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I had a DIY test rig and I’m surmising it was not the most reliable. I made a new one today and tested at the pierce @50, back probed at 50, really pin 86 and the rear wheel well connector. I cranked the engine each time and the rest light lit at all 4 locations. Also had 12v at each.
The only thing I’m not getting is a 2s prime, but I am getting the power to pump on cranking. I thought that was your previous suggestion?
I’m not sure if disconnecting and reconnecting the ECM connector had anything to to with it but if you’re certain that circuit is good between the ECM and the relay is good we can take that off the table…I don’t know the ECM’s internal circuitry so I can’t say why terminal 86 is energized cranking but no 2 second prime… maybe someone more knowledgeable than me may chime in !!
I’m certain the ECM to relay leg of the circuit is good. After today I am. I did question it yesterday. I’m not ruling out an ECM issue. BUT, I’m getting power while cranking at all the right spots. I don’t like the idea of no prime, but I really don’t know how to test that without giving a known good pump a try. Getting power at th rear connector today is what sold me on it being the pump. Not saying can’t be both too.
As long as the test light illuminates at relay terminal 86 and that control side has a good ground the relay load side (87 and 30) should latch and you should have power back to the pump…you can wire that 9005 bulb into the harness at the back and try cranking and see if the bulb lights…I think it’s a 4 or 5 amp bulb…if the bulb lights ok the new pump should work ok.
A little tip to help with diagnosing fuel delivery problems:
Try using your Tech2 to command the fuel pump relay on. It will stay on regardless of the motor turning. This makes it much easier to test the fuel pump, relay, trigger and power circuits without having to crank the starter or worry about a "2 second prime".
A little tip to help with diagnosing fuel delivery problems:
Try using your Tech2 to command the fuel pump relay on. It will stay on regardless of the motor turning. This makes it much easier to test the fuel pump, relay, trigger and power circuits without having to crank the starter or worry about a "2 second prime".
You can “command the fuel pump relay on” as you mentioned by just jumping the load side of the relay…you don’t need a Tech 2 to do this !!…not all members can afford even a Chinese “clone” Tech 2 for a few hundred dollars or a used “real” Tech 2 for a few thousand !!
I don't own a Tech2, but will soon. I had Nissan DataScan on my laptop for all my OBD1 Nissan cars, and it was invaluable. It will most definitely be a clone.
So update, Racetronix fuel pump arrived. I jumpered it to the rear wheel well fuell pump connection and the pump primed like normal. So 100% sure my fuel pump is beat. Interesting that I couldn't get the 2s prime without a pump on the circuit. Maybe PCM as a way to check resistance or amps on the return ground to tell if a the pump is connected and initiate a prime? Feels far too complex with not a whole lot of value, but maybe?
Either way, I'll be dropping the tank and replacing. I always make it a point for my threads to have closure and spread knowledge. I'll follow with any value added information after I'm done.
Quick question: How do you siphon gas out of the tank? I bought a little hand pump, but the hose gets hung up on what I believe is the fuel pump housing inside. I can't get it past the top of the tree and unfortunately had roughly 80% full tank when it failed.
Me again. So, since this fuel pump/sender replacements, I've had the fuel pump connection in the fuse block overheat. I replaced the gray block and the connector and all was well for some time.
Yesterday, go out to start it, no fuel pressure again, verified with gauge. Pulled the fuse block apart thinking maybe the same fuse block overheating pin again and all looked well. I've replaced the relay. Also the fuse is good. At this point, while I'm at a loss, what am I missing as to why I keep having fueling issues? It just seems like this is recurring too often to feel that the system is trustworthy.
So far:
New Racetronix pump
New level senders
Fixed fuse block overheat
New relays
Good fuse
What else is there - is it really just wiring now? Reason for asking, is that it's at my work and I'm limited what I can troubleshoot here. Luckily it's a safe lot.
Looks like you've been trying to diagnose this for over 3 years...maybe time to bring the car to an automotive electrical specialist...you need to use a wiring diagram and start from the beginning...having a strong electrical background helps.
Looks like you've been trying to diagnose this for over 3 years...maybe time to bring the car to an automotive electrical specialist...you need to use a wiring diagram and start from the beginning...having a strong electrical background helps.
Depends how you look at it I guess. Can’t say youre wrong though.
Things are all good once replaced, and done correctly, but then issues resurface again. I have to believe there’s a reason that fuel pump hot wire kits exist, just seems nuts to have these issues on a stock system.
Going to test the pump tomorrow. It it doesn’t work, I’ll be dropping it off at place close to me that specializes in Vettes. 🤞🏻