My 2006 has 56,000 miles on it and a new battery. I've been having sporadic starting problems over the last month or so. About 25% of the time when I press on the start button, the engine will not turn over, but just produces a clicking noise. I then press on the accelerator and it starts right up. It normally does this from a cold start. For example, I'll drive the car for 30 min - an hr, then park it for 15-30 min, and when I try to start it, it just clicks until I press on the accelerator. The fuel pump is OK with sufficient pressure. The mechanics say they can't do anything until they can replicate the symptoms. Sometimes (< 10% of the time) it will do this 1st thing in the morning in my garage. Any suggestions/comments/questions from anybody ? I'm afraid I'm going to get stranded somewhere.. Thanks ! Reggie Johnson

 

You didn't specify Manual orAuto. I'm assuming that they have checked the connectors at the starter solenoid, as there has been issues associated with the connectors on the solenoid seperating. It could be the brake switch or clutch switch out of alignment. The accelerator pedal should not have any bearing on the start circuit as per the 2006 starting circuit.
Good Luck with the issue.

 

Well that's good that you're hearing the "clicking or crackling" sounds which are coming from your RCDLR which is part of the immobilizer system and is inside of the dash...FIRST thing is get your battery load tested even if new at your local auto parts store...do you hear the starter solenoid click ??...that is just one click...may be a bad block ground where the negative battery cable goes to the engine block...do you have a 12 volt test light ??...if not take your jumper cables and attach one end to battery negative and the other end to a clean spot on the engine block...now see if the car starts...don't know how mechanically inclined you are but we can do a few things at the crank relay #43...how about swapping it with the rear defogger relay which is right next to it and now see if it starts better...if you had a jumper wire we can "jump" the load side of the crank relay and see if the starter cranks consistently...that circuit when jumped draws about 8 amps so I'd use a little heavier wire like 14 gauge...you can make something similar below to do this...you would have to find something about the width and thickness as the relay blade to insert into terminals 30 and 87 of the relay....pressing the accelerator down shouldn't make the engine start but if you push the pedal down to the floor while pushing the start button the car will crank but not start...you cut out the fuel injectors by doing this...did you change your throttle body recently ??…and PLEASE fill out your profile…model year, mods, tune, A/T or M/T…things sometimes change on these cars every model year !!

 

It has a 6-speed transmission.

 

The dealer serviced the throttle body (it was dirty) and re-set the throttle compensation, thinking this was causing the problem. It still did it afterwards.

 

Dealers are very poor at diagnosing cars so that is the last place you should take it for that…cleaning the TB wouldn’t cause a no start…if they thought that they’re IDIOTS !!…if this is something that may be over your head I’d find a DIAGNOSTIC SHOP in your area.

 

Check the clutch pedal sensor at the floor board, since it may be going out, or corrosion on the pedal sensor connector that just needs to be cleaned up
[img]mhttps://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/attachments/c6-tech-performance/47728606d1372598699-clutch-pedal-not-returning-to-original-position-spring-002.jpg[/img]

So on that note, would just start by disconnecting the bottom sensor connector (as well as the accelerate pedal sensor for good measure), use some spray electrical cleaner to clean the connectors and socket pins, and see if that solves the problem.
If no, then next time you have the start problem, don't touch the accelerator pedal, but release the clutch and give it a good stomp all the way down to really press the clutch pedal fire wall sensor down hard, to see if that allows the car to start. If it does, the just replace the clutch pedal sensor.

Hence up to 2007, clutch pedal has two sensors, one on the bottom floor board for pedal all the way down (which is needed for BCM to start the car) and one on the top to kick the Cruse out if you touch the pedal to press it down at all. So its the bottom clutch pedal sensor that I will bank is giving you problems and it not that you have to touch the accelerator pedal, but just shifting to do so, is allowing a connector correction problem, or slight amount more presses on the switch to get it show continuity instead.

Note, in 2008, GM did away with the two sensor switches on the clutch pedal, and just added in a Brake pedal type sensor to the clutch pedal, that did require a CPS learn to the car to start with, or relearn if the sensor did start to wear instead. Hence it has ohm readings that is slightly different for each senor, and the learn thing was to teach the BMC the two different ohm readings for each position. I bring this up, since your clutch sensors do not require a learn to start with, so don't get dragged down this rabbit hole for your car.
Note, does have the single BPS, but that is a different rabbit hole, and its problem when worn or about to go out, brake lights will not come on isntead.

 

I have been having a similar problem with my base 06 Vert M6 in starting up. In my case, I push the start button and all the dash gauges swing over and back but nothing on the engine start. This will happen 3-4 times ....then finally I will get the starter to kick over the engine and she fires right up. I have the car in reverse, the parking brake on and the clutch all the way in and I even have had the brake depressed and still got the NO start but all the gauges flipping over. Maybe something similar to the OP's problem? New Battery in the car also.

 

The fastest way to check your clutch switch is remove crank relay #43....with a 12 volt test light connected to a good ground probe terminal 86 (86 is closet to you and to the windshield) which is coil side feed...when starting if run crank relay is being energized the light will illuminate if the clutch switch is good...don't shove the test light inside the fuse box...use a safety pin or something like that...you DON'T want to spread the terminal apart or you will have issues down the road…wiring for your 06 below.

 

Probably similar...I would probably just follow along with this post !!...do you hear the starter solenoid click ??...retired Part 121 ????...EX Con/ United ??

 

121 PAN AM, 135 various on-demand & freight, 91 corporate

No on the solenoid click

 

Do you have a 12 volt test light ??…you may also fashion a jumper wire as in the other thread…try swapping the crank relay with the relay next to it…should be the defogger relay…see what happens….as in the other post we want to check the circuit from the run crank relay through the clutch switch and then to terminal 86 on the crank relay when attempting to start…86 is closest to fender and closest to windshield…if circuit is good down to the crank relay the relay should “click”.