Good afternoon.
So I was plagued with the dreaded clutch pedal sticking issues so I ordered a tick master cylinder. Replaced the master cylinder with a tick unit and the pedal to the floor issue remained. I ordered a tick slave cylinder with the speed bleeder, the billet release bearing support and the single continuous line from the master to slave cylinder so I could eliminate the adapter between the two that comes stock. It came with the slave cylinder shims but after a .185 ish reading it was determined I didn't need them. Got everything buttoned up and glad to report I eliminated the clutch to the floor issue however I now have a worse issues. My car grinds going into 1st about 80% of the time. This never occurred before replacing the slave cylinder and started immediately during my first test drive. I've tried quite a few different suggestions to no avail. Ill list relevant specs and list what I've done to resolve it. I'm hoping someone has a suggestion for a resolution. thanks for reading.

I've adjusted the master cylinder link under the dash to be longer and shorter to the point where the clutch button bottoms out on the clutch sensor switch to the clutch only hitting the button enough to engage the switch to start it. either way the issued remained unchanged.
I've bleed the clutch via the speed bleeder per the directions many of times to the point I'm certain there is no air in the system. I bleed it with the tip of the bleeder submerged in the reservoir fluid, not submerged, and pumped the brakes many of time before opening the valve every time. The clutch has no play in it and seems to be nice and stiff the way it should be. Every other gear shifts nice.
I put the car in first gear and revving the engine while depressing the clutch on level ground and noted 0 movement.
I have the car on jack stands now and do not see any leaks.
One thing I noticed is that if I come to a stop, Put the car into first whether it grinds or not, then randomly switch to different gears while revving the car with the clutch depressed if will often grind going back into 1st gear.
I feel like everything is pointing to needing to put a shim behind the slave cylinder or rebuild the trans but obviously not looking to do either o those things. Any and all help is appreciated.

-48k miles 2006 Z06 / T56 Trans.
-tick master and slave cylinder.
-The continuous line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder.
-billet release bearing support
-Tick s

peed bleeder.
-Dot 4 fluid
-Unknown make/model McLeod clutch.

 

At .185" free gap, you need the shim.

Gap should be .130" range so you will have a slight gap as the clutch disc wears out (will decrease the gap over time), and what is going on now, is the slave U seal that drives the TB race, is being pushed out too far, and it catching the end of channel to cause the binding.



As for tick master, larger od and will push more fluid than the oem master, and if not adjusted correctly with 1/2"~3/4" free play at the top of pedal (you use getting into reverse with the car running to correctly adjust it), can push the TB bearing too far forward to over stress.bend the pressure plate fingers when the pressure plate is past its movement range. So if your not getting leakage from the slave from it seal being pushed out too far forward, then back that the problem is the tick master not adjusted correctly (that is if you did not already bend the hell out of the pressure plate fingers from using it with the tick master not adjusted correctly from the start).

Bottom line, drive line needs to come apart, to shim the slave correctly, check the pressure plate fingers to make sure they are not bent to hell, then once back in if you do need to change the clutch from bent pressure plate fingers, adjust the tick master correctly as well.

Also, if you did not heat up the flywheel before installing it, pull that the reinstall it correctly this time around so it does seat all the way to the crank surface correctly, then check your TB to pressure plate fingers free gap again.

 

To add, once you do have the clutch problem worked out, corner balance the car, since its not correct now from the way that you just slammed the car to its lowest ride height settings.

 

Thanks for the reply. I installed the slave cylinder per the directions supplied by tick. The shim kit states a 0.125 to 0.200. Also the clutch is not new, its aftermarket and has been in the car for an unknown mileage. Since you made it relevant for whatever reason, my car is on coil overs and has been professionally aligned.

 

Never said that the car was not aligned, I said the car was not (weight) corner balanced correctly, and can tell this from the distances of the tires to the tips of the fender front and back.

As for free gap, slave does not have much room for seal movement before its pushed too far out to cause it to have problems, so you want about a .130" free gap, since just gives enough room for clutch wear so you still have free gap when the clutch wears out/that gap is reduced.

So again, plenty of center shaft for the TB suport race, but is the shorter outside of channel inner edge that you have to worry about, since the farther the seal is being pushed out on it, the closer you are to it leaking when the master has been adjusting correctly so it not over flexing the pressure plate fingers/the seal being pushed out even farther.