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It sounds like the right side(passenger) of engine. It pre-detonates under load. I tried octane booster. Then 94 octane. The high octane stuff helps, but something is not right. Plus 94 at $7.50 is not what I need to use. Any ideas? What should I look for? I have a tech 2 (china) but am not really knowledgeable about its use. I did notice the bank 1 sensor 1 was all over the place.
It sounds like the right side(passenger) of engine. It pre-detonates under load. I tried octane booster. Then 94 octane. The high octane stuff helps, but something is not right. Plus 94 at $7.50 is not what I need to use. Any ideas? What should I look for? I have a tech 2 (china) but am not really knowledgeable about its use. I did notice the bank 1 sensor 1 was all over the place.
o2 sensor is probably fine since its suppose to operate within 1V, if it just died and stayed at zero it would be an issue. If the throttle position is the only code it has, I bet the throttle body is gummed up and dirty since these engine tend to get oil from the PCV system.
I would just clean the throttle body, clear the codes and see if this fixes it. If the throttle was very dirty, it may idle a little high and you will have to drive it for a bit so it can relearn it's idle values.
It sounds like the right side(passenger) of engine. It pre-detonates under load. I tried octane booster. Then 94 octane. The high octane stuff helps, but something is not right. Plus 94 at $7.50 is not what I need to use. Any ideas? What should I look for? I have a tech 2 (china) but am not really knowledgeable about its use. I did notice the bank 1 sensor 1 was all over the place.
Upstream O2 sensors should oscillate between 200-800mv’s and the downstreams remain fairly steady at 600-700mv’s…under WOT upstreams should go rich above 800mv’s…you can look at that…your MAF sensor at hot unloaded idle should read about 6.0 to 6.3 grams/second…also look at your MAP sensor ignition ON engine off…it should read about 29.9 inches of Mercury if you are at sea level…idle should read about 10 inches of Mercury…as I mentioned in another post you don’t have to remove the TB to clean it…just clean the area where the throttle blade contacts the TB when closed…if you don’t have TB cleaner Brake Kleen will do..a way to tell it may be dirty is look at your TPS %…should be less than 10%…mine after cleaning is around 5-7%.
I cleaned air filter, MAF, and throttle body. I did a fast quick drive and it seems like it solved the issue. Should I run a can of techtron through it? The tank his full of 91 octane and half 94 octane. I'll be trying it with straight 91soon and let you know if the problem returns. Thanks for all the suggestions and help.
I'm back with the same problem. After cleaning TB, MAF, and air c leaner car ran well. The I used no-ethanol 91 octane and the problem returned. If I mix 91 na 94 the problem goes away. (Can't get 93 around here). I didn't remove the TB just cleaned it. Should I remove it to re-clean it?
I'm back with the same problem. After cleaning TB, MAF, and air c leaner car ran well. The I used no-ethanol 91 octane and the problem returned. If I mix 91 na 94 the problem goes away. (Can't get 93 around here). I didn't remove the TB just cleaned it. Should I remove it to re-clean it?
It should be OK as long as you wiped off the back side of the throttle plate, and especially the thin edges. I use a lint free cloth saturated in rubbing alcohol. It works really well.
Is there a reason other than price that you don't just run 94 octane?