When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a manual 2005 that won’t start. Had the starter tested and it’s fine. New red optima battery with a tender on. First no start was in the heat for an hour, pushed it and jumped it- started fine by dropping into second. Same thing next day, couldn’t get it to jump this time. Put jumper cables on for 10 min, then pushed and jumped to start it.
Now it won’t start and has a check engine light- no codes come up on the reader. Any easy fuses or anything to start with?
Thanks!
Do you have a 12 volt incandescent (with a bulb) test light and some wire that you can make a jumper wire similar to below ??…if so we can do a few checks on the crank relay first…let us know…we can also check your block ground with the test light…a cheap code reader you will see only DTC’s in the ECM and strange the MIL is illuminated with no codes.
Do you have a 12 volt incandescent (with a bulb) test light and some wire that you can make a jumper wire similar to below ??…if so we can do a few checks on the crank relay first…let us know…we can also check your block ground with the test light…a cheap code reader you will see only DTC’s in the ECM and strange the MIL is illuminated with no codes.
I do not have that tool. Will a multimeter work at all? Otherwise I could go get that. Also, I read that if you can turn the tightened negative cable, that may be a problem- I can turn mine a bit. Thanks for the quick reply.
Incandescent test light is better…if you do any type of electrical maintenance on the car and you WILL in the future you should have one in your arsenal…if you have the OEM battery terminals get rid of them…I replaced mine last month…you can get these Duralast below at Auto Zone…I’d turn it if you can get it a little tighter and I was going to have you check the engine block ground with the test light…if you have jumper cables hook up one end to battery negative and the other end to a clean spot on the engine block…basically we are creating an alternate ground path from the engine block to battery negative…doesn’t matter if you use the red or black jumper leads…now see if the engine starts…as far as the test light if the end is thick you don’t want to shove it into the relay terminal and risk spreading the terminal…good to use t pins or back probes…do you hear the starter solenoid click when attempting to start it ??
If you have a test light now you will have to check the crank relay for function…do you hear a “click” from the crank relay when attempting to start or from the starter solenoid ??…you can try swapping it with another relay such as the defogger relay which is next to it…not a good idea to be jumping around checking different things… you have to have a whole diagnostic “process” to quickly and accurately diagnose this starting at the battery and working down to the starter…if you made a jumper you could have jumped 2 terminals at the crank relay and there may have been no need to remove the starter and have it tested if the starter worked…having a better scan tool would have been good to use to check various inputs to check the starting circuit.
2005 Manual Won’t Start
