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I push the ignition button but the car continues to run for 30 seconds or so. Brand new battery, ignition switch and alternator. Any ideas on what is causing the issue? Is the ignition switch grounded somewhere and where? Hoping this might be causing the continued problem of “Service Traction Control” issue.
One of our members was experiencing the same thing last month but haven’t heard back if he had it resolved…is this something you want to diagnose yourself or you are taking it to a shop and just want to know what “it can be” ??…if you have a 12 volt test light and a DVOM that would be all you would need...can you fill out your profile so we know what we are dealing with...don't see ANYTHING in your profile.
I’m trying to solve the issue myself as I wait to take the car to a local Vette expert for a Service Traction Control issue. The car will drive just fine and after parking, the car losses all gauges, AC, etc. Then as I limp it home it may or may not just return to normal operation. I just finished cleaning the ground contacts under the battery and it ran great afterwards. Then the following day upon starting - all the issues returned.
Well as I mentioned if you have a 12 volt test light and a DVOM I can give you some guidance and if you feel this may be over your head I’d let your Corvette expert try to diagnose it along with your TC issue…so is the car still running after shutdown…you’re saying now the car loses all gauges etc…those grounds have nothing to do with your issues BTW.
I do have a 12v test light and use Blue Driver to access the codes. I can run the codes this morning and send to you if you are willing to take a look.
You will most likely not have any codes concerning your shut down issue…testing will revolve around your testing of Powertrain Ignition1 Relay #44…if you remove that relay if still having shut down issues the car should shut down and not continue to run…try swapping that relay with the Rear Defogger Relay #40 and see if resolves your shutdown issue…you may have a short to ground on the wire that provides a ground for the coil side of the relay keeping the relay constantly energized or a bad ECM being a bad driver in that ground circuit…wouldn’t worry about your TC issue right now…don’t know if that Blue Driver will show any codes from the EBCM.
First thing what year car is this ??…A/T or M/T ??…remove Powertrain Relay #44 and probe terminal 86 which is closest to the fender and the windshield with test light connected to battery POSITIVE…light should NOT illuminate…if light illuminates either short to ground on the ground wire which is controlled by the engine computer or failed computer driver…I’ll have to research what else may be telling the ECM to ground terminal 86….with test light connected to ground see if the test light illuminates when probing fuses 6, 9, 12, 14 or 16…those fused should NOT be hot with car off…pulling Powertrain Relay should cause the car to shut down and not run for 15 seconds…our member with this same issue also had a P1682.
The car is an ‘05, A/T with no modifications other than aftermarket radio and mid-range exhaust. 48k miles. I tested the fuses and relays and all appeared to be correct. I started the car and noticed the hood service light would pulsate as I revved the motor. Afterwards
(again after taking 20 secs to turn off) I disconnected the battery to reinstall the support bracket and now it wouldn’t start! Argh. The battery is fully charged.
The car is an ‘05, A/T with no modifications other than aftermarket radio and mid-range exhaust. 48k miles. I tested the fuses and relays and all appeared to be correct. I started the car and noticed the hood service light would pulsate as I revved the motor. Afterwards
(again after taking 20 secs to turn off) I disconnected the battery to reinstall the support bracket and now it wouldn’t start! Argh. The battery is fully charged.
How were the relays and fuses checked ??…I just want to make sure you’re checking them correctly….what did you see on terminal 86 on the Powertrain Relay ??..if you remove the Powertrain Relay and slowly reinstall it do you hear it click ??
Since my tester was too big to make contact, I used a 2” long Tee pin to access the contacts. With the clip of the tester on the positive, I touched the pin with the tester. My question is, was the car suppose to energized? I did the test with the car shutdown (not in the accessory or ready to start mode). I didn’t really feel a click when I inserted the relays, more of a gentle building of resistance as the relay slid into the contacts.
Since my tester was too big to make contact, I used a 2” long Tee pin to access the contacts. With the clip of the tester on the positive, I touched the pin with the tester. My question is, was the car suppose to energized? I did the test with the car shutdown (not in the accessory or ready to start mode). I didn’t really feel a click when I inserted the relays, more of a gentle building of resistance as the relay slid into the contacts.
With the test light connected to battery POSITIVE if you touch the tip to pin 86 which is closest to the windshield and fender the test light should NOT light...you do the test test with the car shutdown…are you familiar with how relays operate ??…what you are checking is F14 in the diagram…if the Ignition 1 Relay Control at the ECM were to “stick closed”
that test light would illuminate or if it were shorted to ground somewhere between the ECM and the relay also…if the relay were energized closed with the car shutdown all those fuses below the relay would be “hot” with the car off…they should NOT be…you can test those with the test light connected to ground
I used the exact location to test. With the tester on POS and the car was off. The light did NOT light. I ordered a new relay just to see if perhaps it has gone bad. I have not tried starting the car today, to many other chores but will see if it starts tonight. Crazy thought but, I have a long gravel driveway, any area on the car that might be vulnerable to rock damage, exposed wire or sensors?
I used the exact location to test. With the tester on POS and the car was off. The light did NOT light. I ordered a new relay just to see if perhaps it has gone bad. I have not tried starting the car today, to many other chores but will see if it starts tonight. Crazy thought but, I have a long gravel driveway, any area on the car that might be vulnerable to rock damage, exposed wire or sensors?
You said you swapped relays and no difference…it’s not the relay so don’t waste your money.
I’ve been reading up on the issue. I have a telescoping steering wheel which supposedly had Traction Control implications. I’m going to see if I can find the connection and clean the contacts.
I’ve been reading up on the issue. I have a telescoping steering wheel which supposedly had Traction Control implications. I’m going to see if I can find the connection and clean the contacts.
Your traction control issues will not cause your shutdown issue.