foreward/back quit working. fuse is ok. motor tries to move but gets VERY hot.
took it all apart, nothing binding. both tracks move fine manually.both gear boxes work fine. motor spins over manually. used a drill to spin everything. switch replaced. whats next, control box?

 

Check the power connector to the black box that clips to the bottom of the seat springs. The wires can break just before the plastic connector, and with sheilding still in take, its a hit or miss if it gets power. Hence may get power up to the point that you sit in the seat.

If connector wires are broken, get the replacement connector, solder it in line with heat shrink, and leave the wires as long as possible, to loop forward into the seat springs, instead of short to just break again.



https://www.google.com/search?q=c6+s...id:XsOavZtUolY

As for control box (part that clips to the seat bottom springs, easy enough to pull it board out of the box, to take a look at the header pins for the connectors on the board, which may have a cold solder joint that just needs to be re-soldered. The boards are hot bath soldered, and with the added metal of the header pins, they can end up not getting hot enough during the bath, to not create a good solder joint to the board.


Short of that, need to go up line to the BCM connectors (red one with nut) to pull it with the battery disconector, to clean it and the BCM pins if its a corrosion problem there or at the ground for the seat control box instead.


Note, if this is a flood car, inside of the wires could be corrosion central under the sheilding, and would be replacing a lot of wire to solve that problem.

 

Thank you so much. I'll check it out asap!

 

I'd check the resistance across the motor with an ohmmeter if you have a DVOM...just because the motor spins with a drill doesn't mean it's good...I'd compare it to one of the other motors.