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The right side headlight on my ‘11 GS coupe has an intermittent problem. It turns on sometimes, … sometimes not. If I manipulate the switch enough times I may get it to go. Maybe not.
Any thoughts on what the problem may be? Not sure where to start. Thx.
If it is the right lamp only, I doubt it is the recall "low beam ground at fuse box" or the multi-function headlight switch. As either of those would likely affect both sides. I may be wrong. Read up on the recall....If you are handy, I would do the repair myself before taking to a dealer. It is a lifetime recall.
I would check the right light for ground problem or bulb or ballast problem.
If it is the right lamp only, I doubt it is the recall "low beam ground at fuse box" or the multi-function headlight switch. As either of those would likely affect both sides. I may be wrong. Read up on the recall....If you are handy, I would do the repair myself before taking to a dealer. It is a lifetime recall.
I would check the right light for ground problem or bulb or ballast problem.
Thx for this. My problem is only with the R side. Never the L one. Is there a ground in the vicinity of the headlight? I can check it if I knew where to look. Thx again
Thx for this. My problem is only with the R side. Never the L one. Is there a ground in the vicinity of the headlight? I can check it if I knew where to look. Thx again
The ground you're looking for is located on the frame close to where the hood support attaches. One on each side. Always a good idea to check grounds and connectors, but also check the bulb. It's 12 yrs old after all. An intermittent failure to light is typical of an HID bulb on the way out.
The right headlight (along with other components) grounds at (13) G102. See post #7
Not sure about C6 headlights, But in the old days most electrical stuff in a car was always grounded and functioned when power was applied. These days, many car components have constant power and function when a ground is applied. Consider that when doing electrical diagnosis.
Just to rule out a power feed issue to fuse 19 taking a 12 volt test light and with it connected to ground remove the fuse and see if you have power to the fuse terminal closest to the engine…that is the feed side and you can turn the lights on and off and see that it illuminates when the lights are turned on…each side has a separate ground…wiring is for my 08 but should be the same as yours…let me look at the wiring a little closer to see what’s going on.
Does the right high beam work normally ??…G102 is shared between the high and low beams…if high beams are OK it may not be a ground issue but I would still access the headlight connector and check for some bad connections or high resistance.
Start with high beams, to make sure right side is working. If yes, then you know that G103 is fine.
Next, switch back to the low beam and check the light connector for power on yellow/tan white wire, and then ground on black wire on connector. Could be a problem in the mulitiude of connectors here, or could just be a ballast that is going out instead.
And note, without a major load on the wires, may show ground and power, but corrosion on a pin to cause it not to carry enough amperage to fire the ballast to start with (why you may have to turn the lights on and off a few times to get the ballist to fire, and not a ballist that is failing instead..
Note, need to pull up up a better diagram that shows all the connector numbers, since this one is missingconnector numbers to start with; where the wire goes from tan to yellow and back on these connectors.
Start with high beams, to make sure right side is working. If yes, then you know that G103 is fine.
Next, switch back to the low beam and check the light connector for power on yellow/tan white wire, and then ground on black wire on connector. Could be a problem in the mulitiude of connectors here, or could just be a ballast that is going out instead.
And note, without a major load on the wires, may show ground and power, but corrosion on a pin to cause it not to carry enough amperage to fire the ballast to start with (why you may have to turn the lights on and off a few times to get the ballist to fire, and not a ballist that is failing instead..
Note, need to pull up up a better diagram that shows all the connector numbers, since this one is missingconnector numbers to start with; where the wire goes from tan to yellow and back on these connectors.
High beam works fine. The problem is only with low beam.
High beam works fine. The problem is only with low beam.
Then just need to check from the M2 connector in the lower fuse block, through the fuse 19, to the J120 connector on the ground to see if you have a pin corrosion problem,or if its the ballast that needs to be replaced isntead. Hence need to know what connectors the wire from tan to yellow and back to tan is, to check that connectors for corrosion problems as well.
Hell, problem could be as simple as just the fuse 19 U connectors on the upper fuse block for the fuse bent open/slight burn marks, and why your not able to get full amperage out of that fuse. Or could be problem in the lower fuse block for the M2 connector instead. Either female spade connector not fully seated upwards, or broken wire to connector when the low beam recall was done.
Problem is, will need to use a resistor to put the circut under a load if a pin corrosion problems, to confirm that its able to supply the ballistic with the correct amount of amps.
If ballast is getting enough amperage to begin with, and taking a few reties until the ballistic does fire, then starting cap in the ballast going south instead. At $100+ for the ballast, and the fact that it does come apart to replace the starting capacitor for pennies on the board, gets which option I would elect to go if it was the problem.
Problem is, will need to use a resistor to put the circut under a load if a pin corrosion problems, to confirm that its able to supply the ballistic with the correct amount of amps.
If ballast is getting enough amperage to begin with, and taking a few reties until the ballistic does fire, then starting cap in the ballast going south instead. At $100+ for the ballast, and the fact that it does come apart to replace the starting capacitor for pennies on the board, gets which option I would elect to go if it was the problem.
Exactly !!…that is why we use an incandescent test light (only around 300-300ma’s or headlight bulbs of different wattages as below depending on the current flow but not a real resistor is used…the bulb is the substitute load or “resistor”…I’ll have to see how much the low beams draw !!…the ground also needs a 3.5 amp current draw to see if it can carry the current flow back to the battery.
Then just need to check from the M2 connector in the lower fuse block, through the fuse 19, to the J120 connector on the ground to see if you have a pin corrosion problem,or if its the ballast that needs to be replaced isntead. Hence need to know what connectors the wire from tan to yellow and back to tan is, to check that connectors for corrosion problems as well.
Hell, problem could be as simple as just the fuse 19 U connectors on the upper fuse block for the fuse bent open/slight burn marks, and why your not able to get full amperage out of that fuse. Or could be problem in the lower fuse block for the M2 connector instead. Either female spade connector not fully seated upwards, or broken wire to connector when the low beam recall was done.
I’m pretty good with mechanical stuff, but when it comes to electronics & such, changing bulbs & fuses is the extent of my expertise.
So if you can point out the M2 connector, the lower fuse block, fuse 19, the upper fuse block, … & the J120 connector, I could probably check them out.
But for a $100, I’m inclined to just replace the ballast & see if that solves the problem.
I would just as a minimum check the feed before replacing the ballast but you can do whatever you like…if you can get a 40 watt bulb and connect to the feed side of the fuse and ground and if it lights up bright like below you are golden !!..and don’t feel bad…I’ve been in some electrical training classes years ago and guys with 20 years in the industry couldn’t diagnose this.
So if you can point out the M2 connector, the lower fuse block, fuse 19, the upper fuse block, … & the J120 connector, I could probably check them out.
But for a $100, I’m inclined to just replace the ballast & see if that solves the problem.
Using this,
M3 connector is in tthe lower fuse box block, and will have two wires connect to the single female space that the upper fuse box spade connects to, so could be this wire to the female connector broken in the sheilding when they where doing the low beam recall wiring work.
Headlight question.
