need a scan tool that can look at MAF airflow in grams per second and total fuel trims and this grams/second should be around 6.0-6.2 "hot unloaded" idle and then you'd also be looking at frequency with a snap acceleration...looking at the power, ground, and signal helps too just to make sure there are no wiring issue...a dirty MAF will normally have negative fuel trims at idle which go positive under a load…I see your Down Under but if you have any diagnostic shops in your area that really know how to diagnose cars and not replace parts that would help you decide if you want to purchase the car.


#PIP5067A: P0300 Random Misfires on Random Cylinder - (Jan 25, 2018) Subject: P0300 Random Misfires on Random Cylinder Brand:


Chevrolet Corvette

2001-2013
Supersession Statement:This PI was superseded to update Recommendation/Instructions and Warranty Information. Please discard PIP5067.

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/ConcernA vehicle may come in with a customer concern of a SES lamp and misfire.

It may have P0301-P0308 or P0300 only.
Recommendation/InstructionsFollow the instructions listed in this PI if SI misfire diagnostics does not isolate the root cause.

Before engine disassembly the torque tube coupling should be inspected for damage.

** Remove the inspection cover from the rear torque converter cover and from the engine bell housing cover.

** Rotate the engine to access the torque converter bolt, put a wrench on the bolt, move it back and forth watching for movement at the flywheel (should be virtually none).

** It has been reported to have up to 4 inches of travel without moving the flywheel on failed couplings.

 

Yep, valid point.



Thanks for the reply. I’ve decided to pass on this car, the upside isn’t enough to justify the money/risk. I have seen some of the same codes on other cars I’ve checked out so good info to have!

 

$9k is cheap, if the car was in the US the car would be worth more than $9k in parts.