No Crank No Start
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 125
Likes: 9
From: Chattanooga, TN
I just shorted the clutch position sensor together and it’s starts every time!!!
well damn, I hope it is that easy! I will figure out a robust way to leave them jumped until I get a new sensor I guess.
we shall see! I owe you a virtual beer, as well as C5 diagram he is the man.
hopefully nothing but good news to report
well damn, I hope it is that easy! I will figure out a robust way to leave them jumped until I get a new sensor I guess.
we shall see! I owe you a virtual beer, as well as C5 diagram he is the man.
hopefully nothing but good news to report
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 125
Likes: 9
From: Chattanooga, TN
Well, new clutch position sensor (genuine GM) does nothing, still does not crank. Even using the jumper wire that was still in place from the previous night, nothing touched or changed, gave nothing. No noise, no crank, just the dash lights shutting down then back on.
It has been on a battery charger for 2 days straight, still showing 11.9-12.4 V depending on if I try to start it. I doubt it is the battery.
I will try to locate all the CAN bus connectors I guess, check relays, fuses. It started up fine with the clutch position sensor harness jumped the other night about 25 times in a row, no fail or slow crank or anything.
I am so depressed over this, as this has been my dream car since I was 10...
It has been on a battery charger for 2 days straight, still showing 11.9-12.4 V depending on if I try to start it. I doubt it is the battery.
I will try to locate all the CAN bus connectors I guess, check relays, fuses. It started up fine with the clutch position sensor harness jumped the other night about 25 times in a row, no fail or slow crank or anything.
I am so depressed over this, as this has been my dream car since I was 10...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 125
Likes: 9
From: Chattanooga, TN
With the resistance reading higher than the normal 60 ohms you will have to check each CAN wire between all the modules..no need to come to Florida but you have to find the RIGHT shop to handle this…not a general repair shop or a dealership…a DIAGNOSTIC shop or auto electric shop can easily find the problem…not to much else I can help you with !!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 125
Likes: 9
From: Chattanooga, TN
Well, the car has been fine until last night. It would not crank, would not start. Battery voltage at 12.4 volts, put it on a charger all night.
Last weeked, it took off every single ground point on the car, wire brushed, contact cleaner and dialectric grease. same for the module behind passenger front tire.
Under hood relays look fine also, one had bee burned slightly last spring, and had replaced it (fuel pump relay).
This morning still would not start. I unhooked both battery terminals, then on a whim put them back on, not even tightened and it started every time!
I had already cleaned the terminals and posts and put dialiectric grease on them. Negative was slightly loose, add a battery shim, and after all of that last week, both terminals could not be budged by hand, and all was well.
Any ideas why removing the terminals and putting back on like a minuted later allows it to start now?
There is now a service engine soon message on the DIC, but no codes show up on my code reader.
ANY ideas would be greatly appreciated, as I am scared to drive my dream car anywhere...
Last weeked, it took off every single ground point on the car, wire brushed, contact cleaner and dialectric grease. same for the module behind passenger front tire.
Under hood relays look fine also, one had bee burned slightly last spring, and had replaced it (fuel pump relay).
This morning still would not start. I unhooked both battery terminals, then on a whim put them back on, not even tightened and it started every time!
I had already cleaned the terminals and posts and put dialiectric grease on them. Negative was slightly loose, add a battery shim, and after all of that last week, both terminals could not be budged by hand, and all was well.
Any ideas why removing the terminals and putting back on like a minuted later allows it to start now?
There is now a service engine soon message on the DIC, but no codes show up on my code reader.
ANY ideas would be greatly appreciated, as I am scared to drive my dream car anywhere...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 125
Likes: 9
From: Chattanooga, TN
Is that a free thing that Chevy dealer will fix?
thank you. ANY advice at this point is more than welcome… I will buy you all a virtual beer!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 552
From: Pittsburgh PA
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Ask your dealer for TSB # (18-NA 346) Permanent Column Lock Resolution Issued Nov 14, 2018. There will be a charge – I’m thinking around $100 but they can quote a price.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 125
Likes: 9
From: Chattanooga, TN
also, I have read about the DIY bypass install.
I have seen a few on EBay.
what is it and do I get the most reliable, proven bypass unit? I see some mentioned in older threads, but I am looking at this option and want to spend my money wisely.
thank you
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 552
From: Pittsburgh PA
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13-'14
I don't know any more about the bypass than what a search of the Forum would turn up. In general I seem to recall that the bypass is not always a permanent fix and is not the preferred solution since the TSB was issued. Good luck with whatever you end up doing.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 365
Likes: 93
From: Chesterfield VA
Have you looked at the starter? The C6 has a starter solenoid with a single wire connector on it. This is what signals the starter to turnover. It is VERY common for this connection to be somewhat loose and get hot and it cracks the housing. YOU have the EXACT symptom for this. If you have power everywhere else but no crank this is the first thing I would check.